I am very suspicious of skincare brands that have been developed by plastic surgeons. After all, why create antiaging potions that really work because if they did no one would need the doctor's lucrative cosmetic surgery procedures. However, such cynicism seemed misplaced  when I came across Dr Christine Rodgers Enpointe line and her new Eclairci C Serum ($75).

First off, I like a vitamin C serum that actually makes sure that ascorbic acid is the dominant ingredient. It is closely followed by thermus thermophilus ferment (which is also in Osmotics body lotion). I haven’t quite got my head around this one, but here goes. This is a marine microbacteria that is activated when the waters it resides in reach a certain temperature. The theory is that, being heat activated (eg when the skin is exposed to the warmth of the sun), it will activate the body’s natural antioxidant enzymes. This does sound a mite far-fetched to me, but it does seem that thermophilus emzymes are very interesting to scientists and that they have a “fundamental role in DNA replication and repair” (source).

In fact, Dr Rodgers has seen to it that Eclairci pretty much has it all from peptides, to minerals to botanicals. One of the latter, phyllanthus emblica (Indian gooseberry)  may have the ability to regulate melanin production in the skin, reducing age spots and preventing photoaging and sun damage. Also in Alveda's Green Science range is calophyllum tacamahaca (also known as tamanu oil), which is excellent at aiding the formation of skin tissue.  Then there is seabuckthorn (hippophae rhamnoides and also in Amala's face mask) has loads of quercetin. The thing about quercetin is that it may be a much more of a powerful antioxidant than was previously thought. Cornell University has a new way of measuring antioxidant potency called ‘cellular antioxidant activity’ (CAA) that tests the antioxidant activities of a compound inside the cell itself. This is an approach that is deemed to be more accurate. Of all the flavenoids, quercetin had the highest CAA value.

Tripeptide-10 citrulline has been around for a couple of years and it mimics a molecule that regulates collagen fibers. As we get older, decorin (the molecule in question) activity declines. The new peptide, tripeptide-10 citrulline, behaves like decorin so that the collagen fibers are fooled into thinking they should still be productive. A trial was conducted on 43 women, about half of which were given tripeptide-10 citrulline. Granted this was conducted by the manufacturer, Lipotec.

This is the first time I have across shilajit, although it seems to be a stalwart of Ayurvedic medicine. It is a plant that grows in the Hindukush and is attributed with miraculous healing powers. There is very little research to back this up, although I did find a study that concluded it is an anti-inflammatory.

I am also interested in dimethyl sulfane. Also called methyl sufonyl methane (MSM) enhances tissue pliability and encourages repairs damaged skin. If there is insufficient sulfur in the body when new cells are being manufactured, the new cells will be rigid. When sufficient sulfur is present for new cells, the skin is softer, smoother and more flexible. Without Methyl Sufonyl Methane (MSM), bodies are unable to regenerate healthy cells, leading to problems such as lost flexibility, scar tissue, wrinkles, varicose veins, and dry cracking skin.

Before you pounce on this - it has to be said - good looking potion, note that pyridoxine HCL (vitamin B6) can cause allergic reactions. Although Enpoint eshews parabens, it does use propyl gallate - a preservative that can mimic estrogen similar to other xenoestrogens, potentially resulting in male organisms developing female traits, therefore increasing the risk of developing cancer in estrogen-sensitive tissues such as ovary, breast, prostate, etc.

Ingredients

Water, ascorbic acid, pentylene glycol, olive oil PEG-& esters, thermus thermophillus ferment, sodium hyaluronate, glucose, tripeptide-10 citrulline, lactic acid, arginine, magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, algae extract, phyllanthus emblica fruit extract, rhodiola crenulata root extract, panax ginseng, ginger root extract, calophyllum tacamahaca seed oil, shilajit, sea whip extract, camellia sinsensis leaf extract, hippophae rhamnoides oil, spirulina platensis, lactoperoxidase, glucose oxidase, epigallocatechin gallate, glutamine, sericin, niacinnamide, glycerin, cyanocobalamin, mannitol, tetrahexyldecyl  ascorbate, dextran, palmitoyl tripeptide 8, copolymer, glycosaminoglycans, aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate, ascetyl cysteine, propyl gallate, dimethyl sulfone, pyridoxine HCL, caprylic capric triglyceride, butylene glycol, xanthan gum, disodium EDTA, fragrance