Truth In Aging

2

November 21st, 2008

Posted by claire

Peter Thomas Roth's Anti-Aging Cleansing Gel ($35, 8 fl. oz)

So, how does Peter Thomas Roth's formula stack up against other anti-aging cleansers?  Well, it's peachy keen (and I mean that literally, with peach extract lending
its part to both the formula's smell and coloring), but sadly with a
few bad fruits that possibly will ruin the basket.  (How's that for an
overly-extended metaphor?)

What's nice about it is that it's an
oil-free gel that lathers up into a good foam, thanks to the
high-lathering ammonium laureth/laurel sulfates.  And will work well to
lighten and refine your skin, in addition to being a decent anti-acne,
anti-aging and anti-wrinkle formula.  However, I wouldn't recommend
this for people with sensitive skin. But more on that later.

There are a few anti-aging ingredients in this formula. The acids are glycolic, salicylic acid and arginine.

Glycolic acid
(source: sugar cane), is an alpha hydroxy acid with proven
skin-rejuvenating properties that increases exfoliation and has a
positive effect on the skin’s ability to hold moisture. The key is to
look for formulas with a 5-10% concentration, leaving it on
your skin for at least a minute to be effective. I have a sneaking
suspicion that this formula falls below this range since the line's
other glycolic acid-specific cleanser has levels at the 3% range.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that causes shedding of
the outer layer of skin, preventing pores from clogging up, and
allowing room for new cell growth.

When you add to this the amino acid L-arginine,
which Columbia University calls the "magic bullet" in human health and
"one of the potent nutraceuticals ever discovered", you've got a nice
combination for deep pore resurfacing with increased cell turnover, all
helping to diminish the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and other
signs of aging.

Other notables in the formula include white oak bark extract, an astringent, antiseptic and diuretic that will help tone and strengthen the skin; calming linden extract; soothing panthenol; and brightening citrus extracts and bioflavonoids. Then there is allantoin:
current studies show that it is an anti-irritant and skin-soother,
although there is little evidence to back up its anti-aging claims.

Unfortunately, there are some things to be avoided. Quaternium-15 is a
widely used preservative that acts as a formaldehyde
releaser. So if you're allergic to formaldehyde, you probably will be
allergic to quaternium-15.

Yellow #5,
or tartrazine, is banned in Norway and was banned in
Austria and Germany, before European Parliament and Council Directive
94/36/EC lifted the ban. Still, studies have shown that synthetic
colors such as this (as well as red #4 and blue #1, not present in this
formula) come from coal tar that deposits toxins onto the skin,
causing skin irritation.

While less notable than those listed
above, it's still worth calling out the presence of methylparaben,
propylene glycol (anti-freeze), and cocamide DEA. The latter of which
can lead to formation of nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic,
according to a study on rats. However, I must point out that the CIR
Expert Panel concluded that Cocamide DEA was safe as used in rinse-off
products (such as this) and safe at concentrations of less than or
equal to 10% in leave-on products.

Ingredients:

Water,
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl
Betaine, Cocamide DEA, Cetyl Polyglucoside, Propylene Glycol, Glycolic
Acid, Arginine, Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid), Peach Extract,
White Oak Bark Extract, Lemon Extract, Lime Extract, Linden Flower
Extract, Grapefruit Extract, Allantoin, Panthenol, Citrus
Bioflavonoids, Methylparaben, Red #40, Yellow #5, Fragrance,
Quaternium-15.

Related posts:

What is it? Preservatives and parabens and are they safe?

What is it: FD&C dye