Brazilian and Japanese hair straightening - the dangers
Silky smooth hair has been sought after for years, so it's no surprise that people from Japan and Brazil have come up with their own ways to more permanently iron out frizzy tresses. But in the world of hair straightening and relaxing, what is effective and safe?
Japanese hair straighteners are permanent. In fact, they work on breaking and rearranging the internal bonds of hair so that when the process is complete, your hair is permanently straightened out. A chemical by the name of thioglycolate is usually used for this thermal process; it will break the cystine proteins which are present in the cortex layer of the hair shaft. Once those are broken down, hair can be any desired shape.
However, this also means that the new growth will be your original curly hair, and that growing out process will be a lot like having to upkeep highlights. A head of half-curly half-stick straight hair doesn't sound very appealing. Plus, this process could be damaging if the chemicals are left on too long, and that damage to hair is irreversible. Many say that after several treatments the luster of your hair is affected, too.
The Brazilian alternative has been controversial for its own set of reasons. Though the process requires an application of active keratin, a protein found in the top layer of our skin and hair that makes it strong, it also is often used in conjunction with formaldehyde to see semi-permanent straightening results. The formula is sealed into the hair using heat. Some experts say it is likely that the formaldehyde chemicals break hair's disulfide bonds and change its shape. And in the UK, the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Perfume Association recently reported that some products contain up to 10% formaldehyde (the limit under the UK Cosmetic Products Safety Regulations is only 0.2%), meaning some Brazilian hair treatments are using dangerous levels of these chemicals.
Formaldehyde is scary, to say the least; it is on the Department of Health and Human Services' "reasonably anticipated to be human carcinogens" list, and has been linked to cancers like leukemia. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel does list formaldehyde as "safe as used" in cosmetics within certain specifications from research done in 1984, but these specifications include using it in quantities of less than 0.2 percent. An investigative article in Allure from 2007 tested three salon samples of individual Brazilian hair-straightening solutions, only to find that all three of the formaldehyde levels were in excess of the recommended .2 percent limit.
According to one study in a 2010 Toxicology Science Journal, inhaled formaldehyde is classified as a known human and animal carcinogen, causing nasopharyngea cancer. Brazilian straighteners are applied to the hair and heated with a flat iron, vaporizing the formaldehyde and releasing it into the air. According to the Professional Beauty Association, both stylists and clients can be exposed to levels of formaldehyde greater than 0.75 ppm by inhaling these vapors. Another study showed that the chemical has mutagenic risks. Doesn't that seem to be too toxic of an occupational hazard to mess with?
There are some formaldehyde free options, though, which range from completely hyde-free, to moderate levels of organic aldehydes. Among them: Brocato's Curlinterrupted Keratin Smoothing System which claims to be a formaldehyde-free, thio-free, sodium hydroxide free, keratin based solution.
But some argue that formaldehyde-free doesn't equate to completely safe either. Cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson of beautystat.com says aldehyde is from the same family of organic compounds. Aldehyde and formalin are derivatives or chemicals in the same family, which means they still produce similar noxious gases and require the use of phase masks and ventilation during processing. Common "formaldehyde-free" products also often contain glutaraldehyde, biformal (oxalaldehyde) and ammonium thioglycolate. None of these chemicals are squeaky clean.
In the fight against frizzy curls, hair straightening does seem to be an appealing method on the surface. But given the high risk involved, it is a little too toxic to ignore the dangers.
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Summar - Thank you so much for the information on keratin treatments for frizzy hair. You saved me so much time as I was about to start researching the latest facts on these products. It's been so humid this year that I can't get control of my frizz and I've been pushed to the edge of doing something drastic, but now I've put on the brakes. I think I'll read up on the Brocato product though.
Posted on August 5, 2010 at 9:22 am
My best friend, after two years of yearning-yet-doubt, had her hair "straightened via the Koreon method (probably the Japanese method). It didn't take on her hair, but the process still took 4 hours, and when complete, she had the dryest hair of her life. She knew it was deeply damaged. She's now working to restore hydration etc. This article is timely! Thank you, Summar. ~jk
Posted on August 5, 2010 at 12:17 pm
That depends on the brand, so far my experience with keratin treatments have been anything but bad.
For example, Taip and Maxliss keratin have great products available in order to get the best results, aside from their keratin hair treatment.
And they are giving away 60ml samples for $20, if you want to go the safe way for a strand test:
http://maxliss-keratin.com/max-liss-keratin/max-liss-keratin-trial-sizes.html
Good luck!
Matie
Posted on August 5, 2010 at 4:34 pm
I agree with Matie, brazilian keratin treatments left my hair smooth ,shiny and even have repaired some of my split ends. My hair is healthier than ever. I agree, it all depends on the product. I prefer not to take my chances and have it done professionaly every 6 months (I cant afford to have it every 4 as recommended) Pricey but worth every penny.
Posted on August 6, 2010 at 6:07 am
I just heard back from Brocato in regards to their ingredients, and here is what they said:
"Thank you for your enquiry , our is system is 100% formaldehyde free. We have a two part system , a very gentle gel is applied to the hair that softens the bonds in the hair, the key ingredient is ammonium bisulphate.
Second part of the procedure a keratin spray is applied and then dried into the hair, finally you finish with an iron and an active serum."
I looked into ammonium bisulphate and it is used as a no-lye hair relaxer. But it also selectively reduces the cystine bonds, so it is weaker and works more slowly. Also, while it's weaker formula is less inclined to irritate, there is a case of contact dermatitis after using it as part of a hair relaxing treatment. Close, but no cigar.
Posted on August 9, 2010 at 7:38 am
BRAZILIAN BLOWOUT is a brand name, often copied or falsely advertised. The REAL BB is formaldehyde-free and works wonders without damage or permanent changes in your hair.
Posted on August 18, 2010 at 10:01 am
Lots of people have dry hair. I honestly don't think Jennifer Aniston's straightened hair looks truly "silky" or like naturally straight hair. I would rather use the Japanese straightening method and have dryish (not too dry) straight hair, than take a chance with my life with the Brazilian treatment. Which is worse, taking a chance at some hair damage, or at damaging your lungs and possibly shortening your life? (this should be a no-brainer, which is why I still to this day don't understand why many ppl still choose the latter choice....)
Posted on October 2, 2010 at 10:31 pm
The media has seriously scared people over keritan hair treatments. Our salon had our air tested by a professional company while 3 treatments were being done. We have high ceilings with numerous ceiling fans on and have our doors open while they are being done. Our air quality was very safe. Its all about airflow and good ventalation. You wouldn't paint in an room or use some cleaning supplies in a room without good ventelation. It can be done quite safely! What kertian can do for someone whos hair gets frizzy curly or unruly in anyway is amazing! People love it and it doesnt damage the hair!
Posted on November 17, 2010 at 9:18 pm
WOW! SUPER INFORMATIVE!! I've been doing hair for 17 years,my true love lyes with color, but all the hype on this BB treatment I'm ready to hop on th band wagon! But didn't realize how truly dangerous it can be.THANX FOR VALUABLE INFO!!!! If both client and stylist wear a mask...is it safe?
Posted on March 1, 2011 at 2:47 pm
i have my hair "japanese straight", honestly I cant say enough good things about it. The product my stylist used on my hair is formaldahyde free and one of the best products used on the market, though I forget the name of it at the moment.
I got it done 2 months ago and it still looks just as straight & beautiful as the day I got it done. Its silky smooth, not dry at all.
On a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being straight as an arrow & 10 being major frizzy afro) my hair was about a 7, now its easily a 1. I can curl it, I can crimp it, I can do anything I want with it.
Im extremely satisfied, but I also did my research before deciding on a stylist to let do my hair. I called around, asked how long the ppl had been doing the treatment, and how often they do them.
Posted on April 16, 2011 at 8:47 pm
Christine,
The problem isn't just the fumes that the client is exposed to during the treatment. A huge factor is that they will go home and use heating treatments (blow-dryer, straightener, curling iron) every day (or near every day), and that will release the chemicals again into the air. I had this treatment done a year ago, and while I had fairly good results, I could smell the horrible chemical smell every time I used heat on my hair. Then all the research started to come out and I understood why. I called my stylist and the brand she used (called Inoar) isn't supposed to have high levels of formaldahyde (which is also why the results weren't as drastic and impressive), but I could smell that chemical for weeks and weeks after, and it was really strong. I decided it wasn't worth the risk for me.
Posted on May 25, 2011 at 2:58 pm
You have not stated any factual evidence on the downside of Japanese hair straightening in your article. What you did write, seemed to be anecdotal at best, but nothing convincing about negative health effects. I have had this procedure performed on my hair over the past ten years at least nine or ten different times in over three different countries between North America and Asia. My hair did not lose its lustre as you stated; in fact, it becomes even more shiny and silky.
As for the 'half-curly, half stick-straight hair' comment, that can easily be remedied with periodic touch-ups with a qualified hair technician. Regardless, that has nothing to do with any 'danger' of which you write.
Posted on December 19, 2011 at 3:29 pm
I have been using the Japanese Straightening Method for the past 3 years and my hair is just as thick and shiny as ever before. I don't have to use any heating products (blow dryer, straightener, etc) because I can just wash my hair and go. I am going in for a touch up tomorrow because it has been 8 months and my curly hair is starting to affect the style. It is not super curly on top and stick straight below. It is just starting to come in slightly thicker but the weight of my long hair pulls out the curl. It is not noticeable but I am going in but my bangs are slightly more "puffy" looking. I recommend this procedure to everyone!
Posted on February 14, 2012 at 3:03 pm
Hey ! I use this hair straightening technique - look at #3 "Blow Dry Techniques" - http://www.shielo.com/styling/straight-hair.html
I followed the steps exactly 6 months ago and OMG - its my favorite technique now and gets my hair so STRAIGHT! Try it...
Posted on February 20, 2012 at 10:45 pm
I'm not sure about the japanese but
http://www.brazilianblowout.com/_literature_72696/Material_Safety_Data_Sheet.pdf
that is the MSDS for the brazilian blow out. When I worked in a restaurant an MSDS was only required for harmful chemicals. This procedure is not good for you OR your hair.
Posted on March 21, 2012 at 1:35 am
So what do you recommend for someone who has coarse, thick curly hair. Are there any options?
Is dimethicone safe in a hair straightener?
Posted on March 29, 2012 at 8:29 pm