I have never been completely convinced by the face freezing peptides, such as Argireline, that claim to be a Botox in jar solution to anti-aging. Can a topical cream really signal muscles to move less and, thereby, inhibit the formation expression lines? Or do these potions merely give the impression of working mostly by clinging to the surface of the skin. After three weeks or so of testing Cellbone Hyper-Peptides ($76), I am a convert. My skin is tighter, has a nice glow and my forehead lines are more indistinct than they have been for the past ten years (although I am using it in tandem with other products - more on the regime a few paragraphs on).
Cellbone Hyper-Peptides has most of the ‘Botox in a jar‘ products known to man. Argireline is well known as the peptide that stops facial muscles from moving and causing expression lines. Although there are studies that show that a 10% concentration over 30 days can reduce the appearance of wrinkles by 30%, some cosmetologists seem to think that Argireline would be most effective at concentrations as high as 25%. I mention this because it is the second ingredient in Cellbone Hyper-Peptides after water. Still, Cellbone seems to be hedging its bets by including SNAP-8, created by Kinerase, is being marketed as the second generation of Argireline, and is said to be 30% more effective. Then there is Syn-ake, supposedly a mimicer of snake venom.
It is worth getting to know a bit more about these peptides. Collectively known as neuropeptides, they do not work like Botox. They don't destroy the protein, like Botox does, but keep it from connecting to the cell and turning on the muscle contraction. Paula Begoun (The Cosmetic Cop) made the comment that if they worked then the fingers you used to apply these creams wouldn't function with dire consequences for teacups or your ability to hold the steering wheel of a car. Sounds like plain old common sense, but as I've looked into it (and Erin, our own ingredients guru, has written a post on Botox in a jar ingredients), I have a different understanding of how neuropeptides work.They are small protein-like molecules used by neurons to communicate with each other. Neuropeptides can be used to target cells, communicate with them, and get them to perform specific tasks, like to repair and renew aging skin cells by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin. Our skin is naturally full of neuropeptides, but as we age, the count drops (Source). While Botox smooths wrinkles by paralyzing the muscles through an injection of a solution derived from the botulism toxin, topical ‘Botox’ alternatives attempt to phone in the request to the cells to do the work themselves. So they are not muscle relaxants that cause everything to sag at all. Back to Cellbone Hyper-Peptides. While all these neuropeptides are supposedly stopping the formation of new wrinkles and the deepening of existing ones, Matrixyl 3000 is boosting the formation of new collagen. Gotu kola (centella asiatica), idebenone and bilberry are providing the antioxidant role. Then there are several alpha hydroxy acids – cane and maple sugars and citrus fruit extracts.
I have decided to supplement Cellbone Hyper-Peptides with serums that provide additional actives such as carnosine (an extender of the number of times cells replace themselves). So every other day or so, I apply GloTherapeutics or Azure Hydropeptide over the Cellbone. In the evenings, I use YBF's Restore. I have a feeling that a new regime is emerging. I'll refine it a bit and report back on it soon.