When it comes to skin care, one whiff of the EU and I’m sold. Such was the case when I saw that Arosha Purifying & Regenerating Cream ($54) was Italian made. My obsession with EU products stems from the stricter ingredient regulations, which I think make for better formulations. And while I’m sure it’s true that a mainstream product sold in the EU is safer than a mainstream product sold here, this product trial has taught me that strict regulation doesn’t equal amazing formulation. This is where — with a heavy heart and bit of cringe, because I do hate doing this — I reject Arosha Purifying and Regenerating Cream, and tell those with sensitive skin to proceed with caution. This is not to say that it’s a terrible product, though.
Arosha Purifying & Regenerating Cream is a light, easy-absorbing cream that initially left my skin soft to the touch. But, in spite of the many emollients (many of which double as thickeners), my skin ended up feeling like it had all of the moisture, including the healthy oils, sucked out. In particular, my eye area was crepey and I had patches of eczema on my neck and left cheek. Now, here’s the thing: I do have sensitive skin and am prone to eczema, so to blame the irritation entirely on Arosha isn’t fair, it might work well for someone with a different skin type.
But even if my skin hadn’t reacted, I think Arosha would do well to make a cleaner, more concentrated formula. All but three ingredients rate very well according to EWG’s cosmetic database: benzyl salicylate, triethanolamine and linalool. It does have some pretty cool ingredients, some of which seem cutting edge, but these are buried beneath a lot of ingredients that feel like additives, including things like thickening agents and emulsifiers. So the good, I suspect, comes in small doses and a few of those thickening agents and emulsifiers were, for me, very irritating.
As mentioned, there are some good ingredients to be noted. Two of the most exciting are Siberian ginseng, which reduces wrinkles, tightens, firms and lifts skin, as well as free radical fighter brown algae elastin, which is rich in copper, selenium, zinc and vitamin C and also used for skin firming and wrinkle prevention. I also cautiously add copper gluconate to the exciting list; copper makes for some great products like Osmotics and Deciem Niod. However, copper gluconate is not the same as copper peptide, and I couldn’t find any information on whether or not copper gluconate has the same skin-lifting, wrinkle-erasing, stretch-mark-smoothing properties as copper peptide. There’s also soybean seed extract, which stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, and allantoin to promote cell regeneration. But again, these greats are floating in a soup of fairly average additives.
So back to my original point: While the ingredients in this Euro brand meet the EWG’s high standards, that doesn’t mean they’re great — in the same that Le Big Mac still isn’t a super-food. My conclusion on this product is that it’s definitely not for sensitive types like me or those who are finicky about their ingredients (also me), and that the average ingredients in this cream outweigh the good ones. Given the many wonderful products out there, many of which are more affordable, I’d give this one a pass.