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Collametics Daily Renewal Serum- reviewed and recommended

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin
September 10, 2010 Reviewed by Marta 21 Comments

As I mentioned in an earlier post, when I first saw the ingredients list for Collametics Daily Renewal Serum ($100), I assumed it was incomplete. Not so, this collagen building formula gets straight to the point with a high dose of vitamin C and amino acids.  I have been testing it for just over four weeks and this is one of the best vitamin C serums that I have found.

Some context is required for this statement. My skin doesn’t especially like vitamin C serums and can become very dry and even breakout. I did have a small breakout in the first 10 days of using Collametics and it tingled on application. However, it wasn’t drying and my skin was generally looking good so I persevered in the hope that my skin would get used to it. Very soon it did and I shall happily continue to finish the bottle (for what could be another three of four months judging by the amount left after a month’s use).

My immediate impression of this serum’s effects is that it makes the skin look clearer and brighter. According to Collametics, it is designed to build collagen with inclusion of two amino acids. Proline,makes up one-sixth of collagen and can break down protein to help create healthy cells and connective tissues. L-lysine also plays an important role in collagen production, according to the University of Maryland, and is also supposed to play a synergistic role with vitamin C. Copper gluconate promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

The pithy ingredients list also includes glucosyl hesperidin, which improves blood circulation and may stimulate the surface circulation of the skin. The only thing I don’t like is zinc gluconate, which The Cosmetics Database considers a moderate hazard ingredient based on concerns regarding developmental and reproductive toxicity, allergic reactions, and organ system toxicity.

I find that I usually need to add something moisturizing above the Collametrics Serum. If not, my skin looks a little dry – although it feels soft and supple. I wasn’t all that enamored with Collametrics Daily Renewal Cream ($100).  The cream has the same actives plus calcium, but in a more typical (and, frankly, not especially appealing base of silicones with the preservatives phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate.  I have up on it after a couple of weeks and I have been using the serum with Skin Nutrition’s Cell CPR. This combo’s results are so good that I am apt to give my skin an approving nod when I look in a mirror.

Collametrics told me that they are reviewing the cream’s formula. If it could be as potent and focused as the serum (perhaps sans zinc gluconate), they will have a duo worthy of any wrinkle warrior’s bathroom cabinet.

Ingredients in serum

Water, propanediol, L-ascorbic, L-glycine, L-proline, L-Lysine, glucosyl hesperidin, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, silica

  • February 21, 2012

    by Marta

    That's interesting Cristina. So should we be looking for Dehydroascorbic Acid in cosmetic products?

  • February 21, 2012

    by christina

    Marta- I found this...

    One of the most misunderstood terms by people seeking Vitamin C skincare products is the word "oxidized." It is a term used in chemistry to describe a transfer of electrons. AA becomes DHAA by being oxidized. In most skincare products, AA can easily be oxidized to DHAA. Unfortunately, in their products, DHAA very rapidly decomposes in a complex series of additional chemical reactions. Therefore many people have come to equate the "oxidation" of AA in a product with the "decay, destruction, or decomposition" of the Vitamin C. And in most products, that is true.

    But in fact, the oxidized form has many properties that make it superior for topical use! So it is incorrect to say that oxidized Vitamin C is the same as decomposed Vitamin C.

    Dehydroascorbic Acid (DHAA) is the oxidized form of Vitamin C; it is one of the two naturally-occurring forms. The oxidation of Ascorbic Acid (AA) to DHAA explains the powerful anti-oxidant activity of AA. DHAA can be converted back into AA by the body, so Vitamin C is "recycled." Unfortunately though, the molecules themselves eventually break down, so the body requires a continuous supply of more Vitamin C.

    DHAA has two chemical properties that make it superior to AA for topical use. Namely, DHAA is not ionized in solution, and it is more lipophilic than AA. These properties mean it is more gentle and can penetrate the stratum corneum more easily. DHAA also has three biological properties that make it superior. Namely, it is absorbed by cells much more quickly than AA, it can be absorbed by all cell types whereas AA can only be absorbed by some cell types, and thirdly it can be absorbed to higher levels in cells. These biological properties result from the way the body naturally absorbs AA and DHAA into the cells, namely via "transporters."

  • February 14, 2012

    by christina

    Hi Marta, I never received your response till just now. Thank you so much, although this still proves to be a confusing matter lol Please let me know any additional info you find, and I will continue my search as well.

  • February 13, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Christina, I left this comment for you yesterday: Hi Christina, I think that the confusion stems from the fact that there are two forms of oxidized vitamin C.
    1) Ascorbic acid in the human body by the enzyme L-ascorbate oxidase. Or it can be artificially doubly oxidized to the stable form called dehydroascorbic acid. This, I think, is in your cream. Although there is one study linking it to cancer, there are many more showing that it is an effective antioxidant
    2. When vitamin C comes into contact with air/light it oxidizes and it is this that is said to be harmful

  • February 13, 2012

    by christina

    Hi Marta! Any luck?

  • February 12, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Christina, I think that the confusion stems from the fact that there are two forms of oxidized vitamin C.
    1) Ascorbic acid in the human body by the enzyme L-ascorbate oxidase. Or it can be artificially doubly oxidized to the stable form called dehydroascorbic acid. This, I think, is in your cream. Although there is one study linking it to cancer, there are many more showing that it is an effective antioxidant
    2. When vitamin C comes into contact with air/light it oxidizes and it is this that is said to be harmful

    I am going to keep researching, but in the meantime, I hope this helps

  • February 7, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Christina, I'll do some hunting around later this week and get back to you.

  • February 7, 2012

    by christina

    Marta? Is there any place I can find more research on oxidized vit c? I have spent countless hours looking online, but all i find is that it is bad for the skin,,,,, but it cant be-because my skin is improving!!

  • February 1, 2012

    by christina

    Very interesting! So general knowledge believes that vitamin c has to be unoxidized in order to be effective, but....the body actually oxidizes it before it can utilize it anyways???!!! God, I am so confused! Any way we can get to the bottom of this? I would love your help. :)

  • January 31, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Christina, I wasn't aware that the vitamin C in Catalyst was oxidized. However, it is true that the body does oxidize vitamin C to become dehydroascorbate (DHAA) and it can then be transported more effectively across the cell membrane. This takes place in the intestine and I don't know if the same is true if applied topically.

  • January 31, 2012

    by christina

    Marta- thank you for your response! May I ask you your opinion on oxidized vit c, which is what is in oSMOSIS catalyst (and I am guessing the Collametics serum as well)? I asked Ben Johnson and this was his response...

    "The oxidized C is working on the skin because it is oxidizing the aminos in the bottle which is what it would do in the skin if it were not oxidized."

    He also stated they are coming out with a new serum, Catalyst Plus, and that will have unoxidized C and is coming out in a few weeks.

  • January 29, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Christina
    You are right the formulas are very similar. In fact, in my review of <a href="" rel="nofollow">Osmosis Catalyst</a> I mentioned this saying"
    I know that some of you have noticed that Catalyst is very similar to a product called Collametics, which was made by someone called Kevin Meehan. I asked Osmosis about this and it turns out that Mr Meehan was behind Catalyst and Osmosis is the exclusive distributor."

  • January 29, 2012

    by christina

    These are almost the EXACT same ingredients as Osmosis Catalyst, with the exception of glucosyl hesperidin. Both formulas have 10% vit c as well. Marta gives glowing reviews on this, but bashes the Osmosis. How interesting. Hmmm!

  • July 13, 2011

    by Marta

    Junko loves the E'shee Vit C as well. I shall be trying it too.

  • July 13, 2011

    by Pam

    My favorite Vitamin C product is still E'Shee and probably always will be but I know the expense for the little amount is hard to take and the thickness of it means it does not go very far but it has been the only one that actually did make my skin smoother and appear not as thin, which is its job. It never stings and feels wonderful and has a release system that will keep it from ever degrading. However, I too have had to try others because of the expense and am still trying, along with the E'Shee. I may have to try this one. I don't think I will ever find one that works as well and feels as well as their's but if I could get triple the amount for the money, I would never leave it. Junko I think is the one that has reviewed it in the past also and loved it at that time also but she I am sure knows about the cost of E'Shee also as being one pitfall in that some just can not afford it I know. And I meant to mention it has 20% of the "L" type vitamin C. Now, she (head of E'Shee) has told me because of the strength and it is kind of like a time-release product, I only had to use every other night so that does help.

  • June 13, 2011

    by frosty

    worst stuff I've ever used. stained everything (clothes, bed linens, skin), made my pores look huge (by filling them with the dark brown liquid), and felt grimy on my face. used for 3 weeks, saw NO difference whatsoever. WHAT a waste of money.

  • November 8, 2010

    by Naja

    My vitamin c staple is Cellex-C Advanced C Skin Tightening Serum or Cream. Among other ingredients, it contains 17.5% L-Ascorbic Acid. This product does not degrade like other vitamin c products and comes with an expiration date, which makes it easier to determine whether the product is still potent.

    Cellex-C does a really nice job of tightening and firming my skin. The skin on my face and neck is even toned, smooth and plump.

    Vitamin c products can be a bit of a crap shoot. It seems like there is a new one every day. Whenever I have experimented with other brands, I have always regretted it. Cellex-C works well with other products, such as Retin-A and glycolic acid.

    Cellex-C was the first company to offer vitamin c as a cosmepharmaceutical product and its products have stood the test of time. I've been a loyal user for ten years.

  • September 23, 2010

    by Lisa Lawrence

    The coupon code is actually 50off. As of today, it's still effective.

  • September 16, 2010

    by Jill

    I believe it is around 10%. I think it lasts around 6 mos, but I always use it up in a month and a half or so. I absolutely love it! I just wish the cream were a little more "clean", but I still like how it feels on my skin.

    I heard they are going to airless containers so that should help the longevity! I'm really excited to see that!

  • September 15, 2010

    by Sharon

    What is the % of Vit C in this serum?

  • September 10, 2010

    by Jana

    I'm interested in how this serum performs and like its promise of increasing elasticity, among other qualities. I am wondering, however, if the Vitamin C will last another 3 to 4 months? One of the problems of Vit C serums, particularly with the L-Ascorbic form, is that they degrade quickly (at least that's been my experience). I hope this one lasts and am looking forward to finding out if it does stay good for 3 to 4 months or do you perhaps know already if another of the ingredients will help it be stable for that length of time? Thanks for the review, btw.

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