Back in June I started an email correspondence with the customer service/information department for a cosmetic company called Collametics. I had written asking for the ingredients list (which is not published on the company’s website) for Collametics Daily Renewal Serum ($100). The list that came back was short and impressive, but surely not everything, I politely and firmly said I wanted all the ingredients not just the key actives. Collametics assured me that I was indeed looking at everything. Now they certainly had my interest.

I had been bracing myself for the usual silicones, fillers and preservatives, but as  you can see from the ingredients listed below Collametics Daily Renewal Serum is a mercifully short, but potent looking formulation. Collametics, a company that was only started last year, calls the formula “collagen building factor”.

After water and zemea propanediol (a non-irritating emollient), Collametics gets straight down to business with vitamin C and several amino acids. For example, there is proline, which makes up one-sixth of collagen. According to research, proline can break down protein to help create healthy cells and connective tissues. Another amino acid here, L-lysine, also plays an important role in collagen production, according to the University of Maryland. I read elsewhere, that lysine plays a synergistic role with vitamin C.

Glucosyl hesperidin improves blood circulation and may stimulate the surface circulation of the skin and therefore help to improve dark circles under the eyes, dull complexion and tired skin. Meanwhile, Copper gluconate, a component of the antioxidant enzyme superoxide dismutase, has shown to promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

I have slightly mixed feelings about zinc gluconate, an effective wound healer and repairer of damaged skin. The Cosmetics Database considers Zinc Gluconate a moderate hazard ingredient based on concerns regarding developmental and reproductive toxicity, allergic reactions, and organ system toxicity. One or more animal studies showed broad systemic effects at very low doses, and the Environmental Canada Domestic Substance List classifies it as “expected to be toxic or harmful.”

In the end , the nice people at Collametics sent me a free sample of Daily Renewal Serum and they also threw in a bottle their Daily Renewal Cream ($100).  The cream has the same actives plus calcium, but in a more typical (and, frankly, not especially appealing base of silicones with the preservatives phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate. Those quibbles aside, I am very excited to try these out and I’ll post a review in about a month’s time.

Read Marta's review: Collametics collagen building serum and cream

Ingredients in serum:
Water, propanediol, L-ascorbic, L-glycine, L-proline, L-Lysine, glucosyl hesperidin, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, silica