Expect Deciem to reinvent the cleanser and even avoid the very word. This wonderfully eccentric Canadian beauty company has come up with a “cleaner,” so I had to try it. Deciem Hylamide High Efficiency Face Cleaner ($21) is a cleanser and makeup remover in one. But sadly, I can’t say I really like it.
It is a hybrid — an uneasy one, to my mind — water-based and oil-based cleanser. And that’s Deciem’s point. In its own words, the brand has harnessed “oils, esters and water-compatible cleaners into one advanced formula that works like an oil cleaner but acts like a water-based one.” I don’t particularly like oil-based cleansers and, come to think of it, I ‘m not always keen on water-base gel cleansers either. I guess I am creamy cleanser kind of girl.
So part of what I don’t like about Hylamide High Efficiency Face Cleaner comes down to personal preference. I have to admit that it does clean the skin and is not drying. It can be used as a makeup remover by applying to dry skin and then rinsing, or as a “cleaner” by applying to damp skin and rinsing. I tried both ways and it emulsifies to create a white film. I found that despite Deciem’s boast that it rinses easily, it took quite a bit of sluicing with warm water to get my skin completely clear of residue.
The first ingredient is a plant-based oil that is used to replace silicones, but imparts the same sort of waxy, silky feeling. I was a bit more wary of the second ingredient since it is a PEG and these can have toxicity issues. The role of this one is as a cleansing agent, and I found a study that claims it has no toxicity or irritation issues. There are two harsh preservatives in this cleanser, but otherwise the rest of the ingredients are plant oils and extracts.
Pongamia pinnata is a plant that produces a very thick oil and is used in Ayurvedic medicine as a treatment for skin disorders. Oenocarpus bataua fruit oil is used for hair and skin conditioning, but other than having some omega fatty acid content, I’m not sure what the benefits are. It is alongside brazil nut oil and an Amazonian plant known as sachi peanut, which are both rich in fatty acids.
Not the cleanest of formulas, but one where the good outweighs the bad. Nonetheless, Deciem Hylamide High Efficiency Face Cleaner is not a keeper for me.