Lancôme Visionnaire [LR 2412 4%]' Advanced Skin Corrector Review

Lancôme Visionnaire [LR 2412 4%]' Advanced Skin Corrector ($84) has all the trappings of a marketing campaign that wants us to believe that this is The Next Big Thing: sleek packaging, carpet-bombing of ads in all the right glossy magazines, cutting edge multi-patented high tech never-been-seen-before active, and, of course, promises. And what promises!

“This is the future of beauty,” says Youcef Nabi, president of Lancôme International. Meanwhile, the product blurb gushes: “Much more than a wrinkle-corrector, Lancôme's first skincare capable of fundamentally recreating more beautiful skin.”

Lancôme Visionnaire‘s supposed breakthrough is a molecule dubbed LR 2412. Lab rats will appreciate that it has an affinity with water and oil and, therefore, is very bioavailable (can easily penetrate and be absorbed by the body).  Which is all very well, but what exactly is this molecule comprised of?

My guess is that it is listed in the ingredients as adenosine. This is a molecule that carries energy and it is an anti-inflammatory. It has recently become a favorite of eyelash growth product manufacturers.

It seems that Lancôme Visionnaire’s secret sauce also has do with something that plants produce called jasmonic acid. There are two ingredients in Lancôme Visionnaire’s otherwise lackluster formula that point to jasmonic acid: sodium tetrahydrojasmonate and tetrahydrojasmonic acid. And I must admit that jasmonic acid is very interesting.

Jasmonic acid is a “jasmonate” and one of its major functions is to protect a plant under stress. Put a hungry caterpillar on a leaf and the plant will start to produce jasmonic acid. It is actually a kind of hormone and when it senses that the plant is under attack, it inhibits growth. Another thing that jasmonic acid is big on is stimulating tuber formation; jasmonic acid is the main reason a potato becomes a potato.

While this is fascinating for budding botanists, I’m not sure why growth inhibiting, tuber makers should be in a face cream. One clue might be that in recent years more has been understood about jasmonic acid and it seems that it does all sorts of other things and works gradually, at minute doses, to modify the processes of growth, development and reproduction - well, in plants, anyway.

Interesting though all this is, it takes a big leap of faith to see this as the future of beauty. I have so far found no information on what it might do in human skin. And there’s nothing else to pin your hopes on in the Lancôme Visionnaire formula. In fact it’s a rather bleak concoction with only a smattering of sodium hyaluronate amongst the many silicones, standard emollients and synthetic thickeners.

Lancôme Visionnaire is meant for 25 to 50-year-olds, which at 52 puts me out of its target market. Somehow, I don't find that to be all that frustrating.

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Lancôme Visionnaire Ingredients: Aqua, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Dipropylene glycol, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone Polymethyl Methacrylate, CI 77891, Mica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Dimethiconol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Citronellol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Parfum, sodium tetrahydrojasmonate, ammonium polyacrldimethtyltauramide/ammonium polyacryloydimethyl taurate, hydoxyethylellulose, argilla/magnesium aluminium silicate, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Citronellol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Parfum/Fragrance.