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Ask an expert with Medik8's Rebecca Fine

August 31, 2017 Reviewed by Marta 0 Comments

Earlier this summer I was paid a visit by Medik8’s Director of Training, Rebecca Fine, a fellow Brit who calls the US home, Rebecca is as smart as she is charming. Medik8 is a British skincare company that I have been impressed with ever since (about five years ago!) I came across their unique copper peptide serum, Firewall. Medik8 continues to push the boundaries with, for example, new ways of formulating with retinol. I was privileged to take a deep dive on the Medik8 approach with Rebecca and get to share with the Truth In Aging community.

Marta: What is Medik8's philosophy for skincare and formulating?

Rebecca: In a nutshell, Medik8 believes in authenticity, transparency, and the ethics of proper formulation and marketing.  One of my personal attractions to this company is their commitment to remaining carbon neutral and crafting highly effective formulations with natural ingredients wherever possible.  The aspects that truly set Medik8 apart are found within the details.  Medik8 formulations are drilled down to including chirally correct molecules, ensuring bio-availability (meaning your skin uses ALL of the actives within instead of the typically very small percentage of the 'good stuff' with most lines) plus enhanced stability and time-release for maximum absorption with minimal irritation. This equates to usability for a considerably wider range of skin types: from the most sensitive, to the most easily pigmented.  Due to small batch production, Medik8 truly is a pioneer in the delivery the freshest possible professional strength product for the skin, a skincare experience akin to what one could expect when dining in a 5 Star Restaurant!

Marta: Medik8's products are backed by a lot of science, how would you advise the lay-woman to approach the products and learn what will work best for her?

Rebecca: Some consumers want to fully understand the science behind a product, others are comfortable knowing there is solid scientific back-up. Either way, one can benefit from the simplicity in selection with the Medik8 line immediately. All Medik8 products are designed to target specific skin concerns through a combination treatment approach for proven results. To this end, most Medik8 products are grouped within the most common skin issues: redness, blemishes, aging, pigmented. When skin exhibits varied issues, the Medik8 line can effectively be regimented a la carte, with many products working double time for multiple concerns, and interchanging without compromising efficacy.  To cut a long story short: start with your biggest issue and, if you don’t plan on replacing your entire routine, then replace the gap in your current system, i.e cleansing, moisture, targeted active. One can build from that.

Marta: What is the best way to apply an eye cream?

Rebecca: Using the ring-finger, as it applies the least amount of pressure, gently pat from the outside in to distribute the product most to least from the outside corner to the inside corner. Then, starting from the INSIDE to the outside, pat the product in, again with the ring-finger, until fully absorbed. This ensures the maximum volume of product goes to the largest area of skin, and where it is often needed most: the crow’s feet, and that the under-eye lymph is drained. Lymph can often pool under the eye leading to dark circles and puffiness, applying inside out drains the lymph through the proper channels and prevents too much product from potentially getting into the eye.

Marta: What do you recommend for evening out skin tone?

Rebecca: To even out skin-tone we have to also consider hormonal influence, heat, sun, professional treatments and inflammation in tandem with product selection. One can have their skincare routine on point and still see pigment when over exfoliated, experiencing hormonal fluctuations or when exposed to too much sun, or even heat. The latter being rather unfair I feel. Heat is often a trigger for pigment even when sun is avoided.  Think hot yoga, hot water, extended periods in the sun. The White Balance range from Medik8 is the go-to selection for pigment and can be used as an entire system or within a customized routine depending on the severity of the uneven-tone.  Without the use of controversial lightening chemicals the White Balance range effectively tackles seven routes to brightening the skin gently exfoliating, inhibiting pigment production and breaking down stubborn melanin deposits.  Couple the White Balance active of choice with a daily SPF and you have a great arsenal for more even skin.

Marta: Why do you recommend facial oils and how to incorporate them in a regimen?

Rebecca: Facial oils can offer a host of benefits. Believe it or not facial oils can actually help to balance out sebum production, clearing skin in some cases, and maintaining adequate skin barrier function in others. Medik8 Glow Oil can do both. Containing the best soluble form of Vitamin C to revitalize dull skin, Glow Oil also features Geranium Oil as a powerful astringent and skin toner, acting as an anti-bacterial agent for those with blemish concerns. With oils, the skin should be somewhat damp upon application. This locks in moisture and assists with distribution –a little goes a long way with oil, just a few drops is all that is required. Oily skinned clients will be surprised to discover that the correctly formulated facial oil can keep excessive oil at bay by almost convincing the skin that it’s adequately ‘oily’ and therefore doesn’t need to produce more.  Dry skins will recognize a plumpness, improved circulation and better retention of moisture. Sensitive skins can benefit from the anti-inflammatory properties of oils, plus, oils often can reduce the irritation associated with more active ingredients. Oils placed in the routine after serums and either with additional moisture or as a standalone hydrator.

Marta: What is your favorite Medik8 product and why?

Rebecca: That’s like asking me which of my trio is my favourite child! I appreciate all the products for their targeted use, however, I do love the speed at which beta Gel clears up blemishes…and of course beta-AOX assists with the management of blemishes while providing all the anti-aging benefits most other acne products are missing….then again, r-Retinoate gives 8x the power of retinol without the typical irritation alongside a whole host of anti-aging benefits, it’s a real multi-tasker. Then there's Firewall with it’s powerhouse of anti-oxidants and the Cusodase-P Complex which can be helpful for sagging, aging skin. Of course I do have a penchant for anything containing ‘sweet orange’ therefore I love the Cream Cleanser with its gentle mandelic exfoliant and magical scent. See, I can’t pick.

Marta: What is the skincare mistake that people should avoid?

Rebecca: The biggest skincare mistake people should avoid is choosing products that are not suitable for their skin. What works for your oily friend may not work for sensitive you and visa versa. We went through dark days in skincare where the focus was on heavy exfoliation for all skin types leading to stripped, compromised and irritated faces.  Knowing your skin type and working to support your own individual skin’s needs with highly targeted, effective and gentle products can truly bring out the best in skin.

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