This is not your mother's sunscreen. Hydropeptide SPF 30 Anti-wrinkle Skin Enhancing UV Protection ($40) claims that it "self-adjusts to the color of your own skin tone" so that you are not only being protected by the two mineral sunscreens but your skin looks evened out. I have been using a free sample Hydropeptide's new sunscreen for over a month and can report that it mostly does what it says on the can. It took me a while to come to terms with it though.
For a start, my eyes started to glaze over at the substantial list of silicones, several of which come with intimidatingly long names. I'd rather it didn't have aluminum, a neurotoxin, although the form here - alumina
– is thought to be safe because it doesn’t penetrate the skin. I would have preferred an all zinc oxide active formula as titanium dioxide
has been found to be a photosensitizer that can be absorbed by the skin (although the particle size does minimize this effect). The Canadians don't much like polyhydroxystearic acid as it is biocumulative. And I'm not all that keen on methylisothiazolinone
, which is an irritant and is only approved for use in rinse-off formulas and at low concentrations, or phenoxyethanol
The first squirt of Hydropeptide SPF Anti-wrinkle Skin Enhancing UV Protection is a little eyebrow raising as it has a distinctly blue tinge and on application there is that white, chalky layer typical of mineral sunscreens. This, however, disappears within about 60 seconds and it must be said that thereafter the overall effect is that of a smoother, more even toned complexion. Not surprisingly, given all the silicone, the skin feels soft to the touch as well.
Before testing it on my face, I tried it out for three or four weeks on my neck where I have some reddish, roughish skin due to the fact that I often forget to extend the sunscreen I use on my face there. The Hydropeptide did a good job of protecting me on hot sunny days in the city and it also reduced the redness and roughness a little.
Notwithstanding my first reaction to the ingredients, there are some good botanicals here that soothe (calendula
) and provide antioxidants (green tea and acai). Kaempferia Galanga is a member of the ginger family and is mostly used as an antimicrobial, although Hydropeptide says that it also has sun protection powers.
In conclusion, I think that Hydropeptide SPF Anti-wrinkle Skin Enhancing UV Protection is a smart idea - a multitasking sunscreen and instant complexion enhancer with some long term benefits - but I don't love the formula enough to buy a second bottle.
Active ingredients: Titanium dioxide 2.5%, zinc oxide 6%
Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexy Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 80, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Alumina, Caprylyl Methicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Japanese Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Iron Oxide, Phenoxyethanol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ammonim Methacrylate Copolymer, Boron Nitride, Titanium Dioxide, Triethyl Citrate, Allantoin, Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract (Galanga), Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Panthenol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract (Acai Berry), Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Niacinamide, Pyridoxine HCL, Biotin, Methylisothiazolinone