elena rubin incognito

Our Rating: 4 stars

Reviewed by Marta on January 11, 2016


I rather like the idea of an anti-aging eye serum made by a recovering Wall Street executive. If anyone would know the toll that long hours and stress can take on the eyes, she would. I also like that Elena Rubin takes a holistic approach to wellness that goes beyond skin care. I had high hopes for Elena Rubin Incognito Eye Serum ($119 in the shop) and it did not disappoint.

Claiming to be an all-purpose eye serum, Icognito promises to firm and tone, erase fine lines and reduce puffiness and dark circles. I must say that when I first opened the bottle and released a thin, milky liquid from the dropper I was a little underwhelmed. Somehow, it didn’t scream heavy-hitting, multitasker. However, I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Within a few days, my under eyes were a little less puffy. Now coming to the end of my 30-day testing period, they feel positively taut. My eyelids are smooth. I am even thinking that it is having some impact on my crow’s feet — something that has been bothering me recently is the distinct impression that my crow’s feet have been worsening.

Incognito has certainly been formulated as a heavy hitting multitasker. One of the most dominant ingredients is chrysin, a flavonoid from passionflower that is thought to eliminate pigmented bilirubin and iron deposits underneath the skin (aka dark circles). As does the next ingredient, n-hydroxysuccinimide. Puffy eyes are handled by the peptide, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, which does triple duty as a humectant and improves elasticity.

In the wrinkle fighting corner we have Matrixyl 3000, a very reliable collagen-building peptide combo. Then there is an ingredient for combatting expression lines from the acmella oleracea plant (popularly known as the toothache plant), which relaxes facial muscles.

This little lot has most of the bases of a good eye serum covered, but it is worth noting that other good things include the moisture retaining pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, and gluconolactone, a free-radical scavenger as well as metal chelator. There’s another chelator here as well: trisodium ehylenediamine disuccinate. If you are wondering what this is all about, then it is worth mentioning that we can be in contact (especially via our tap water) with heavy metals that can be harmful to our skin. Chelating ingredients actually chomp up these metals and dispose of them.

Elena Rubin cares about overall wellness and has done a good job of creating a product with plenty of good things, including botanical oils and extracts. She is no purist however and there is the preservative phenoxyethanol (an irritant and potential neurotoxin), as well as the controversial sodium benzoate, which reacts with vitamin C and may damage DNA. Overall though, Ingonito is a well formulated eye serum that errs on the healthy and certainly performs as an anti-ager.