Sometimes one wonders if the world really does need a new eye cream. But I’ve thought for a long time (about 20 years actually) that the beauty industry had yet to create a really great vitamin C serum. Now Your Best Face has and it wins Truth In Aging’s 2012 award for the Best New Product Launch (click here for more on the 2012 awards).


Your Best Face Advanced CE Concentrate

Vitamin C serums are not easy to get right. Although vitamin C is a potent antioxidant and fighter of hyperpigmentation, it is a notoriously unstable ingredient that can be drying and irritating for sensitive skin. Typically, I find C serums to be either to harsh to use or so dumbed down that they are useless. Now there is finally a vitamin C serum that is up to the task.

Your Best Face Advanced CE Concentrate ($50 in the shop) has been formulated for simplicity and focus. It has no less than three forms of vitamin C, chosen for their stability and performance, and a dose of vitamin E. And that’s about it.

The three Cs are tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate/MAP and aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate/AAP. The first of these, tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a vitamin C derivative. It is stable, due to being fat soluble and less irritating than ascorbyl acid. One study published in Dermatologic Surgery in 2002 showed that a topical formulation combining 10% vitamin C and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate improved hydration and collagen synthesis in the skin and resulted in “clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling” after 12 weeks. A more recent study declared that it actually prevent UV damage occurring.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is similar to ascorbic acid in that it is water-soluble. However, it also has what AA lacks: a gentle effect on skin, efficacy in lower concentrations, and stability at a neutral pH. And the third, aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate/AAP, is a relatively new derivative of Vitamin C, that is often preferred for having superior stability and effectiveness. It’s particularly lauded for reducing melanin production – the culprit behind age spots, melasma and hyperpigmentation.

Your Best Face formulates sophisticated and complex products (think Correct and Control). With Advanced CE Concentrate they have kept it simple and got it right. The launch just before Thanksgiving missed our 2012 Five Best Serums with Vitamin C, so its nice to be able to give YBF an accolade before next year's update.

Congratulations Your Best Face and Advanced CE Concentrate for winning our 2012 Best New Product Launch of the Year