Chella, whose Master Protocol is an anti-aging serum that I was very impressed with, just sent me samples of their lash and brow growth products that both go out of their way to proclaim that they are prostaglandin free. Instead, Chella Lash Full-Fillment ($90) and Chella Brow Full-Fillment ($90) major on ergothioneine, which is something of a signature ingredient for the company.

Prostaglandins are glaucoma drugs that have the happy side effect of making your eyelashes grow and the unhappy effect of changing the color of your eyes, causing irritation or even harming vision. It is in products such as RapidLash and Latisse (which the FDA forced to carry a lengthy warning about potential side effects).

Most non-prostaglandin lash growth products focus on a peptide or growth factor. However, Chella Lash Full-Fillment seems to rely on a combination of botanicals, amino acids and vitamins, rather than a specific active. Ergothioneine is an antioxidant amino acid that occurs naturally in the body and is found in high concentrations around cells that are subjected to free radical damage. However, I don’t think it has a critical role here and, in fact, I haven’t been able to fine any information on it that would link it to hair growth.  More promising is inositol, a member of the B vitamin family and high levels can lead to healthy hair and aid in hair growth. B vitamins in general make an important contribution to hair health and the B battalion is out in force with biotin, niacin, panthenol and pyridoxine Hcl.

Hydrolized lupine protein seems to be an intelligent inclusion (it is also in Beauticontrol’s eyelash growth product. For example, hydrolized protein is often used in hair products because it is supposed to penetrate the hair. Here the hydrolyzed protein is from the seeds of the lupine plant, which contains all the essential amino acids and is high in those that combat premature aging.  Not only is this protein a good antistatic and skin conditioner, but it also has restructuring and regenerating properties.

Chella’s Brow Full-Fillment has a similar formulation to Lash, but also features biotinoyl tripeptide-1. This is supposed to slow aging effects by lessening the production of dihydrotestosterone (DHT) to improve the irrigation of the hair follicle. Studies (by the company) showed the product to: increase hair growth enhance adhesion molecules stimulate hair strengthening genes increase the proportion of anagen hair.

I really do question the use of triethonolamine, especially in a product used near the eyes. Animal studies show sense organ effects at very low doses, especially when used around the mouth, eyes and lips. Nonetheless, I’ll be trying out Chella’s lash batter and brow beater next month and I will, of course, report back.

Ingredients in Lash

Water (Aqua), Ergothioneine, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Denatured Alcohol, Milk Protein, Lactose, Inositol, Acetyl Cystein, Acetyl Methionine, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Ppg-26-Buteth-26, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Panthenol (Provitamin B5), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Niacin, Pyridoxine Hcl, Biotin, Algae Extract, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Ulva Lactuca Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Pca, Sorbitol, Proline, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Saccharomuces/Zinc Ferment, Simmondsia Chinesis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthum Gum, Triethonolamine, Disodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Castor Oil, Potassium Cla Glutathionate, Sodium Dna

Ingredients in Brow

Water, Butylene Glycol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Apigenin, Oleanolic Acid, Biotinoly Tripeptide-1, Ergothioneine. Alcohol Denate, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Milk Protein, Lactose, Inositol, Acetyl Cysteine, Acetyl Methionine, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Hydrolized Lupine Protein, Propylene Glycol, Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, Liminaria Digitata Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Panthenol, Retinyl Palmitate, Niacin, Pyridoxine HCL, Biotin, Algae Extract, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Ulva Lactuca Extract, Grape Seed Extract, Rosemary Extract, Thymus Vulgaris, Pueraria Lobata Root, Horse chestnut Seed, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Sorbitol, Proline, Hydrolized Glycos Amino Glycans, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Joboba Seed Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolomine, Disodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol.