Hi Marta,

I am 24 y/o and a DJ and hence spend a lot of time in nightclubs around smoke, alcohol etc and in sweat and makeup. My sleeping patterns are all over the place and I travel frequently by plane. When my skin gets stressed out it is prone to sagging particularly around the mouth and jaw line - firming and sculpting is high on my priority list as a result. My skin has always tended to be on the sensitive side, and although I had very oily, acne-prone skin in my teens its not as oily in my 20s anymore.

Currently I use:

Morning - Sukin Cleanser, MD Visage Toner, Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Treatment, Juice Beauty Tinted SPF Moisturiser

Night - Sukin Cleanser, MD Visage Toner, Murad Sleep Reform Serum, Peter Thomas Roth Power Rescue Facial Firming Lift. And weekly Juice Beauty Facial Peel - Sensitive.

Dear Sleep-deprived,

What you need is shut-eye, plenty of water and lots of leafy green vegetables! Just joking (well not really).  Although your profession exposes you to conditions that are a little extreme, this lifestyle challenge and the toll it takes on your skin is experienced by most 20-somethings. What is a little unusual is that your current regimen is already pretty sophisticated and you’ve gone out of your way to find quality products so that’s a great start. I would recommend a few changes though.

A cleanser is the one of the most important decisions for you because you don’t want to over-exfoliate or dry the skin out. Your lifestyle, the smoke, late nights, planes… are all relentlessly drying out your skin. For that reason, I don’t think you should use a toner twice a day. The one you are using is OK, but its not adding much. It has glycerin, which is good because it hydrates, but it is also exfoliates. Your biggest challenge is getting that balance right between exfoliating and hydrating.

Actually, the more I look at your current regimen, I think you are over-exfoliating. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Treatment is described as “microdermabrasion in a jar”. It has glycerin and glycolic and lactic acids. This is too much for everyday and in addition you have twice-daily toner and your weekly Juice Beauty peels.

For your day regimen, my suggestion is that the focus should be on hydrating and firming. I would tone down the toner to start with. Be sure your cleanser is not drying - you might want to pick a cream cleanser. Mad Hippie’s is nice. I would definitely replace the Skin Doctors (which also has a lot of harsh chemicals) with Your Best Face Restore – it has vitamin C, vitamin B, antioxidants and arbutin -- it does a great job of refreshing the complexion.  On days when your tinted moisturizer with SPF isn’t enough, you could try Suntegrity SPF30 as it is also a good hydrator.

I would stick with the weekly Juice Beauty peel – but don’t get tempted to increase the frequency. Another mask that would be very good for you is Tilvee’s Rejuvenating Masque with pomegranate. I think your skin would drink it in after a long night. It is a blend of fruit powder that you can mix with just water, or yoghurt for a tightening effect.

Your night creams – Murad and PTR – are OK, although I’m not sure why you’d need them both and, in my experience, these brands don’t really deliver on their promise. It would be worth looking at La Vie Celeste’s Day/Night cream as it has chronoline, which is an ingredient that is supposed to help the underlying skin structure (sort of scaffolding for the skin). Another skin firming option for your mouth and jawline area would be Osmotics Lipofill, as it is designed for firming around the labial nasal lines.