If you read my recent “What’s Working For Me” article, you’ll know that a new discovery (actually a new product launch) has become a permanent part of my regimen: Dr. Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Brighten and Firm Vitamin C Serum($78 in the shop). The more observant amongst you, especially if you are up to speed on DDG’s new mini-line for tired skin, will notice that I did not mention the companion eye cream. After weeks of testing, I gave up and concluded that it wasn’t for me.
Since I am loving the C+ Collagen face serum, I wanted to at least like the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Eye Cream ($65). But it was not meant to be. We got off to a bad start and never recovered. I found this eye cream to tingle in a very uncomfortable way from the get go. Although the feeling would eventually subside, I would find myself rubbing my itchy eyes for several hours after application. My skin never got red or visibly irritated and so I persisted with my trial.
After three weeks, I decided that although my periorbital skin looked tighter and the lids a little lifted, they also looked duller and drier. Finding the cream unpleasant and uncomfortable to use and, unable to summon the enthusiasm to finish my full 30-day trial period, I gave up. We have another C + Collagen Brighten & Firm Eye Cream out with another member of the community and I am hoping that my experience will be confined to me. While we are waiting, I will give you my take on some of the ingredients.
As with the C+ Collagen face serum, one of the key ingredients is a vitamin C derivative called 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. This is a stable form that has also been credited with halting the melanin-biosynthesis pathway in skin, hence it can prevent hyperpigmentation. There are also collagen amino acids and the new line’s signature antioxidants including ubiquinone.
As a peptide enthusiast, I was excited to see they are packed into this eye cream: dipeptide-2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12. The first one, dipeptide-2 is associated with diminishing under eye bags. Tripeptide-1 is said to stimulate the synthesis of collagen I and III, fibronectin and laminin. Now you can see why I wanted to make friends with this eye cream. Other useful ingredients include hesperidin methyl chalcone, good for under eye circles, as is licorice and cucumber.
While going through the ingredients, I kept a beady eye out for what might have been the source (or sources) of the discomfort I experienced. Most of the actives are proven safe. For example, I checked out the ceramide used here (ceramide NG) and it seems to have a good safety profile. Niacinamide can be irritating for some and it does feature high on the ingredient list. There are known irritants like phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate amongst the preservatives. More likely, to my non-chemists eye is that some of the ingredients (in what is a long and complex formula), while benign in and of themselves, in combination set off a reaction.