Posted by Marta
In a crowded world of barely differentiated potions and lotions, Avon has come up with something new. Anew Clinical Derma-Full X3 ($54), is injectable-grade derma filler in tube, not a syringe! And the nice people at Avon sent me two, so one of them is on offer for a reader to review.
Did you know that hyaluronic acid injections are the second most popular surgical or non-surgical procedure in the US? HA is the naturally occurring and widespread component found within the extra-cellular space within bodily tissues, especially those of the face. The stuff used for injected fillers used to be extracted from rooster combs, but is now produced as a reactive byproduct of a benign bacteria and is identical to the substance found within the skin. Its water-binding and water-attracting attributes fill up the spaces between the connective fibers collagen and elastin in the dermis, which together make up the structural totality of the extra-cellular matrix (ECM). When injected into the face, HA functions to hydrate and separate the skin, holding onto water and supporting all that makes the face plump and voluptuous.
As procedures go - and by now you know I am not a fan of them - this is one I would consider. A 2007 study
by the University of Michigan strongly suggests that injectable fillers actually lead to the creation of new collagen. The study only used a particular brand of filler called Restylane (Restylane did not pay for the research) and only 11 volunteers aged 64 to 84 were involved. Still, the researchers seem pretty clear about having produced meaningful results. What seems to happen is that the injected filler stretches the fibroblast and tricks it into thinking it is still young and virile and so it produces more collagen.
So much for the background check, now back to Avon. Anew Clinical Derma-Full X3 has the same HA facial filler as that injected by dermatologists, although it is listed in the ingredients as plain old sodium hyaluronate. This has a smaller molecule size than HA and so should be able to better penetrate the skin. However, it is a very standard cosmetic ingredient. Not sure what purpose the blue helix thing has, but it looks pretty cool, I must say.
As well as HA, Avon has added in Matrixyl, a powerful antioxidant peptide. Thiodipropionic acid is also an antioxidant, although it is primarily used for preserving food and I couldn't find any evidence of its role in skin care. Trioxaundecanedoic acid is an oxa diacid and a form of retinoid that acts as an exfoliator. Phytol is a precursor to vitamin E and A and an antioxidant, while studies have demonstrated that fennel is an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.
Avon claims that 82% of women who tried the cream in a trial and responded said they thought their cheeks looked more full and youthful. So if you'd like to compare notes with these women (and with me as I'll be trying it out too), then post a comment convincing us that you will come back to the community with an honest review and be sure to email us at firstname.lastname@example.org with your shipping address and BE SURE to put Avon in the subject line.
More on the Restylane study
What is it: hyaluronic acid
What is it: matrixyl
Five Best anti-aging serums
Water, glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane, propylene glycol, glycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, trioxaundecanedioic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, sodium hyaluronate, phytol, fennel extract, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, butylene glycol, carbomer, ammonium hydroxide, caprylyl glycol, polysorbate 20, fragrance, phenoxyethanol, disodium EDTA, Mica/CI 77019, titanium dioxide/CI 77891, blue 1/CI 42090, Red 4/CI 14700.