tiger nuts

There some IT ingredients that most of us have heard of and most of us do a little research, establish credentials and then search out products with them. You’ve probably been down this road with things like Matrixyl and sodium hyaluronate, or even growth factors. Great formulators, however, are always look for the next IT ingredient and are working at the cutting edge. For us consumers, it can be a bit disconcerting to see new (sometimes unpronounceable) ingredients and figure out what they do, let alone love and trust them. So I decided to round up some of the best anti-aging ingredients you’ve never heard of so that you can be ahead of the IT curve as well.

Preventhelia

A tetrapeptide that protects the skin from UV light. It works very specifically by neutralizing 4-HNE, nasty free radical that is known for causing oxidative stress. Actually, it is amongst the most prolific and cytotoxic of the free radicals. The cool thing about Preventhelia is that it prevents future damage and, therefore, may guard against future aging. It can protect DNA from UVA-induced damage by 69% (source) and promote its own repair system. Find it in the newly formulated Your Best Face Defend ($130 in the shop)

Colhibin

From rice protein, it prevents collagenase (also known as MMP), one of the main culprits in early aging. When collagenases are triggered by sun (UV) light, they break down collagen. Enter Colhibin to stop them in their tracks and prevent premature skin aging. Find it in the newly formulated Your Best Face Defend ($130 in the shop)

Darutoside

I gave this a call out in my recent post on high-tech breakthroughs. Darutoside is made from extracts from two plants, gotu kola and siegesbeckia. It is an anti-inflammatory and skin repairer and it is even claimed that it will make stretch marks go away. I haven’t found any independent research on the latter, but there is evidence that siegesbeckia will inhibit inflammatory mediators. You’ll find it in Deciem Hylamide SubQ Eyes ($35 in the shop) and Elena Rubin Remedy ($119 in the shop)

Tiger nut

Denigrated as a pesky weed, tiger nut (pictured above) has recently been recognized as a valuable food and medicine. It is 82% unsaturated fatty acids and is rich in vitamin E. It is supposed to reinforce the papillary dermis, responsible for elasticity and cohesion of the skin. You can find it in Stemulation’s new Drench moisturizer ($195 in the shop).

Mu-conotoxin Cniiic

I predict you’ll start to see more of this. It is toxin from a sea snail that is worth Googling as it is a flamboyantly patterned creature. It recently got the attention of medical science when it was discovered that it’s venom could be used as a powerful painkiller. Cone snail venom is packed with peptides (as much as 100 different peptides in every snail) and in small amounts these neurotoxins prevent muscle contractions.You can find it in Deciem NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour ($68 in the shop)

Symhelios

Another one that is getting more traction these days. Personally I find SymHelios (intimidatingly listed as benzylidene dimethoxydimethylinadanone) fascinating. In brief, it stops UVB rays from forming a toxic substance to form in our skin. It is even supposed to protect our skin from cigarette smoke and car exhaust fumes. UVB rays cause long term skin damage because they cause an amino acid, tryptophan, to form a toxic substance. This toxin binds to a protein in our bodies called the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) where it wreaks havoc by destroying collagen and elastin, creating oxidative stress and potentially leading to skin cancers. Enter SymHelios. This binds to the AhR, preventing UVB radiation. Find it in Soleil Toujours Daily Anti-Aging Power Serum ($145 in the shop)

Tepezcohuite

This extract, which is made from the bark of a tree (mimosa tenuiflora) found in Latin America, is said to protect the body’s natural hyaluronic acid while stimulating the production of elastin and collagen. Wondering how to pronounce it? Altogether now, te-pez-co-wheety. Even Salma Hayak hasn’t yet made it famous, but with antioxidant tannins, healing properties and even the ability (so it is said) to grow hair, it is worth looking out for. Find it in ASDM Beverly Hills Tepez Regenerating Serum ($45 in the shop)