My post the other day on Cindy Crawford's Meaningful Beauty line prompted Colinmack to ask if anyone had a view on Victoria Principal's Secret line of beauty products. Ms P will in my mind be forever Dallas' Pam Ewing and I have to remind myself that she is a canny business woman with a production company and several books as well as a cosmetic line to her name. It is that quality that perhaps prompted her to proclaim from the rooftops that her Secret antiager is Argireline.

The "alternative to Botox" has been the cosmetic ingredient du jour for a few years now. The thing is that Argireline is looking a little passe. A neuropeptide that is supposed to inhibit the facial expressions that cause wrinkles, Argireline is having to step aside and make way for a new set of more powerful rivals, such as SNAP-8 or SY-NAKE.

Taking a look Principal Secret Reclaim Eyemazing eye serum, I am more impressed by the line's use of glycosaminoglycans. Their primary role is to maintain and support collagen, elastin and keep protein fibers in balance and proportion. GAGs also promote the ability of the collagen and elastin fibers to retain moisture, therefore remaining soluble (Source). They are important in the reaction of copper peptides to help repair wrinkles and acne scarring. Known as the water reserve of the viable epidermis and dermis, these carbohydrates are dependent on fluid intake. Glycosaminoglycans are also linked to the lymphatic system.

There is also an interesting seaplant. I first came across ahnfeltia concinna when I tried out Reviva Lab's excellent collagen eye pad kit ($38 in the TIA shop). The extract is full of proteoglycans, polypeptides and peptides. Ahnfeltia concinna extract’s peptides are thought to trigger a signal to the epidermal and dermal cells that a substantial breakdown of collagen has occurred.

The other botanical imperata cylindrica has a less convincing pedigree. It was thought that this was an inflammatory, but that has been disproved in clinical tests. White willow bark extract, on the other hand, is a common cosmetic ingredient. It is often used as a natural (though weaker) alternative to salicylic acid, because it controls sebum production and provides anti-acne properties. It isn't an obvious choice for an eye cream.

There are the usual suspects in the preservative department, silicones and there is also ethoxydiglycol, which seems to be a mild toxin and associated with cancer. Leaving those to one side, I would give Victorial Principal much higher marks than Cindy Crawford for creating a modern anti-aging potion. And for around $23, its worth checking out.

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Ingredients in Eyemazing
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Acetyl Hexapeptide 3, Butylene Glycol, Glycosaminoglycans, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Polysorbate 20, Propylene Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyethylene, Dimethicone Copoyol, Cyclomethicone, Imperata Cylindrica (Root) Extract, Ethoxydiglycol, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate,Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Isononyl Isnonanoate, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Lecithin, Maganese Ascorbyl Phosphate,Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben.