Argireline
Julie K recently ignited a debate on our Five Best products that contain Matrixyl 3000 post by saying that her experience with Argireline is that – over time – it seems to make wrinkles worse. I have always regarded Argireline (the trade name for an ingredient called acetyl hexapeptide-3) as one of those quick fix ingredients myself. But a longer term unfix is something else. It is time to take a deeper dive into Argireline and try to understand what it does and how it works.
Most of us know that Argireline prevents the formation of expression wrinkles by somehow inhibiting muscle movement. For this reason, it is sometimes called Botox in a jar. But, in fact, they work very differently. First a 101 on what happens when you frown.
So, here’s how a muscle contracts. A super lipid (called a vesicle) releases a neurotransmitter to the synapses, sending a signal for the muscle to move. Three proteins, called the SNARE complex, are essential for the final stages of this process (called exocytosis). Got that? Now, here's where acetyl hexapeptide-3 comes in.
Argireline is made by Lipotec (based in Barcelona, Spain). Lipotec discovered that acetyl hexapeptide mimics one of the proteins in the SNARE complex and as a result can destabilize it. Even a slightly destabilized SNARE won’t work. No SNARE equals no muscle movement. No frowning equals no wrinkles (although there are many other ways that wrinkles are caused of course).
Lipotec does not claim that Argireline works in any other way, such as boosting collagen or repairing skin. As you would expect, Lipotec claims that simply ensnaring SNARE is enough to have an impact on wrinkles. Lipotec’s studies were based on a 5% Argireline) and female volunteers. Wrinkles around the eyes decreased up to 17% after 15 days of treatment and up to 27% after 30 days of treatment. The only independent study that I have found was conducted by a Spanish university and published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science that says that a 10% concentration of Argireline reduced wrinkles by 30% over 30 days.
There are fears that Argireline will make your skin sag with long term use. I haven't found any explicit evidence of this and I think the rumors are flying around because of a misunderstanding of the way that Argireline and the other Botox in a jar formulas) work. A rumor that has been perpetuated, if not started, Cosmetic Cop, who said: If all the muscles in your face were relaxed you’d have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention that it also would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers), which would prevent you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car.
This definition that they are muscle relaxers, as we have just seen, is not true. They prevent muscles from contracting rather than causing them to relax. Quite a different thing.
Nonetheless, my position is that I would never choose a potion because it has Argireline in it. If manufacturers think that it is so fashionable these days that they can't avoid it, that's fine. But I'll be looking for collagen builders and preventers of structural aging such as Matrixyl 3000 or the more recent Teprenone.
Loading...
Marta- we can count on you to get right down to the heart of the matter! Thank you. ~jk
Posted on May 18, 2010 at 1:43 pm
Marta,
Thank you for following up so quickly on Julie's comment and, once again, for separating the science from the rumors.
Julie,
Thank you too for sharing your experience with the Argireline that prompted this post.
I love being well-informed!
Posted on May 18, 2010 at 3:02 pm
I've read a few articles which say that Argireline in cream form cannot penetrate deeply enough into muscle to do anything, but that it causes 'a distressing effect on the skin' that encourages growth of new skin and collagen. Then I've read the horror stories too. Must be something better than Argireline. Waiting to read Marta's post on Eshee & FGF 1 gene therapy :)
Posted on May 19, 2010 at 3:53 pm
Does that mean you would NOT avoid it, but wouldn't look for it?
Posted on May 20, 2010 at 10:42 am
Great question Valerie. I wouldn't avoid it, but I wouldn't choose something because it contained argireline. I would choose something because it had Matrixyl 3000, or Treprenone, or Spin Trap etc.
Posted on May 20, 2010 at 11:18 am
As I have almost 10 years on Marta and Junko, I believe my skin is more fragile and unwilling to forgive missteps. After my recent debacle regards Argireline, I will avoid potions containing this active. Matrixyl 3000, other poly peptides, amino acids, spin trap, Syn-Coll, there are many excellent actives that work to rebuild the collagen superstructure- I'll be seeking those. ~jk
Posted on May 20, 2010 at 2:07 pm
Julie, our voice of reason and years of wisdom worth heeding, it's good to get your thoughts on this.
Posted on May 20, 2010 at 2:29 pm
I'm no scientist but in my world of logic, if you prevent a muscle from contracting, wouldn't it eventually lose tone and, therefore, sag? Yes, if a muscle doesn't move, it doesn't drag the skin on top of it into repetitive expression lines. Seems to me that what's really important is preserving the elasticity/tightness of the skin so it goes back to the way it was after we smile or frown, like when we were 10 years old!
Posted on May 27, 2010 at 9:15 am
I have used argireline 10% solutions for 14 years and have had fabulous results. No sagging here! People mistake me for 35 all the time when I am almost 50. Anyway, using the Isomers version now and love it. Also use Matrixyl and other peptide serums.
Posted on July 31, 2011 at 11:08 am
Yes, certainly, Karey. I believe continued use of Argireline can provide beneficial results- but, in my case, it's when one stops using it the reverse reaction sets in. And the decade between 50 and 60 is truly the glory years for your facial skin. I only offer my own experiences as cautionary advice. And using, especially in a too high concentration of, Argireline (at least for me) is one of them. ~jk
Posted on August 1, 2011 at 3:20 pm