It is said that all Japanese women, whether teenage or mature, use at least one BB cream
and every drugstore has a BB corner. Now Sephora has jumped on the BB craze and has brought Dr Jart+ BB creams to the US so you too can get to know these multitaskers that have created a new beauty category: the all-in-one that will treat various skin troubles like blemishes, roughness, discolorations, brown spots, open-pores while concealing imperfections.
Dr Jart+ Premium Beauty Balm SPF 45 ($39) is billed as a “one-step balm that perfects the appearance of skin while protecting it from the sun and environmental factors” and so I was very intrigued to see how this BB cream would pull all this off. Due to amazing powers of silicone it would seem. There’s more silicone here than a Sports Illustrated Calendar.
The only ingredient that seems to be in enough of a concentration to be considered as a meaningful active is arbutin
, a skin lightening agent that is less harmful than hydroquinone. But then you have to wade through more silicone, aluminum hydroxide
, polysorbate 80
(linked to reproductive issues), propylene glycol
(an irritant), talc
(possibly carcinogenic) and yet more silicone before alighting on the anti-inflammatory and wound healer adenosine.
And then, finally, Dr Jart+ Premium Beauty Balm comes up with some really good things: Rh-oligopeptide-1 (Egf) is a recombitant human epidermal growth factor that repairs wrinkles and wounds and the power peptide Matrixyl 3000.
Sadly, they are barely footnotes in what looks like little more than a cynical attempt to make a high margin killing off of a fad.
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Phenyl Trimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate, Dipropylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Arbutin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Calcium Stearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Polysorbate 80, Propylene Glycol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Talc, Tocopheryl Acetate, Adenosine, Alcohol, Lecithin, rh-Oligopeptide-1, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, PVP, Platinum powder, Steareth-20, Chrysin, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide.