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Celazome N45 with a new collagen building peptide

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin
July 14, 2010 Reviewed by Marta 5 Comments
I spotted Celazome N45 Firming Peptide Cream ($139) that claims to be a 45% concentration of peptides and bioactives. The cynic in me immediately wondered what was in the other 55%.

My more generous nature came to the fore and I looked at the actives first. It proved worthwhile. Two are well known, but a third is a peptide that is new to me. Celazome N45 has Matrixyl 3000, the collagen stimulating combination of two peptides, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. It also has the neuropeptide that limits muscle movement and formation of expression lines, acetyle hexapeptide-8, known as Argireline. More interesting is acetyl tetrapeptide-9, which also goes by the name of Dermican.

The starting point for how acetyl tetrapeptide-9, works is the role played by things called proteoglycans. These are protein-sugar (glycosaminoglycan chains) complexes that are involved with collagen fibers. Acetyl tetrapeptide-9 targets one in particular, called lumican that is involved in both the synthesis of collagen fibrils and their organization into functional fibers, ensuring the integrity of the extra-cellular matrix.

As always, there are no independent studies. But the manufacturer of Dermican claims that in the stimulation of collagen I synthesis, it showed increases of 49% and 112% at 2.2 and 7.4 μg/ml respectively. So effectiveness seems to be dose dependent.

The rest of Celazome N45 is unremarkable. The dominant ingredient is squalane (whether from shark or olive we are not told and there is an anti-inflammatory amino acid called palmitoyl proline, which you can also find in Cindy Crawford’s Meaningful Beauty. There is a useful botanical called rumex occidentalis, which is meant to prevent age spots by inhibiting tyronase production. Celazome buyers will be pleased to know that this plant is in Euoko’s skin whitener that costs $710 for a months’s supply.

There are a few things in that I’d rather not encounter – propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea and triethanolamine, plus a few fillers that I’d be wasting my money on – various fatty alcohols, copolymers and emulsifiers. Still I’m a sucker for a new peptide and I’m tempted to try this. Has anyone else yet?

Ingredients: De-ionized Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Proline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Coco-Glucoside, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol Diazolydinyl Urea/iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Fragrance
  • October 25, 2011

    by Marta

    Hi Jennifer, I haven't tried it. I am increasingly skeptical of claims for high concentrations of actives - 45% in this case. Matrixyl, for example, is clinically tested at less than 4% so it seems implausible. But if you do try it, please let us know how it goes.

  • October 25, 2011

    by Jennifer E

    Marta, did you ever try this product? I see that they are running a pretty good special on it, as well as on the cream you used for your hands, on link is: Considering giving it a try!

  • July 16, 2010

    by Celazome

    @Laura thanks for your kind words, we love interacting with everyone!

    On the squalane/squalene, it is true... very subtle difference in spelling.

  • July 16, 2010

    by Laura

    Just chiming in on how Celezome answered our questions on their blog. It was very cool of them to do so!
    Their squalane is from olives, "Sqaulane is an ingredient we use in the N45 Firming Peptide Cream which is derived from olives."

    Is that shark squalane/squalene thing really true?

  • July 14, 2010

    by Celazome

    Thanks for your interest in Celazome's N45 Firming Peptide Cream. Unfortunately we could not answer all of your questions and points in the comment box, so we replied in a blog post-

    Please let us know if we can clarify anything. We appreciate your interest in our products :)

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