Phenoxyethanol
Phenoxyethanol is the new darling of the chemical industry and it is increasingly turning up in cosmetics as a preservative as an alternative to parabens. It only recently came to public attention in the US when the FDA issued a warning about its use in a cream, called Mommy Bliss, for nursing mothers. The FDA warned that phenoxyethanol can cause shut down of the central nervous system, vomiting and contact dermatitis.
So what is phenoxyethanol, is it is really safer than parabens or should we try to avoid it?
Phenoxyethanol is a glycol ether. Glycols are a series of chemicals that find their way into all sorts of things: paint, lacquer, jet fuel..... Phenoxyethanol is used as an anti-bacterial in cosmetics as well as a stabilizer in perfume.
The product's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) says that it phenoxyethanol is harmful if swallowed, inhaled or absorbed through the skin and that it can cause reproductive damage. The MSDS refers to 100% concentrations, so is it safe at lower doses? In cosmetics the concentrations are typically 0.5% to 1%.
There are several animal studies that demonstrate that it is toxic - with effects on the brain and the nervous system - at moderate concentrations. In Japan, there is a concentration limit for its use in cosmetics. In Europe, the European Union classifies it as an irritant and there are various studies (on rabbit skin, for example) that demonstrate reactions at low doses. The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) data sheets show chromosomal changes and genetic mutation effects in testing as well as testicular atrophy and interference with reproductivity in mice.
I also came across a report written by a medical professional who contracted allergies after coming into contact with phenoxyethanol in a detergent used for cleaning lab equipment. It seems he wasn't a fluke. There are over 3,000 known allergans and they were studied, along with the data from 9,948 patients, by a research team in Germany. Phenoxyethanol was in the top 10. An Italian study also determined that phenoxyethanol is a contact allergan. However, a 1990 article in the Journal of the American College of Toxicology said that it was only a mild irritant to rabbit skin at 2%.
Concern that phenoxyethanol is a neurotoxin precedes the FDA. German research in 1999, concluded that it had neurotoxin potential.
Phenoxyethanol breaks down to phenol and acetaldehyde, acetaldehyde converts to acetate. Phenol can disable the immune system's primary response mechanism. Given that, it is at best ironic, that phenoxyethanol is used as an anti-bacterial in vaccines. Acetaldehyde occurs during the breakdown of ethanol, (alchohol and 2-phenoxyETHANOL), it is a suspected carcinogen. Inhalation studies have shown irritation of the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.
I feel that given the wealth of evidence, I'd rather give it a miss even at concentrations of 1% or lower. That, however, is easier said than done. Phenoxyethanol is becoming ubiquitous and it is hard to avoid. But if you do, here is a selection of beauty products that don't contain phenoxyethanol and have found safe preservatives:
Cosmetics without phenoxyethanol
Sevani uses radish root ferment in its products, for example Rapid Renewal Resurfacing Creme, Truth In Aging's first product, formulated for women with thinning hair, Hair Vitality Complex, also uses radish root as a natural, safe preservative as does Avitalin. Oil-based products can avoid preservatives so look out for serum's such as YBF Private Reserve antioxidant oil, La Isha's Breast SOS, or 100% Pure's tinted moisturizer.
Cosmetics with a low concentration of phenoxethanol
For those who take a pragmatic approach, here are some cosmetic recommendations that focus on natural, safe ingredients and have phenoxyethanol at a relatively small concentration at the end of the formula: La Vie Celeste Extra Rich Face Cream, ReLuma's Serum or SenZen's Double Dose Eye Cream.
As far as possible, products in the Truth In Aging shop are chosen for their safety profile as well as effectiveness.
Related articles
The FDA warning on phenoxyethanol
Natural alternatives to phenoxyethanol
What is it: Estrogen in my face cream
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Are there any preservatives that are safe? I'd like to get a list of preservatives that I can safely use.
The alternative is either to purchase products that contain no water (which mold and bacteria need to thrive) or to only buy or make enough product to be used during the days or weeks of shelf-life that a preservative free product has.
Posted on August 6, 2008 at 2:31 pm
Good suggestion. I'll put together a list of safe and non-irritating preservatives over the next few weeks.
Posted on August 7, 2008 at 7:10 am
Marta's comments are somewhat misleading. The real problem with the Mommy's Bliss cream was chlorphenesin, which is not supposed to be used in products that may be injested.
Phenoxyethanol is NOT a glycol ester. It is an ether.
Japan and Europe only allow approved preservatives and they place a limit on ALL approved preservatives, so the fact that they have a limit on phenoxyethanol does not imply it is dangerous.
Phenoxyethanol will only break down to phenol in the presence of VERY strong acids.
It it important to remember that DOSAGE is everything when it comes to toxicity. Many vital nutrients are toxic at high doses. Many poisons are totally harmless at low doses.
The wealth of evidence on phenoxyethanol is that it is safe. It even occurs naturally in green tea (see reference).
YAMAGUCHI, K. and SHIBAMOTO, T. (1981). Volatile constituents of green tea, Gyokuro (Camellia
sinensis L. var Yabukita). J. Agric. Food Chem. 29, 366-70.
Posted on August 22, 2008 at 9:44 am
For the record, this is what the FDA said about phenoxyethanol in relation to Mommy's Bliss: "Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that is primarily used in cosmetics and medications. It also can depress the central nervous system and may cause vomiting and diarrhea, which can lead to dehydration in infants."
I agree that dosage is key. Is it too much to ask that manufacturers tell us how much of a potentially toxic product they use?
Posted on August 22, 2008 at 9:54 am
You are right about it being an ether , not an ester; a typo that has now been corrected.
Posted on August 22, 2008 at 10:10 am
Thanks to Ken for the clarification. While this article contains some vital information, it's very important to tell the entire story-- not just one side of it. I'd also like to add that the statement on parabens is also misleading. The toxicity and potential danger level of parabens is disputed among scientists. Dismissing the arguments against paraben use (which ARE valid) and merely pointing out that parabens "irritate marine life" is extremely problematic.
The truth is cancer, developmental diseases, and birth defects are all on the rise, among many other illnesses. This is a result of many things, including the use of various chemicals in personal care products and cosmetics. Phenoxyethanol, parabens, and other preservatives fall into this category, and every single one of them should be questioned-- equally, and in an objective and rational manner.
Posted on September 20, 2008 at 6:47 pm
I think we are violently agreeing. Generally, we take the view that we should question the use of these chemicals. But scientists are divided and I am merely pointing out the question of marine life is one where there seems to be a consensus.
Posted on September 21, 2008 at 2:29 pm
I think with all the allergens and toxins out there in the world and with what will work for one person, may not work for the next person; people need to be aware of what ingredients that may cause reactions for them.
I find the two supposedly healthy products I used had Phenoxyethanol in. I'd been having reactions since using the products and I couldn't figure out why. So I discontinued the products (now for a week) and I feel so much better and no reactions!
I opt to look for products with the least amount of ingredients in them and that are dubbed 'safe-to-eat', to use on my body.
Posted on October 3, 2008 at 9:57 am
First I would like to address the comment I would rather use products that are dubbed "safe to eat". Well your natural bacteria on your face that is there to protect you, might not agree with food bacteria that could carry a more serious problem for you than a safe chemical ingredient that does not cause any health issues, but most likely is more safe for you than some natural ingredients. Many of those are called "Natural Moisturizing Factors" that are the same as your own.
My second comment is we must remember that irritating ingredients (Essential volatile oils) harm your skin even if you do not see it or feel it, the damage is on going just the same. When you have more than one in a product and you use several products a day from Deodorants to face and body products, you are putting many, many irritating ingredients on your skin day after day, after day. That all adds up to serious skin issues. The job of the consumer is to learn both sides of the cosmetic ingredient issue, Natural ingredients and Safe chemical ingredients.
Not all Naturals are good, nor are all Chemicals bad!
Posted on April 29, 2009 at 7:56 am
I've been doing some research of my own on a specific Conditioner I purchased on ebay. It was listed as 92% organic ingredients. I thought to myself..."I wonder what other ingredients they're adding?" I picked apart every ingredient in the product & PHENOXYETHANOL was the only one I found to be substantially harmful to humans.
When we're using Shampoos, Conditioners, Body washes & soaps in the shower, the products that go on are skin are also partially being inhaled when they mix & evaporate with hot water. One thing that stood out to me with PHENOXYETHANOL was the damage to DNA & the possibility of respiratory problems(Acute pulmonary edema).
Also PHENOXYETHANOL is linked to cause dermatitis(inflamation of the skin). I'd prefer my skin, shampoo & conditioner products to not cause irritation at all.
What healthy alternative to Phenoxyethanol can I use if I start making my own conditioners? Or is it not realy needed at all in haircare products?
Posted on January 25, 2010 at 10:01 pm
Here are some alternative preservatives: http://www.truthinaging.com/hair/what-is-it-natural-preservative-alternatives-to-phenoxyethanol-and-parabens
Posted on January 26, 2010 at 3:46 am
[...] does when it enters our body (this reiterates what the MSDS states to be true): “Phenoxyethanol breaks down to phenol and acetaldehyde, acetaldehyde converts to acetate. Phenol can disable the [...]
Posted on May 13, 2010 at 6:33 pm
I have to ask a question. After checking the "about" pages for everyone on this site, not a single contributor noted any background in either chemistry, or any applicable field. I did notice a few mentions of journalism backgrounds, but that most certainly does not qualify someone as knowledgable in this area. Why should I trust the opinions of writers on this subject as opposed to scientists?
Posted on June 28, 2010 at 12:12 pm
i have eczema and have had to avoid everything with this in it has made me ill avoid at all costs!!!
Posted on January 5, 2011 at 9:16 am
I've had eczema for 8 years, finally my dermatologist has told me I'm allergic to Phenoxethanol. I'm astonished at how many beauty products and even baby care products contain this dreadful substance.
Posted on January 28, 2011 at 7:18 am
[...] often used as an alternative to parabens (there is a great piece—and debate—about it over here, at Truth in Aging), it gets a 4 on Skin Deep, and it’s on our list of 20 ingredients in the [...]
Posted on March 30, 2011 at 10:45 am
I have a really sensitive skin. I don't have many allegies,but cosmetics usually irritate my skin(especially blushes and eyeliners) I'm pretty sure I'm reacting to parabens, I knew it befroe ı read aboıt all the awful stuff abıut parabens. I've never heard of phenoxyethanol,just recently I wanted to buy a blush and read its ingredients and it is in there. of course no info about the percent of it in the product. I searched it on ewg and it was 3-4. is it really bad?? I'll be checking out for more info,thank you for sharing.
Posted on May 8, 2011 at 5:46 am
I HAVE NEVER HAD A SKIN PROBLEM BOUGHT A SHAMPOO BEEHIVE BONTANICALS THEN I ACQUIRED CRADLE CAP IT IS SO ITCHY AND LEAVES FLAKES AROUND MY HAIR LINE THE NEXT DAY. SO WENT BACK TO ANOTHER SHAMPOO BUT CAME BACK AGAIN. THEN I TRIED BEEHIVE AGAIN AND LOOKED UP THE INGREDIENTS PHENOXETHANOL AND SURE ENOUGH I GOT MY CONDITION AGAIN SO THE ONLY THING I CAN CONTRIBUTE MY SKIN CONDITION TO IS THAT.
Posted on June 4, 2011 at 6:04 pm
[...] I’m in a bit of a conundrum now, as I had some good recommendations from friends which I planned on following up with… until I continued a bit further down the rabbit hole of label reading neurosis and found that these newly lauded products, while paraben free, are turning towards phenoxyethanal, which also seems problematic. You can learn more about that here [7/15 update... the link's working now!]. [...]
Posted on July 15, 2011 at 10:15 am
[...] score on EWG. I found a good article debating the potential concerns with this preservative on Truth in Aging, which I urge you to check out if this ingredient concerns you at all. While I wish there was a [...]
Posted on August 16, 2011 at 8:08 am
I found this preservative listed as "natural" in the NCN proskincare line. It was hidden under the name "Optiphen". Important to note that companies are being somewhat misleading about it.
Posted on October 6, 2011 at 9:27 am
Good catch Jen
Posted on October 6, 2011 at 3:33 pm
No one is ever going to be happy with any preservative. I have my own cosmetic company and you NEED something on any product that has moisture. Otherwise it becomes a focal point for infection. How would you like it if your lipstick would grow tons of bacteria and you just use it until one day you lose your lip for an infection. Then who are you going to sue? People will always fault in everything, otherwise they're not happy.
Posted on November 8, 2011 at 9:02 pm
Thanks for this information as someone recently asked me my opinion on Glymed whose Intense Peptide Complex contains phenoxenanol. After reading this I am glad I did not apply it. Full disclosure: I use Sense skin care line that is not manufactured with parabens and phylates. I have been using it for two years now and am very pleased and the more I read the happier I am. To validate Marta, YES there is a way to preserve without this harmful ingredients and bottling is key. It seems so many of these skin care lines are pushed for a kind of instant result. Tonight after trying some of this new product on one side of my face I did feel irritation (Skin recovery Mist that you ae supposed to use all day long!) and behold paraben on the label.
No thank you! Beauty without poison please.
Posted on November 19, 2011 at 1:36 am
This s a fluke, I read another website that said this product was only harmful if used on it's own. When it is used with another two chemicals it is safe and affective. If you don't believe me, then here is the website: http://truthinaging.com/ingredient-spotlight/what-is-it-phenoxyethanol-and-is-it-safe
Posted on December 7, 2011 at 8:01 pm