Over the counter retinol creams
Vitamin A itself does not have a direct effect on skin, but is only effective after specialized enzymes in the skin cells convert Vitamin A into retinoic acid (tretinoin). Retinoic acid facilitates communication between cells, encouraging aging cells to continue their renewal process, and regenerate collagen and elastin to prevent the appearance of aging skin, wrinkles and fine lines. It is also effective at producing new, healthy skin cells to replace skin previously damaged by acne. However, Retinol cannot communicate with a cell until it has been broken down into Retinoic Acid (SmartSkinCare.com and RetinolSkincare.org). Once this breakdown has occurred, communication begins and the cells’ turnover rate increases, increasing the production of collagen at a higher rate.
I personally don't use retinol creams since I have extremely sensitive skin and I am not a believer in deep exfoliation because there is a limit to the number of times our skin cells will renew themselves (it is called the Hayflick Limit). Still, I know that they are efficient at removing photodamaged skin and so for those who want to try a retinol cream without getting one that is prescription strength, I have put together a selection that look fairly good. One thing to note about retinol creams is that the people that make them seem to assume that the users are so hooked on results that they don't care about what else is in their potion. It took quite a bit of rummaging around to find ones that don't do too much evil.
Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 10X ($56) wisely keeps everything else stripped to the bare minimum. Hyaluronic acid will help with moisture retention and caffeine and green tea provide the antioxidants. Amongst a lot of frogs, this is probably the most princelike of them all.
Yellow Rose Organic Retinol Body Cream ($28). This body cream has retinyl palmitate. Retinyl is the ester of retinol (vitamin A) and it is combined with palmitic acid, which is a saturated fatty acid that is found in humans, animals and plants and is (as the name implies) a major component of palm oil. Although it isn't, strictly speaking, retinol, retinyl palmitate is easily absorbed by the skin and once it is there is converted into retinol. It is gentler than applying retinol directly and, therefore, a better option for those of sensitive skin. On the other hand, it isn't going to have the exfoliation effect of a retinoic acid (such as tretinoin, the active ingredient in prescription Retin-A creams) and will not stimulate cell turnover in the same dramatic way. There are studies, however, that show that retinyl palmitate plumps the skin and increases collagen production.
PCA Skin Retinol Renewal ($88). In addition to retinol, this has vigna aconitifolia seed extract. This is commonly known as moth bean and L'Oreal calls it 'fibroplastyl'. Whatever name it goes by, it is a proven antioxidant. I also like the vitamin E and superoxide dismutase, an antioxidant that is naturally found in the body.
Pevonia Power Youthful Lip Retinol ($44.50). A retinol cream aimed specifically at the lip area. I would like it a lot better without the potentially toxic preservative phenoxyethanol.
Therapy Systems Topical A ($62). Another mercifully simple potion that not only majors on retinol/vitamin A, but has microencapsulated it, presumably for better absorption.
Glotherapeutics gloRetinol CS ($50) is a favorite with several Truth In Aging community members. It has 3% retinol and 5% glycolic acid.. However, recent research has discovered that glycolic acid negates the effects of retinol, plus the two together could be irritating for sensitive skins.
Don't overdo any retinol cream. Although it has many proven benefits, the Cosmetics Database rates retinol as a moderate hazard ingredient. It warns of potential side effects including cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity, violations, restrictions and warnings, cellular level changes, and organ system toxicity. Retinol has been shown to produces excess reactive oxygen species that can interfere with cellular signaling, cause mutations, lead to cell death,
Ingredients in Glotherapeutics gloRetinol CS
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Aqua (Water), Alcohol Denat. (Ethanol), Glycolic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Daucus Carota Sative (Carrot) Root Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus Indica Flower Extract, Retinol, Gallic Acid, Phyllantus Emblica (Amla) Fruit Extract, L-carnosine, Niacinamide, Spin Trap (Phenyl Butyl Nitrone), Daucus Carota Sative (Carrot) Seed Oil, Morus Alba (Mulberry) Bark Extract, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients in PCA
Water/Aqua/Eau, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glycerin, Polyacrylate-13, Retinol, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Tocotrienols, Sodium Ascorbate, Squalane, Superoxide Dismutase, Panthenol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Phytosterols, Lecithin, Sodium Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 20, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol.
Ingredients in Therapy Systems
Water/Aqua, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Vitamin A/Microencapsulated Retinol, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethicone Copolyol, Benzyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether Distearate, Sorbic Acid, BHT, Disodium EDTA
Ingredients in Yellow Rose
Purified Water,*Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Aloe), *Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower Oil), Glyceryl Stearate, Kosher Vegetable Glycerin, Octyl Palmitate, *Cocos Nucifera (Coconut Oil), Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa Butter), Cetyl Alcohol, *Beeswax, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), *Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Oil), Tromethamine Stearate, Calophyllum Tacamahaca (Tamanu Oil), *Borago Officinalis (Borage Oil), *Linum Usitatissimum (Flax Seed Oil), *Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose Oil), *Rosa Canina (Rose Hip Oil), Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Allantoin, *Arnica Montana (Arnica), *Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender), *Calendula Officinalis (Calendula), *Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile), Grapeseed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia (Macadamia Nut Oil), Sodium Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Ethyl Hexyl Glycerine, Essential Oil Natural Fragrance Blend *Certified Organic by Oregon Tilth or USDA 99% Natural/70% Organic
Ingredients in Replenix ($56)
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cyclomethicone, PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone, Caffeine, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Polyphenols, Retinol, Polysorbate-20, Purified Water, Hyaluronic Acid
Ingredients in Pevonia ($44.50)
Water (Aqua), Retinol (Sphérulites), Glycerin, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Capryl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate
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I've used Green Cream for a number of years and I think it's really made a difference.
Posted on January 12, 2010 at 6:12 am
Marta
I have a question about retinol.I had started using Skin Medica, Tri Retinol complex in the PM, and also use 10% vitamin C serum by Obagi in the AM.I now have a constant flaking and I am contemplating stop using the products. I did order the Aurora and the Reluma, and just got them a few days ago. I want to know your take on using these products. I have sensitive skin and my face was literally a mess when I first started using the retinol and c but now it is so flaky I cannot tell what it is. Any help would be appreciated. I want to get the most out of the Reluma and Aurora.
Posted on March 26, 2011 at 5:33 am
Hi Gloria, I am not a fan of retinol based products at all. They are very drying and you are exacerbating that with the vitamin C. Retinol is a harsh exfoliator - if you can bear to go through the process, your skin will look better initally, but after prolonged use (of constant exfoliation) your skin will become thin and dull. You can read more about retinols in our background articles. As you will see, there are concerns about toxicity:
http://truthinaging.com/ingredients/retinol
Personally, I would ditch the Tri Retinol and stick with ReLuma (possibly with a light moisturizer over it - I am using YBF's Restore).
Posted on March 26, 2011 at 9:43 am
Thank you Marta. I will try that. I have learned so much from your website about the toxins in certain products. I do have very sensitive skin and I definitely love the Reluma. The fact that a little goes a long way is awesome. I did use the Skin Media TNS Essential Serum for a while, but the $250 price tag is just too much for the amount you get. I also have the Aurora. How many times a week should I be using it? Is it okay for daily use? Thank you and everyone who contributes to this awesome website!
Posted on March 27, 2011 at 6:37 am
I also recently stopped using my Retinol product, so this is very reassuring information ~ Thank You Marta and Gloria for the comments ~ I think with my regular Clarisonic brushing I will forgo all Retinols and after reading the article you highlighted...well I guess I'll use the rest of the bottle on my elbows and knees. ;-)
Posted on March 27, 2011 at 11:03 am
Hello Marta, I've been intensely following this website recently since I'm literally obsessed over skincare and have read many of your columns. I have noticed on a few occasions, that you mentioned that retinol thins the skin over time. How did you arrive at this conclusion? I'm asking because any dermatologist/bio-chemist would disagree. On a very basic level, metaphorically stating that excessive deep exfoliation would lead to thinning is scientifically incorrect since the skin is a dynamic organ, reactive just like the heart, lungs etc. Exfoliation essentially is superficially damaging the skin, which causes the skin to react by strengthening itself via producing more collagen, which in turn firms and thickens the skin. Aerobic exercise forces the heart to work harder, superficially damaging it, therefor reacting by strengthening itself, hence why exercise is beneficial. To state that excessive exfoliation leads to skin thinning would basically be stating that aerobics is bad for the heart. Additionally, I'm interested in your findings since a couple good friends of mine are aestheticians here in NYC and ALL of them have been trained to make the same comments to their clients by the skincare lines that their spas carry, specifically the ones that tout and promote peptides. I won't mention names but 3 lines that are all based on peptides, not retinol include in their training seminars they hold at stores/spas that carry their lines SPECIFICALLY state to mention your thinning statement, which IMO is one of the attributes of the war of peptides vs retinol.
Sorry for the long post but your columns consist of very strong scientific data so I am very curious about this. Thanks!
Posted on April 7, 2011 at 7:07 pm