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Discovered: Anti-Aging Eye Creams

Woman applying eye cream
July 25, 2017 Reviewed by Marta 2 Comments

I recently had a very informative conversation with Medik8’s lead educator, Rebecca Fine. She tipped me off to how the conventional wisdom of applying eye cream had turned full circle. We were once told to apply from the outer corner to the inner corner, then circling back over the lid. Now, the new thinking would have us start from the inner corner and work out. The reason for this reversal is to encourage lymphatic drainage and depuff the under eyes — something to think about next time you’re applying your favorite eye cream.

Our chat also got me thinking about what might be new in eye category. It’s been a while since I went on an eye cream discovery — 2015 in fact — and so I have been trawling through the latest ingredients from the big labs in Europe, online searches and brands (some known and some new to me). Below is what I’ve selected for testing and some that I don’t think are worthy of a second look.

First up, we will be selecting a member of the Truth In Aging community to test and review Medik8 Retinol Eye TR Serum ($75). Retinol, when done correctly, is an ingredient I’ve become very fond of, and here it is time-released and buffered with vitamin E, which eases dryness and bolsters the skin’s defense. Keep scrolling for more.

Selected for testing

Susanne Kaufmann Eye Cream Line T ($65)
This eye cream is from a German Spa with a focus on forest botanicals. I always like to have a good recommendation for those in the Truth In Aging community that want plant-based ingredients in a formula that might actually work. Susanne Kauffmann’s could fit the bill with plant-derived hyaluronic acid and glycosphingolipids, as well as extracts of yarrow and St John’s Wort (known to soothe and heal the skin).

 MD Sun Med-Eye Complex Cream ($210)
This growth factor eye cream has such a long ingredients lists that you will either be swooning with excitement or overtaken by a headache. I am in the former camp as, in addition to human conditioned media and adipose stem cells (normally its one or the other), I count seven peptides, a growth factor from potato, antioxidants and well-chosen botanical extracts. On the face of it, Med-Eye is quite the powerhouse.

Royal Fern Phytoactive Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($186)
I am very intrigued by this “nature meets science” doctor-backed brand. Also German, Dr. Timm Gulueke has an interesting take with a complex of fern extracts combined with seeds from the African voacanga tree, wild rose blossoms, sea buckthorn and mineral oxides. Plus there’s hyaluronic acid, vitamin C from the Acerola cherry, vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E and macadamia. All of the ingredients are encapsulated in liposomes for slow, targeted release that cuts down on the potential for irritation.

Perfectivceuticals Divine Age Guardian Serum with Growth Factor ($128)
This eye serum is mostly about the epidermal growth factor oligopeptide-1. I’m always on the look out for good growth factor products and this one has a pared-backed formula that nicely complements the key active with a collagen and elastin-boosting peptide, some plant extracts and sodium hyaluronate. Unfortunately, the chosen preservative is a lone paraben.

Keracell MD Eyelift & Contour Cream ($100)
Another growth factor eye cream with potential, this human conditioned media and two sought after firming peptides, TT2 and ChroNoline. Horse chestnut and licorice are also included as they could be helpful against dark circles.

Rejected

Biossance Squalene and Peptide Eye Gel ($54)
According the glossy magazines, Biossance Squalene and Peptide Eye Gel has been flying off Sephora’s shelves. If you were new to quality eye serums, I could understand why since it has a respectable roster of ingredients for the price, including apple stem cells, Argireline, a peptide for de-puffing, and niacinamide. To an old warhorse like me, there isn’t anything that pushes the boundaries of products that I already use and so I’ll pass.

Premiere Dead Sea Eye Serum ($249.99)
I took a look at this because Mariah Carey has signed up to be the brand’s ambassador. I always feel a little sad when celebrities get taken in by bad endorsement opportunities when there are so many good brands — or even causes — that they could lend their names to. Dead Sea Eye serum seems dead in the water. The only ingredients that it can boast are soybean oil, vitamins C and E, and musk rose oil.

TEOXANE RHA Eyes Advanced Contour Serum ($100)
This is one of those formulas that has some enticing features and overall a good number of worthwhile ingredients, but in the end the balance tips away from them to the number of bad or indifferent ones. The amino acid complex is what lured me in, but it turned out they are at the end of the ingredient list. Before them comes an assortment of PEGs, polyquaterniums, harsh preservatives and fillers.

Bremenn Botanicals Black Tea Age Defying Eye Concentrate ($54)
I had been on the lookout for eye creams with the illusive Beautifye (glycerin, albizia julibrissin bark extract and Darutoside). It’s in some of Truth In Aging’s fave eye serums, but you never know if there is better out there. So, I pounced on Bremenn when I spotted the complex in the ingredients. Unfortunately, the rest of the formula doesn’t excite and four of the five preservatives are ones that I prefer to avoid. 

Do you know of an anti-aging eye cream you think I should try? Let me know in the comments below! 

  • July 26, 2017

    by Marta

    Hi Pam, I did come across this when I was looking around. There's a lot of silicone in this product. They also white label, which I am not very keen on - preferring to put the time and effort of discovery into unique and proprietary products.

  • July 25, 2017

    by Pam

    It would be great if TIA would look at the potential of Cellular Skin Rx Lifting Eye Serum. I don't have the complete ingredients list (in order), but below is a copy of what appears on the website for this eye serum. I'm not an ingredient expert, so I can't determine if there are deal breakers in the "other" list. Website link appears at the end.

    Ingredients
    Niacinamide, Beautifeye® (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2), Rubixyl® (Hexapeptide-48 HCI) Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract (contouring), Carob Seed Extract, Mung Bean Sprout Stem Cells (Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract), Liposhield® (Phyto-Melanin), Darutoside (brightener).

    OTHER INGREDIENTS: Water, glycerin, isoamyl laurate, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, polymethylsilsesquioxane, dimethicone crosspolymer, nylon-12 fluorescent brightener, caprylic triglyceride, sea salt, capryl methicone, polyvinylalcohol crosspolymer, tocopheral acetate, titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, iron oxides, tin oxide, ethylhexylglycerin, phenonip.

    https://www.cellularskinrx.com/skincare/lifting-eye-serum/

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