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A regimen for a sleep-deprived 20-something

Is a Solution for:
Dry Skin, Oily Skin
February 3, 2012 Reviewed by Marta 12 Comments

Hi Marta,

I am 24 y/o and a DJ and hence spend a lot of time in nightclubs around smoke, alcohol etc and in sweat and makeup. My sleeping patterns are all over the place and I travel frequently by plane. When my skin gets stressed out it is prone to sagging particularly around the mouth and jaw line - firming and sculpting is high on my priority list as a result. My skin has always tended to be on the sensitive side, and although I had very oily, acne-prone skin in my teens its not as oily in my 20s anymore.

Currently I use:

Morning - Sukin Cleanser, MD Visage Toner, Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Treatment, Juice Beauty Tinted SPF Moisturiser

Night - Sukin Cleanser, MD Visage Toner, Murad Sleep Reform Serum, Peter Thomas Roth Power Rescue Facial Firming Lift. And weekly Juice Beauty Facial Peel - Sensitive.

Dear Sleep-deprived,

What you need is shut-eye, plenty of water and lots of leafy green vegetables! Just joking (well not really).  Although your profession exposes you to conditions that are a little extreme, this lifestyle challenge and the toll it takes on your skin is experienced by most 20-somethings. What is a little unusual is that your current regimen is already pretty sophisticated and you’ve gone out of your way to find quality products so that’s a great start. I would recommend a few changes though.

A cleanser is the one of the most important decisions for you because you don’t want to over-exfoliate or dry the skin out. Your lifestyle, the smoke, late nights, planes… are all relentlessly drying out your skin. For that reason, I don’t think you should use a toner twice a day. The one you are using is OK, but its not adding much. It has glycerin, which is good because it hydrates, but it is also exfoliates. Your biggest challenge is getting that balance right between exfoliating and hydrating.

Actually, the more I look at your current regimen, I think you are over-exfoliating. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Treatment is described as “microdermabrasion in a jar”. It has glycerin and glycolic and lactic acids. This is too much for everyday and in addition you have twice-daily toner and your weekly Juice Beauty peels.

For your day regimen, my suggestion is that the focus should be on hydrating and firming. I would tone down the toner to start with. Be sure your cleanser is not drying - you might want to pick a cream cleanser. Mad Hippie’s is nice. I would definitely replace the Skin Doctors (which also has a lot of harsh chemicals) with Your Best Face Restore – it has vitamin C, vitamin B, antioxidants and arbutin -- it does a great job of refreshing the complexion.  On days when your tinted moisturizer with SPF isn’t enough, you could try Suntegrity SPF30 as it is also a good hydrator.

I would stick with the weekly Juice Beauty peel – but don’t get tempted to increase the frequency. Another mask that would be very good for you is Tilvee’s Rejuvenating Masque with pomegranate. I think your skin would drink it in after a long night. It is a blend of fruit powder that you can mix with just water, or yoghurt for a tightening effect.

Your night creams – Murad and PTR – are OK, although I’m not sure why you’d need them both and, in my experience, these brands don’t really deliver on their promise. It would be worth looking at La Vie Celeste’s Day/Night cream as it has chronoline, which is an ingredient that is supposed to help the underlying skin structure (sort of scaffolding for the skin). Another skin firming option for your mouth and jawline area would be Osmotics Lipofill, as it is designed for firming around the labial nasal lines.

  • May 11, 2012

    by Lily

    Hi Martha,

    You're so right about SkinDoctors product. I was so naive on cosmetics, i bought every Skindoctors product thinking it was good as when i put it on an immediate result's seen. However this is just a cosmetic effect, in the long run i was actually speeding the aging with the harmful ingredients that is damaging the flow of nutrients etc to skin. I hope all young people would be educated, be aware before putting some of the products on to their skin. I still sometime use some product with harmful ingredients, i prefer not to but can't find some exact product, but very minimum. Now never buy those over the counter famous, big marketed products such as Lancome, YSL etc. it's full of harmfull chemicals. I don't know why do it if main objective is saving the skin.

  • May 8, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Dani, for an all-natural cleanser, quality ingredients at a good price, I'd recommend <a href="" rel="nofollow">100% Pure's Cucumber Cleanser</a>

  • May 7, 2012

    by Dani Valkova

    Aww thats a shame :( Is there another one you would recommend from the TIA Store for a sleep-deprived 20-something?

  • May 4, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Dani, we don't have it anymore - it was being sold on Amazon for prices that we couldn't match and so we discontinued it.

  • May 3, 2012

    by Dani Valkova

    Hey Marta is the Mad Hippie Cream Cleanser still available in the TIA store?

  • February 27, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Gales, we've reviewed a couple Dr Jart products:
    <a href="" rel="nofollow"></a>
    <a href="" rel="nofollow"></a>

  • February 27, 2012

    by Gale


    I'm 24 and now uses Dr. Jart's silver label BB Cream. What do you think about it? I'm Asian and have oily to combination skin, though I don't have break-outs (luckily).

    Thanks :)

  • February 12, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Ada, the Retin A and salicylic acid will cause dryness and it would be helpful if you could wean yourself off them. There are moisturizers that help control breakouts and they also deliver some antioxidants that will help with premature aging. A good one to try would be Your Best Face Balance, which has ingredients that will help acne as well as L-carnosine to help improve the skin's structure <a href="" rel="nofollow"></a> You could also look at La Vie Celeste's moisturizers as they are natural and have Chronoline that helps with skin's elasticity. Finally, I know its boring to say this, but drinking plenty of water and eating a ton of vegetables and fruit will also have a hugely positive effect.

  • February 12, 2012

    by Ada

    I am 22 years old and am already experiencing a rapid decline in my skin's elasticity. I use an organic moisturizer, Retin A 0.025 and salicylic acid for blackheads. The area around my eyes already had dryness and premature wrinkling, and I have hard creases; one on my forehead, two at the sides of my mouth and one where I get my single dimple. Other women around my age (who don't use sunscreen as frequently as I do) are doing FINE! I am Fitzpatrick IV so I'm fairly certain that it's not sun damage. What is causing my rapid decline?

  • February 9, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Trinh - first of all congratulations. And yes, I will give this some thought and come back with some ideas for you. Thanks for the suggestion!

  • February 9, 2012

    by Trinh

    Hi Marta,

    I am in my early 30's. 8 months pregnant. I am somewhat sleep deprived because of the uncomfortableness that is associated with being pregnant. In about a month, I can only imagine my sleep will be a lot less and lifestyle is probably more stressful and "less time" to myself. Can you give recommend a regime/products for women in their 30's who are in similar situation like I am (will be breastfeeding, don't have all the time in the world and need reasonable price skincare)?

    Much thanks!

  • February 7, 2012

    by Britney

    This is such a great article! I am about to turn 24 and my body is definitely exposed to a lot of stress. I go through many nights of little sleep because of studying late and working full time. I noticed a bit of sagging under my eyes and some acne here and there. I tried Juice Beauty's stem cell line and the repair eye treatment has visibly made the area around my eyes tighter! Their repair moisturizer is amazing too and feels light and refreshing. Juice Beauty is organic and great for your skin! Give these a try and good luck as we both live out our 20 somethings! :)

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