Readers seem to be all over matrixyl 3000 like a rash and I was asked the other day what I thought of Dermaxin. This is one of those products that includes the kitchen sink and I am not sure it is the better for it.

The active ingredients in Dermaxin ($89.49 for 2ozs) are Argireline (the peptide that inhibits facial muscle movement), that antioxidant matrixyl 3000 (palmitoyl ologopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7) and the palmitoyl tripeptide-5, which is another peptide that has the alias SYN-COLL and is supposed to be an effective skin tightener and wrinkle reducer. I also like the inclusion of galactoarabinan, which is extract of larch
tree. Studies have shown that it can minimize fine lines and is a gentle exfoliant. One rather wishes that they had left it there.

But not, Dermaxin also boasts retinol, but in fact it has the relatively weak retinyl palmitate, not the same thing at all. Having said that, the retinyl palmitate (vitamin A) is, along with vitamins E and C) liposome encapsulated. This is a form of nano-technology that allows the ingredient to be released more slowly and be more targeted. As an aside, it might be worth looking out for oral vitamin supplements that are liposome encapsulated as the claim is that they navigate the digestive system more quickly.

I do like the inclusion of galactoarabinan, which is extract of larch tree. Studies have shown that it can minimize fine lines and is a gentle exfoliant.

I identified about 26 ingredients - including antioxidant tea, some amino acids and moisturizing shea and hyaluronic acid - that can make a positive contribution to the skin. That's slightly more than the number that will not make any difference whatsoever to how you look but are basically there because they make a cream into a cream.

My verdict is that is OK, but not thrilling and all of the actives are in many other potions. For example, Peter Roth Thomas has a number of products with a similar roster of active ingredients and Intensive Anti-aging Cellular Moisturizing Masque may be more of a mouthful than Dermaxin, but is better value at $60 for 3.4oz. So how do they compare?

Peter Roth Thomas Intensive Anti-aging Cellular Moisturizing Masque has just over 30 ingredients (Dermaxil has around 50). Personally, I am in favor of a more minimalist approach to cosmetic formulation. But in this case, is less more?

The PTR mask is not much more (or less) than a scaled back version of Dermaxin. About half the ingredients (as with Dermaxin) could be considered useful for the skin. The actives are identical, although in neither product do we know the concentrations. Instead of galactoarabinan of Dermaxin , here we have pomegranate, which is a clincally proven antioxidant.

Somehow, I don't think either Dermaxin or Peter Roth Thomas will make into the next iteration of Truth In Aging's Five Best products with matrixyl 3000.

Ingredients in Dermaxin

Aqua (Water), Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (SYN-COLL), Glyceryl Stearate SE, Isopropyl Myristate, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Galactoarabinan, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Dimethyl Sulfone, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid), Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Liposome Encapsulated), Retinyl Palmitate (Liposome Encapsulated), Tocopheryl Acetate (Liposome Encapsulated), Phospholipids (Liposome Encapsulated), Sodium PCA, Betaine, Sorbitol, Glycine, Alanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Arginine, Lysine, Glutamic Acid , Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone PEG -7 Phosphate, Carbomer, Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Fruit Extract, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Panthenol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Parfum (Fragrance)

Ingredients in Peter Roth Thomas Intensive Anti-aging Cellular Moisturizing Masque

Water (Aqua), Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis(Sweet Almond) Oil, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Ceteareth-20, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Fruit Ferment Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Phospholipids, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Mannan, Bisabolol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Sarcosine, Potassium Aspartate, Magnesium Aspartate, Cetyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Edta, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben