Unfortunately, I have never been able to get past DermaDoctor's packaging. I know I should be grateful that it isn't faux pharma. And, of course, I shouldn't be so superficial. Yet, whenever the DermaDoctor display in Sephora enters my peripheral vision, I think teenagers. Unfair of me really, because this range is for grown-ups and behind it presides a real doctor (unlike at StriVectin), Audrey Kunin MD.

So in the pursuit of fair-mindedness and objectivity, I decided to take a closer a look at one of DermaDoctor's products - albeit with the most sober packaging: Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Eye Balm.

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There are plenty of things to like about this eye cream. At the end of the day, however, I am just not convinced. I've thought long and hard about why that should be and I think that this eye cream simply is the very opposite of simple: it contains a whopping 50 ingredients. You read that right, five zero. That's like 35 too many.

Granted that some of them are rather good ones. There is palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (also known as matrixyl and a good anti-oxidant. There is also palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3. Curiously, there is no palmitoyl oligopeptide. Curious because, combined with tetrapeptide, you get matryxl 3000, a very powerful anti-oxide.

Then we go into free radical overkill with two more anti-oxidant/free radical zappers plus loads of different plant extracts; marine life (plankton and squalane); there are two different ingredients for dark circles, plus an anti-inflammatory; umpteen emollients; almost every preservative known to the laboratory; two silicones; two stabilizers...

Its as if DermaDoctor Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Eye Balm was concocted by some manic, insomniac chemist. I'm tired just thinking about it.