I was asked to look into Dr Brandt r3p Eye
($80 for 0.5oz) and the first thing I noticed when I started my research was that were a lot of negative reviews from consumers. Most of which are in the 'this does nothing so don't waste your money' vein.
Now, I personally have never tried a Dr Brandt product. Every time I think about giving it a go, I run into a picture of Dr Brandt himself and I find him terrifying. I can't help but think he looks like a scientist from a Bond movie.
This is clearly a childish prejudice of mine and Dr B is doubtless a nice man with a sincere mission to make good potions. The real problem with his products, I think, is that they are crammed with a lot of ingredients and many of them are ones I don't especially care for.
I would imagine that oddly named r3p Eye feels quite good on application; there are four different silicons, shea and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate, which is a skin conditioning amino acid. Octyldodecyl stearate is a skin conditioning fatty acid and a mild irritant when tested on rabbits.
The two "powerful peptides" that rP3 boasts are acetyl hexapeptide-8, which is the one that prevents muscles from moving and seems to be in everything these days, and ascorbic acid polypeptide. This one was new to me and it turns out to be pretty interesting. Ascorbic acid is vitamin C and when it occurs naturally it combines polypeptides and bioflavanoids. Ascorbic acid polypeptide, the natural kind, is supposed to be 10 times more effective than the synthetic vitamin C used in most potions.
There are some antioxidants in the form of tea and caffiene and, languishing at the end of the list, grape seed. I am not sure that I fully understand the role of phospholipids (another ingredient listed). Phospholipids are major components of the cell membrane. They are similar to fats, but have only two fatty acids rather than three. I have heard of the topical application of a growth factor to stimulate phospholipids, such as lysophosphatidic acid. But I haven't come across phospholipids being topically applied until now.
That's about it apart from the usual emulsifiers and no less than seven preservatives. My menacing Dr Brandt is looking rather mundane.
Ingredients in Dr Brandt rP3 Eye
Water (Aqua), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Lecithin, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Palmitate, Siloxanetriol Alginate, C12-16 Alcohols, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Lactate, Octyldodecyl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caffeine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Palmitic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Betaine,Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, BHT, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Sodium PCA, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phospholipids, Ceramide 3, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Propylparaben, Isobutylpraben, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract.