This week a new skincare line is being launched on the Home Shopping Network by plastic surgeon Dr Susan Evens. The Dr Evans range is called The Papaya Renewal Collection and, as the more astute of you might guess, it focuses on the exfoliating enzyme of the pawpaw, or papaya, fruit. I took a look at the Dr Evans Replenishing Solution and must admit that for the price ($31, but being sold for $19.98) it doesn’t look half bad – although more than a little heavy handed.

Papaya makes a lot of sense in skincare. It’s powerful fruit enzymes, in particular papain, have gentle exfoliating properties, naturally removing dead or damaged skin, and are known to accelerate healing in skin conditions such as acne. Moreoever, papaya juice has the ability to reduce skin discoloration caused by the sun, creating a healthier-looking, more even-toned complexion. When topically applied to the face, papaya nourishes the skin with vitamins A and C and promotes elasticity with beta-carotene.

Clearly though, Dr E is into exfoliation, so you’ll need to bear that in mind if you have sensitive skin and/or have concerns about the controversies over retinyl palmitate. Third on the ingredients list of Replenishing Solution, this vitamin A derivative’s main job is to increase cell turnover and at high concentrations it may irritate. There’s also some lactic acid here for good measure.

Interestingly, she’s also big on yeast extracts (saccharomyces) that have been fermented in various metals. Usually these crop up in hair growth products such as Nioxin, although I’ve also seen them in cream by another doc, Kenneth Mark MD. Live yeast-cell derivatives have been shown to stimulate wound healing, but much of what is known about yeast’s effects for skin is theoretical and there’s no information on the metal fermented varieties.

The slew of preservatives include the irritants potassium hydroxide, hexylene glycol and phenoxyethanol.

Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Retinyl Palmitate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Propylene Glycol, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Serine, Sorbitol, Urea Sodium Chloride, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol and Fragrance (Parfum).