Anti-aging treatments- what are they
After numerous questions and comments about how various anti-aging facial treatments and procedures work and differ from one another, we are putting together a glossary. Please regard this as a work in progress that we will keep adding to and improving. So, if you’d like us to add a treatment, just leave a comment .
Botox, medically known as Botulinum Toxin Type A, is an injectable compound that disrupts the release of acetylcholine, which essentially paralyzes the muscle and stops the contraction. Results are fully evident within one week after treatment and remain for a minimum of three months. Studies on animals have shown that Botox can migrate to the brain.
Dysport (also called Reloxin) is an anti-aging treatment that works in exactly the same way as Botox, but is typically less expensive. It is said that the effects are more immediate (1-2 days against Botox’s 3-5) and last longer than Botox. However, Allergan, the maker of Botox, counters that Dysport is more likely to cause antibodt formation. Read more on Dysport.
Fraxel is a kind of laser anti-aging treatment that, instead of putting out a solid beam, it puts out lots of very tiny beams (fractionated) that punch microscopic holes in the skin. This approach means that damaged tissue can be targeted, leaving healthy tissue unscathed. Three to five sessions are required about two weeks apart.
Intense pulsed light (IPL) is not a laser per se. It uses broad-spectrum pulses of light which are absorbed into the skin where they eliminate excessive and enlarged blood vessels and brown marks. A computer-regulated light pulse heats a portion of the skin. This removes the unwanted tissue while it spares or avoids the surrounding healthy or “normal” tissue. This is because both long and short wavelengths of light can be delivered allowing better targeting than a traditional laser. Read more on IPL
Laser treatments remove a layer of skin so that the new skin can flourish and fill in the wrinkles and crevices. An ablative laser facial is like a sandblast, removing the epidermis, or outermost layer of your skin, to reveal a smoother surface below. Typically you would receive topical anesthesia, local anesthesia, and intravenous sedation so that you are awake, but not fully aware. Temporary side effects including swelling, red crusted skin and discomfort. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, the national average surgeon's fee for ablative laser skin resurfacing is $2,128. Titan Laser is an example of a non-ablative laser treatment
LED is light emitting diode with a low-level power output that uses red light (visible) and infra-red light (invisible). LED is much gentler than intense pulse light (IPL) or laser resurfacing. It works by stimulating the body’s tissues to convert the light energy into cellular energy. It boosts collagen production and scavenger cells that remove excess pigmentation or scar tissue. According to German researchers, it works by changing the molecular structure of a glue-like layer of water on elastin, the protein that provides elasticity in skin, blood vessels, heart and other body structures. The light strips away those water molecules that are involved in the immobilization of elastin, gradually restoring its elastic function and thus reducing facial wrinklesSessions cost in the region of $120 for about 20 minutes and are repeated monthly. More about LED
Microcurrent delivers low level electric currents to that stimulate facial muscles (I believe that the system was originally designed by doctors to help stroke victims regain movement). Face and neck muscles feel toned – the equivalent of having done bicep curls. The process is enormously relaxing and it does result in a youthful glow. I’ve been doing this for at least seven years (it is a monthly treatment) and remain a believer. It’s supposed to increase elastin by 48% and collagen by 14%. In the UK it is called a CACI treatment. Read more on microcurrent.
Mesotherapy – also called lipolysis, lipozap, lipotherapy, or lipodissolve – is unregulated and there are no standard procedures. Mesotherapy uses a cocktail of fat cell busting medications, vitamins and plant extracts. No two doctors will necessarily administer the same cocktail. Some seem to use an emphysema drug called aminophylline. Consumer beware: the FDA has issued a warning about mesotherapy that you can read by clicking here.
Pellevé Wrinkle Reduction System is, at least, according to its manufacturer, the next-generation high frequency radiowave technology. One way of thinking about Pellevé – given FDA clearance in May 2009. Billed as a painless alternative to Thermage, it works by heating where the skin and fat layer come together, resulting in the denaturation of collagen fibers. This takes place at 41°C. Cost is typically $700 to $1200 and two sessions 30 days apart are recommended. The results of newly formed collagen won’t be seen for about three months. It is supposed to last 18 month. More on Pelleve here
PermaLip implant is a one-time procedure and, unlike injectable fillers, PermaLip can’t redistribute into an undesired portion of the lip, an ugly and obvious sign of having used lip fillers. However, silicone fillers can become hard and migrate in time. See silicone fillers below and read more on PermaLip here.
Restylane and other impermanent, injectable fillers simply worked by providing volume and puffing out the face (especially around the nasolabial folds. The substance injected in a Restylane treatment is sodium hyaluronate. According to an independent study, Restylane relaxes the fibroblasts, which are then re-stretched by the filler, and form collagen. So it may also be doing more than just a temporary job. Read more on Restylane.
Rhytec Portrait Plasma is another high frequency machine. It can be painful and result in damaged skin. People complain about burns, scars, infections, and worsened hyperpigmentation. Some even say that their wrinkles are worse after the procedure.
Sculptra is also called the liquid facelift. It was approved by the FDA in 2005 to plump up the hollowed cheeks of ultra-thin kidney or AIDs patients. Sculptra is made of poly-lactic acid and is injected to add volume beneath the surface of the skin. It is claimed that Sculptra actually stimulates production of collagen. However, I haven’t been able to verify that with any hard evidence. Claims that this is one of those lunchtime treatments that will have you back at your desk before anyone will miss you are also not borne out by studies or anecdotal reports. The cost ranges from around $800 to $3,000, depending on the number of vials used and how many areas are done. Results are supposed to last up to two years.
Selphyl is also known as the vampire filler. Platelets and fibrin are removed from the patients’ blood and then inject the substance into the patient’s face. Skin cell growth and collagen support is supposed to occur as a result. There are no independent studies that prove these claims as of yet. Read more on Selphyl.
Silicone fillers. Liquid silicone is used off-label to fill wrinkles, furrows and acne scars or add volume to lips and cheeks. It is less expensive than fillers like collagen and Restylane (a gel made of hyaluronic acid) and it is easy to work with. But most of all they like silicone because it is permanentOnce silicone hardens, it can also migrate to other parts of the body. Injected silicone is a controversial substance. The Journal of Toxicology reported that silicone injections led to multi-organ failure. Research collected by the Plaintiff’s Steering Committee (PSC) for the National Breast Implant Litigation shows that silicone has marked effects on the adrenal glands and liver, induces chronic inflammation, and degrades into smaller molecules, including silica.
Thermage is a high frequency treatment. It is notable for being painful and results are inconsistent and often disappointing. In 2008 the FDA declared that Thermage had been cleared to introduce its Thermatip CL system for the “temporary improvement in the appearance of cellulite”. However, results are not convincing and may even make it look worse. Read more on Thermage here
Ulthera System was launched in 2010, has been FDA cleared and approved to use the word “lift” It uses ultrasound and delivers a focused beam of heat (about 60 degrees celsius) for 20 mili-seconds. This induces production of more elastin and collagen. A full face treatment costs in the region of $2,500 to $3,000, but is supposed have permanent results. More on Ulthera








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Marta,
I have an unrelated question; I'm putting it here as it's your most recent post.
Has Osmosis changed its formulation Replenish recently? I bought a new bottle (via the TIA store) a few weeks ago, and it seems "different". The color is now milky white, whereas it used to be pinkish; when I put it on my skin it stings a bit which it never used to do. So, I'm wondering why this bottle is different than the others I've used?
Thanks,
Stephanie
Posted on December 18, 2010 at 7:26 pm
Thanks Marta! Now can we hear from folks who have experience with any of these and what results, if any, were obtained? Personally, I had 3 or 4 Fraxel treatments. They were not the most comfortable experience, depending on your pain tolerance, mine is quite high. After the procedure I looked and felt sunburned but most of that was gone the next day. Not sure that I have seen amazing results (you have to wait a few months for results). Some age spots are lighter. No one but my aesthetician has commented on improved appearance (and of course she would) I might try one more time unless I hear of something better. Thanks for this info Marta, you're an amazing support to us all. Love TIA... seek and ye shall find!
Posted on December 19, 2010 at 8:43 am
Hi Stephanie, yes Osmosis has changed the formula. I asked them about this a few weeks ago. Replenish no longer has astaxanthin. When I asked why, they said that this was purely to do with the color. Astaxanthin is the stuff that makes salmon pink. It is also a great antioxidant so its a pity that it is no longer included. The ingredients list in the TIA shop is the most up to date. http://truthinaging.com/store/Osmosis%20Replenish?keyword=osmosis%20replenish&category_id=0
Posted on December 19, 2010 at 11:08 am
Thanks Marta! Do you think that the lack of Astaxanthin might account for the sudden sting of the product on my sensitive skin? I was a huge fan of Replenish specifically because it worked so well for me....sigh now I need to find something else.
Thanks again,
Stephanie
Posted on December 19, 2010 at 12:16 pm
Stephanie, I'm not sure. But the old formula listed "ethyl" as the third ingredient, which I guess was alcohol. New the new lists "corn alcohol". Perhaps, there has been a change there too and the new alcohol is stronger or different and possibly irritating.
Posted on December 20, 2010 at 6:39 am
One of our regular contributors, Danny, has promised to write a review of his Sculptra experience.
Posted on December 20, 2010 at 2:29 pm
Great summary, Marta! I'm going to print this out and take it along when I discuss these options with my doctors. You omitted Silicone products such as SILQ, which is alleged to affect permanent changes (inspiring fear in some, elation in others, and hopefully caution in everyone!) Thank you for making this useful information available to us.
Posted on December 22, 2010 at 12:34 pm
Marta,
Where does Titan laser fit in with these anti-aging methods?
Posted on December 23, 2010 at 1:57 am
Hi Marta you are a treasure for posting this fascinating article of facial treatments .Im going to have serious read after Christmas . Please keep us aware and updated on these treatments and if FDA approves is so important. Off the line ihave given up expensive night creams no matter how good and its plain old 100% rose hip oil! Have a Cool Yule Christmas in freezing USA and thank you again for the article that encourages and warns ... Primrose Krasicki,Australia
Posted on December 23, 2010 at 2:34 pm
Marta,
Per our earlier conversation, I wanted to let you know that the irritation from Replenish has gotten extreme, and I am in need of a replacement for it. What would you recommend?
Thanks and Merry Xmas!
Stephanie
Posted on December 24, 2010 at 7:43 pm
Merry Christmas to you too Stephanie. Your question as to what to replace Replenish with is a tough one. Replenish has some very good and not especially common ingredients for a good price. I can't think of anything that is similar. Here are a few thoughts though. One of the main ingredients is phosphatidycholine. You don't see this too often, but it is in SenZen's Infinity (a lot more expensive, but there is 20% off right now). And it has good peptides and antioxidants. Another approach would be Your Best Face Antioxidants Concentrate, it has ferulic acid and spin trap (like Replenish) and you could add your own tetrahydrocurcuminoids (tumeric).
I'll keep thinking about this though.
Posted on December 26, 2010 at 7:36 am
Marta,
Glad to hear you had a good holiday.
I am reluctant to give up Replenish, but the new formula irritates my skin- stings, then itches. Are you still using it? If so, have you noticed anything from the new formula? I submitted feedback to Osmosis, but I've not heard a thing in response, which is disappointing. I've got more than 2/3 of a bottle left which I do not want to waste so I may try using it in the spring/summer when the humidity goes up.
I've got the SenZen Infinity, which I love for décolletage, but I am worried it will make my face break out.
I've got the YBF Antioxidants,and coincidentally started using it this evening, prior to reading your suggestion. How would I add tetrahydrocurcuminoids?
If you think of anything else, please let me know....
Thanks again,
Stephanie
Posted on December 26, 2010 at 9:18 pm
My bottle of Replenish (almost finished) is from the old batch). Danny tested the new one and liked it and had no problems.
You could get tetrahydrocurcuminoids at Lotioncrafter http://www.lotioncrafter.com/. You could use turmeric, but it will stain orange.
I need to keep thinking about this.
Posted on December 27, 2010 at 10:09 am
Stephanie, I just had an idea. Well actually it was Olivier, who reminded me about Arcona's products. Have you tried them? I have just ordered the Peptide Firming Complex. Not sure if it would be a substitute for Replenish, but it has good actives and is in a similar price range.
Posted on December 31, 2010 at 12:53 pm
Hi Marta, I'm curious what you think of these two antioxidant serums, and would this be a viable alternative to Replenish or possibly a companion serum. They are nearly identical in their ingredients, but Sircuit Skin is priced higher.
Cosmedix Affirm: $78.00
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Aqua (Water), Peumus Boldus (D-boldine) Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Catalase, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG), D-alpha-tocopherol, Silicone, Heavy Water (Deuterium Oxide), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Resveratrol, Whey Protein, Thioredoxin, Xanthan Gum, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Glutathione (L), Superoxide Dismutase, D-beta-glucosamine, Aminoguanidine, Spin Trap (PBN), Fullersomes, Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil, Benzyl Alcohol
Sircuit Skin Addict $115.00
Ingredients:
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana) Extract, Glycine Soja, Distilled Water, D-Boldine,(Peumus Boldus) Extract, Vegetable Glycerin, Cassia Beta-Glycan (Cassia Angustifolia) Extract, Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis) Extract, Vitamin E (D-Alpha-Tocopherol), Silicone, (Deuterium Oxide) Heavy Water/D20, Grape Seed (Vitis Vinifera) Extract, Whey Protein, Xanthan Gum, L-Glutathione, L-Super-Oxide Dismu-Tase, D-Beta Glucosamine, L-Carmosine, Resveratrol/Polydatin, L-Asca-Ridole, Spin Trap, Fullersomes, Amino-L-Ascs-Ridole, Spin Trap, Fullersomes, Amino-Guanidine, Sandalwood (Santalum Album) Essential Oil, Grapefruit (Citrus Grandis) Essential Oil.
Posted on December 31, 2010 at 1:23 pm
Hi Lori, great find. Another product twin! The Cosmedix version looks very worthy of trying out. Peumus boldus extract is new to me and I just checked it out and it seems to be a potent antioxidant. The Cosmedix is available on Amazon.com for $48 so I ordered it. I'll come back with a post on this. Thanks Lori!
Posted on January 1, 2011 at 7:21 am
Hi Marta,
I've not tried anything from Arcona previously. I see that you've tried it before http://truthinaging.com/face/reviewed-and-recommended-arcona-peptide-firming-complex
Why did you stop? Has the formula changed since the last time you used it? I'm putting it on my shopping list. As soon as my bank balance perks up, I'll order it.
Happy New Year!
Stephanie
Posted on January 1, 2011 at 7:20 pm
I forgot to ask whether you or the rest of the TIA gang has any as of yet unreported acne spot treatments to recommend. My skin has been breaking out, and the pimples aren't responding to the treatments which worked previously, including the astara blue flame mask. I see lots of cleansers, but no recent effective spot treatments.
Thanks,
Stephanie
Posted on January 1, 2011 at 7:26 pm
Stephanie, I am using YBF Balance as spot treatment. I am in process of writing reviews for YBF Balance and Nourish. Balance cleared my acne in a matter of days. It is very drying to use all over the face but as a spot treatment it is excellent.
Posted on January 2, 2011 at 5:59 am
I agree with Isanna that Balance would be good. I also find Platinum's Blemish Treatment helpful: http://truthinaging.com/face/reviewed-and-recommended-acne-and-oily-skin-control-from-platinum
Posted on January 2, 2011 at 6:17 am
Thanks to Marta and Isanna! I'll report back....
Posted on January 3, 2011 at 2:04 pm
Hollis, I couldn't find any information on SILQ. I have however added an item on silicone fillers and on Permalip. Please point me in the direction of anything you think I should include.
Posted on January 6, 2011 at 2:33 pm
Georgia - Titan is a non ablative laser and I have added it to the laser entry in the post.
Posted on January 7, 2011 at 2:22 pm