Beautisol 99% Pure Peptide Serum exceeds expectations

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I am typically wary of brands that stray too far outside their core competency. Actresses have no business venturing into singing, just as fashion houses don’t belong in the world of cosmetics. Take Chanel, for instance. Though I have long been an admirer of Chanel’s fashion and makeup, I was utterly underwhelmed by the brand’s attempt at skin care - Sublimage Essential Regenerating Cream (at $350 for 1.7 oz). Beautisol is one of the rare exceptions to this rule.

Beautisol started as a sunless tanning company just last year. The line was founded by Sinead Norenius, a licensed aesthetician with a background as Director of Education for St. Tropez Tan and author of a blog about all things sunless. Up until recently, the only products in the line were self-tanning lotions of varying shades and exfoliators to prep the skin for a smooth tan. Forever on a mission for an authentic-looking glow to return me to my Florida roots, I tried out Beautisol’s All-Seasons Glow, a gradual tanning lotion. It has become my new favorite for getting a paraben-free, funky odor-free, natural tan. But when I saw that Beautisol was attempting to break into the anti-aging category, I grumbled that self-tanning expertise does not lend itself to an understanding of effective skin care.

After my three week trial, I stand corrected. It seems that the secret to making such a leap is to start small so that there is plenty of space for fine-tuning. Beautisol added just three products to its anti-aging line-up, which includes Eye Want cream, Bright Eyed mousse, and 99% Pure Peptide serum. While the eye products look promising with their mix of peptides, antioxidants, and nourishing oils, my curiosity was mostly piqued by the 99% Pure Peptide serum. Claimed to be the newest and most advanced anti-aging and sun damage reversal product on the market, this serum certainly has its marketing pitch down. Does it pack a big enough punch to justify its $120 price tag?

For starters, it contains the most cutting-edge peptides available, and the most I’ve seen in a single product - eight in all. As a bit of background on peptides, the skin is composed mostly of collagen, which contains long chains of amino acids strung together. Short segments of three to five amino acids are what make up peptides, and these active molecules aid in communication within the cells. Topical peptides were engineered to regulate skin functions that have deteriorated with age, thus restoring youthful cellular communication. Clinical trials both in vitro lab tests and with human subjects have born out the theory that they work, though some synthetic peptides have been more empirically proven than others.

So now you know what all the fuss is about when peptides are put into a skincare product. Beautisol’s serum boasts the same peptides present in YNS Medspa Intensive Peptide Complex Radiance, except there are many more of them. A few of the peptides are so uncommon that they didn’t even make an appearance in Marta’s cosmetic peptides round-up. The first one, hexapeptide-11 (under the trade name Peptamide 6), which makes up 24% of the total 99% peptide content in the serum, is said to have firming, brightening, and protective properties. At 20%, Matrixyl 3000, a mash-up of palmitoyl-tripeptide and palmitoyl-oligopeptide, works by stimulating the matrix molecules in the skin. As one of the most reliably potent peptides available in cosmetics, Matrixyl 3000 demonstrated a 33% decrease in wrinkle density and 20% decrease in depth in clinical trials. It tied with Syn-tacks for a slot on our Five Best anti-aging ingredients list.

Next up, at 15% of the total 99%, is palmitoyl tripeptide-5 (SYN-COLL), otherwise known as synthetic collagen. In vitro studies showed SYN-COLL to increase collagen synthesis by 119%, and an 84-day study by Pentapharm found that it significantly reduced irregularities and wrinkle depth. Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline) works through neuro-transmitters to relax facial muscles from contracting, which is ultimately what causes wrinkles. Leuphasyl and SNAP-8, each accounting for 10% of the peptide content, are known to deter the degeneration of collagen and elastin, as well as lessen the appearance of wrinkles.

The final two peptides each come in at 5%. Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatin-5) is a rather new skin lightening peptide that blocks the hormone which signals the production of melanin, thus preventing and lightening pigmentation. It is being reviewed as a hydroquinone alternative. Lastly, Aldenine, a combination of tripeptide-1, soy and wheat proteins, and xanthan gum, detoxifies cells by scavenging free radicals and protects collagen. The concentrations of the peptides are important, and each percentage in the 99% Pure Peptide Serum exceeds the minimum amount required for effective results.

Despite my initial misgivings about getting anti-aging care from a sunless tanning company, I couldn’t be more pleased with Beautisol’s serum. A great deal of thought clearly went into developing this formula. Each peptide serves an important purpose in the battle against premature aging and wrinkling and their cumulative effect is remarkable. After three weeks of testing the serum, my complexion looks smoother, my skin plumper, and my fine lines less noticeable. It is quite hydrating as far as serums go and plays nicely with my moisturizer and makeup. Beautisol, I owe you an apology for being a Scrooge.

Ingredients in 99% Pure Peptide Serum: Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hexapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Pentapeptide-18, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate (L), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemongrass) Oil*, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Dextran, Xanthan Gum

  • Marta says:

    Copley, this looks really interesting. But you are somewhat younger than me... do you think my 51 year old skin would get the same results?

    Posted on December 20, 2010 at 8:29 am

  • talia says:

    How can it possibly be 99% peptides? It's first ingredient (presumably has the highest concentration) is water.

    Posted on December 20, 2010 at 1:07 pm

  • Copley says:

    The Before & After photos on Beautisol's website (http://www.beautisol.com/BAAntiAging.aspx) show the effects of the 99% Pure Peptide serum on a 40-something woman and the eye products on a 60-something woman. I can't vouch for the effectiveness of the eye cream/mousse, but the serum made me a believer in the power of peptides. I think that no matter your age, fine lines and skin discoloration will diminish after at least a month of using the serum. However, don't expect miracles for deep-set wrinkles and sagging skin.

    Posted on December 20, 2010 at 1:41 pm

  • I just ordered this serum-your review makes so much sense to me! I have been using their self-tanner because of your review & will never use another self-tanner-it is divine! so hoping for the same with this serum!
    BTW-if you choose autoship-the price drops to $105 & you can cancel anytime!

    Posted on December 20, 2010 at 2:11 pm

  • Hi!
    I am new to your group and I'm a 55 year-old very active cancer-survivor. In 2007 I was given a prognosis of 6-8 months to live. I received high-dose chemotherapy and the reason I am telling you this is because of the damage the chemotherapy did to my facial skin.

    3 months after treatment was over, I hardly recognized myself and looked 10 years older with prominent mouth lines, sagging skin, deep wrinkles, etc.

    When I read about these products, I contacted the company and they very promptly sent me samples of both eye creams and the 99% peptide serum. I want to tell you about what I am seeing after only 2 1/2 weeks of use.

    WOW! I'm really amazed! I can't believe what I am seeing. Friends and family keep telling me how great I look. Folks, I was considering Botox and Juverderm but now, after only using a small amount of all 3 of these products, believe I won't have to go that route now.

    I still can't believe what I am seeing! My deep wrinkles have diminished considerably around my mouth and the dark circles have lightened a little bit but what is amazing is the serum and what it has done to those awful deep wrinkles and compromised, damaged skin.

    I am writing to the company to tell them about my results but also wanted to inform folks here about this wonderful product.

    There is nothing better than amazing results and I am here to tell you that the serum works. Thank you TIA and Copley for writing about these new products. Now I can look at myself in the mirror and not cringe!

    Thanks again to everyone here for all the research that is provided. I have definitely benefited. Thanks again!

    Posted on January 6, 2011 at 1:01 pm

  • JMW912 says:

    WOW - this product (alsmost) sounds too good to be true! I am 56 and though I am told I don't look it, I'd sure like to keep it that. Am willing to try it on aging skin and review for you. thx for the great website!

    Posted on January 12, 2011 at 11:14 am

  • The Prototype #37-C Story: the website says it
    has 99% peptide concentration and not real pricey. Do you know anything about this product? Also, Juvaderm is expensive fller. Do you know of anything coming up as a filler that is cheaperand good?

    Posted on January 12, 2011 at 3:18 pm

  • marta says:

    Hi Susanne, we have written about Prototype #37 - in short, it doesn't add up. You can read about it here: http://truthinaging.com/face/peptide-packed-prototype-37-who%E2%80%99s-counting

    I don't know of any alternatives to Juvaderm. Perhaps there are readers out there who can help?

    Posted on January 13, 2011 at 5:45 am

  • Susan says:

    Really like your in-depth review, Copley. You've made a believer out of me. :-)
    Does the 99% refer to the peptides being 99% of the ingredients, sans the water? (I'm a bit dense tonight, I guess)

    Susanne-Currently there are no low-cost fillers on the market. Developers of new products are aiming research more for longer lasting fillers rather than lower cost ones. However, due to the present economy, many derm and surgery offices are offering discount specials, and the makers of Juvederm, Restylane and Perlane offer great discounts on occasion (Medicis (sp?), maker of Restylane and Perlane just ended one.) You could always check with various offices or clinics. :-)

    Marta-You may be 51, but your skin is 35!!! :-)

    Posted on January 14, 2011 at 4:34 pm

  • Can anyone tell me if the Beautisol self tanner is wheat and gluten free. I have gluen and would like to purchase if it dosen't contain those products

    Posted on April 12, 2012 at 8:50 am

  • Marta says:

    Hi Beverly, please see our review of the self-tanner with the full ingredients list.
    There is no gluten and it can be purchased here: http://www.truthinaging.com/beautisol-need-i-glow-more-self-tanner-45-ml

    Posted on April 12, 2012 at 9:11 am

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