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Collametics Daily Renewal Serum- reviewed and recommended

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin
Reviewed by Marta September 10, 2010 21 Comments

As I mentioned in an earlier post, when I first saw the ingredients list for Collametics Daily Renewal Serum ($100), I assumed it was incomplete. Not so, this collagen building formula gets straight to the point with a high dose of vitamin C and amino acids.  I have been testing it for just over four weeks and this is one of the best vitamin C serums that I have found.

Some context is required for this statement. My skin doesn’t especially like vitamin C serums and can become very dry and even breakout. I did have a small breakout in the first 10 days of using Collametics and it tingled on application. However, it wasn’t drying and my skin was generally looking good so I persevered in the hope that my skin would get used to it. Very soon it did and I shall happily continue to finish the bottle (for what could be another three of four months judging by the amount left after a month’s use).

My immediate impression of this serum’s effects is that it makes the skin look clearer and brighter. According to Collametics, it is designed to build collagen with inclusion of two amino acids. Proline,makes up one-sixth of collagen and can break down protein to help create healthy cells and connective tissues. L-lysine also plays an important role in collagen production, according to the University of Maryland, and is also supposed to play a synergistic role with vitamin C. Copper gluconate promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

The pithy ingredients list also includes glucosyl hesperidin, which improves blood circulation and may stimulate the surface circulation of the skin. The only thing I don’t like is zinc gluconate, which The Cosmetics Database considers a moderate hazard ingredient based on concerns regarding developmental and reproductive toxicity, allergic reactions, and organ system toxicity.

I find that I usually need to add something moisturizing above the Collametrics Serum. If not, my skin looks a little dry – although it feels soft and supple. I wasn’t all that enamored with Collametrics Daily Renewal Cream ($100).  The cream has the same actives plus calcium, but in a more typical (and, frankly, not especially appealing base of silicones with the preservatives phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate.  I have up on it after a couple of weeks and I have been using the serum with Skin Nutrition’s Cell CPR. This combo’s results are so good that I am apt to give my skin an approving nod when I look in a mirror.

Collametrics told me that they are reviewing the cream’s formula. If it could be as potent and focused as the serum (perhaps sans zinc gluconate), they will have a duo worthy of any wrinkle warrior’s bathroom cabinet.

Ingredients in serum

Water, propanediol, L-ascorbic, L-glycine, L-proline, L-Lysine, glucosyl hesperidin, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, silica

  • February 21, 2012

    by Marta

    That's interesting Cristina. So should we be looking for Dehydroascorbic Acid in cosmetic products?

  • February 21, 2012

    by christina

    Marta- I found this...


    One of the most misunderstood terms by people seeking Vitamin C skincare products is the word "oxidized." It is a term used in chemistry to describe a transfer of electrons. AA becomes DHAA by being oxidized. In most skincare products, AA can easily be oxidized to DHAA. Unfortunately, in their products, DHAA very rapidly decomposes in a complex series of additional chemical reactions. Therefore many people have come to equate the "oxidation" of AA in a product with the "decay, destruction, or decomposition" of the Vitamin C. And in most products, that is true.

    But in fact, the oxidized form has many properties that make it superior for topical use! So it is incorrect to say that oxidized Vitamin C is the same as decomposed Vitamin C.

    Dehydroascorbic Acid (DHAA) is the oxidized form of Vitamin C; it is one of the two naturally-occurring forms. The oxidation of Ascorbic Acid (AA) to DHAA explains the powerful anti-oxidant activity of AA. DHAA can be converted back into AA by the body, so Vitamin C is "recycled." Unfortunately though, the molecules themselves eventually break down, so the body requires a continuous supply of more Vitamin C.

    DHAA has two chemical properties that make it superior to AA for topical use. Namely, DHAA is not ionized in solution, and it is more lipophilic than AA. These properties mean it is more gentle and can penetrate the stratum corneum more easily. DHAA also has three biological properties that make it superior. Namely, it is absorbed by cells much more quickly than AA, it can be absorbed by all cell types whereas AA can only be absorbed by some cell types, and thirdly it can be absorbed to higher levels in cells. These biological properties result from the way the body naturally absorbs AA and DHAA into the cells, namely via "transporters."


  • February 14, 2012

    by christina

    Hi Marta, I never received your response till just now. Thank you so much, although this still proves to be a confusing matter lol Please let me know any additional info you find, and I will continue my search as well.

  • February 13, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Christina, I left this comment for you yesterday: Hi Christina, I think that the confusion stems from the fact that there are two forms of oxidized vitamin C.
    1) Ascorbic acid in the human body by the enzyme L-ascorbate oxidase. Or it can be artificially doubly oxidized to the stable form called dehydroascorbic acid. This, I think, is in your cream. Although there is one study linking it to cancer, there are many more showing that it is an effective antioxidant
    2. When vitamin C comes into contact with air/light it oxidizes and it is this that is said to be harmful

  • February 13, 2012

    by christina

    Hi Marta! Any luck?

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