It is said that all Japanese women, whether teenage or mature, use at least one BB cream and every drugstore has a BB corner. Now Sephora has jumped on the BB craze and has brought Dr Jart+ BB creams to the US so you too can get to know these multitaskers that have created a new beauty category: the all-in-one that will treat various skin troubles like blemishes, roughness, discolorations, brown spots, open-pores while concealing imperfections.

Dr Jart+ Premium Beauty Balm SPF 45 ($39) is billed as a “one-step balm that perfects the appearance of skin while protecting it from the sun and environmental factors” and so I was very intrigued to see how this BB cream would pull all this off.  Due to amazing powers of silicone it would seem. There’s more silicone here than a Sports Illustrated Calendar.

The only ingredient that seems to be in enough of a concentration to be considered as a meaningful active is arbutin, a skin lightening agent that is less harmful than hydroquinone. But then you have to wade through more silicone, aluminum hydroxide, polysorbate 80 (linked to reproductive issues), propylene glycol (an irritant), talc (possibly carcinogenic) and yet more silicone before alighting on the anti-inflammatory and wound healer adenosine.

And then, finally, Dr Jart+ Premium Beauty Balm comes up with some really good things: Rh-oligopeptide-1 (Egf) is a recombitant human epidermal growth factor that repairs wrinkles and wounds and the power peptide Matrixyl 3000.

Sadly, they are barely footnotes in what looks like little more than a cynical attempt to make a high margin killing off of a fad.


Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Phenyl Trimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate, Dipropylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Arbutin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Calcium Stearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Polysorbate 80, Propylene Glycol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Talc, Tocopheryl Acetate, Adenosine, Alcohol, Lecithin, rh-Oligopeptide-1, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, PVP, Platinum powder, Steareth-20, Chrysin, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide.