Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Eye

Reviewed by Marta on September 19, 2016

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My name is Marta and I am a peptaholic. Yes, I am a self-confessed peptide-file. Along with stem cells, peptides have to be one of the biggest skin care breakthroughs of this decade. Now, imagine a peptide-file with a sample of an eye cream that has no fewer than 18 peptides. Yes, I’ll say that again, there are 18 peptides (and much more besides) in Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Eye ($250).  I was practically swooning!

Five weeks into my trial, I am still prone to gush about this eye cream. The results are rather exceptional. This is a firming eye cream that has lifted and depuffed my lids, given my brow bone area a sleeker and more youthful look, faded an under eye crease and carried on the good work achieved by ClarityRx Get Fit ($105.75 in the shop) on my crow’s feet. I do have a caveat, however, and I’ll come back to it once I’ve told you more about Derm Institute, its approach to formulating and Youth Alchemy Eye in particular.

The principles of Derm Institute’s approach include gold and platinum for ingredient delivery and cell targeting, a proprietary extract of lotus seed for repairing, botanical herb extracts to boost antioxidants like glutathione and reduce hyperpigmentation, and botanicals that boost hydration.

The 18 peptides in Youth Alchemy Eye include tons of neuropeptides for reducing expression wrinkles, collagen-boosters (Matrixyl 3000, heptapeptide-12, tripeptides), dipeptide-2 for reducing puffy eyes by encouraging lymphatic drainage and a peptide for reducing sensitivity to dermal stimuli. Derm Institute claims that the peptide concentration in this eye cream is at 35 percent.

Other useful ingredients include yeast extract, proteins from wheat, soy and oats, hesperidin for dark circles and niancinamide. I was intrigued by Derm Institute’s choice of botanicals and pounced on a couple of them to find out more. Galanga is part of the ginger family and is an antioxidant, while bacopa monniera is used in Indian medicine to treat memory and mental disorders, but I imagine it is here because it is also said to have a positive impact on skin tone.

As one would expect for the price, Youth Alchemy Eye has hardly any wasted ingredients. Instead of fillers, just about everything here has its work cut out as an anti-ager. There are the usual suspects in the preservative department, but otherwise this is a powerful and pretty clean product.

Now for the caveat — or perhaps I should say the sting in the tail: On immediate application, this eye cream gave my skin a slight burning sensation. It was not horrible or very painful, but definitely uncomfortable. The stinging lasted less than a minute and there was no redness or any other symptoms.

Although a little alarmed by this and not being much of a no-pain-no-gain type of person, I persevered for three reasons. The symptom was confined to stinging and was short-lived, and I really wanted to see if there were results. There are and so the trial was worth it. Anyway, the reaction stopped after about three weeks and so I wondering if I was reacting to what is a very strong formula (potent peptides can have that effect) and that I have now come to tolerate it. Just as well, because this is a keeper.