It is nearly a year ago since I first came across Azure Cosmeceuticals Hydropeptide Serum. I was excited to see a sophisticated concoction of peptides and epidermal growth factors and I was about to whip out my credit card when I looked further down the ingredients list and my purchase was put off by triethanolamine, silicones and phenoxyethanol. Then a few weeks ago, Azure sent me the Hydropeptide Serum ($130) and it seems to have been reformulated to appeal to my flexible friend (although there is still one silicone and the phenoxyethanol is a bit high up the list for my liking). I have been testing it ever since and have noticed a smoother, brighter complexion, diminishing fine lines and a more even skin tone.

What makes this serum special, is that like ReLuma and A&G, the actives are growth factors, essential to formation of new skin. As part of the first response to injury, for example, platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF) and transforming growth factor-beta (TGF-beta) are released and ensure that cells get their act into gear. They can also prevent cancer cells from developing. Here again, the formula has changed slightly and the new serum has three growth factors: transforming growth factor-1 (TFG- 1), human oligopeptide-11 and human oligopeptide-1m (also known as epidermal growth factors.

There is also something called Syn-tacks, which promises to give Matrixyl 3000 a run for its money by stimulating a broad spectrum of things responsible for youthful skin – laminin V, collagen types IV, VII and XVII and integrin – all at once. Syn-tacks is made from two synthetic peptides, one of which is palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine.

There are plenty of well known antioxidants such as green tea, rice bran and oats. In addition, there is hibiscus esculentus, which is okra. Those who detest okra’s glutinous texture will be thankful that it is good for something. it has botanical peptides that combat wrinkles in a similar way to the botulinic toxin (Botox), by inhibiting the movement of facial muscles responsible for the appearance of expression lines on the face.

More than a nauseating song from The Sound of Music,  edelweiss contains phytochemicals such as chlorogenic acid (antioxidant, radical scavenging), luteolin (hyaluronidase inhibition), bisabolane  (anti-inflammatory) and beta sitosterol (anti-inflammatory, antibactericidal).

Azure has definitely come up with a superior product and this lightweight, easily absorbed cream should be considered by 40 and 50-somethings.

Ingredients in the new formula

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol/Propylheptyl Caprylate, Hydrolyzed Oats, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glycereth-26, Menthyl Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Glutamyl Heptapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Transforming Growth Factor 1, Human Oligopeptide-11, Human Oligopeptide-1m, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Colostrum Whey, Dextrin, Leontopodium Alpinum (Edelweiss) Extract, Acetyl Tyrosine, Dimethyl MEA (DMAE), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Aspartate, Squalane, Cetearyl Glucoside, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Simmondsia, Chinensis Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose Stearoxy Ether

Ingredients in the old formula

Water, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Hydrolyzed Oats, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Dextrin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Dipeptide Diaminobutyrooyl Benzylamide Diaceate, Acetyl Glutamyl Heptapeptide-3, Dimethyl MEA, Acetyl Tyrosine, Dipropylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Recombinant Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), Recombinant Transforming Growth Factor-â1 (TFG- â1), Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF), Butylene Glycol, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Menthyl Lactate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Polysorbate 60, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Thiotic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben