Estee Lauder is hoping that Time Zone will be the 'it' potion of 2009. Naturally it has the newest and most cutting edge of anti-agers: Sirtuin EX1 Technology and TriHyaluronic Complex.
Sirtuins are certainly new, so much so that little is known about them. What we do know about them came out of research into why it is that mice put on a subsistence diet tend to live longer than normal. Researchers have now found that calorific restriction triggers a biochemical pathway that involves enzymes called sirtuins. The main role of sirtuins is to regulate the activity of the genes responsible for metabolism, cell defense and reproduction. When food is scarce, the body’s sirtuins go into self-preservation mode. A sirtuin activator has been found in the form of resveratol, found in grapes and already known to be an effective antioxidant. No one seems to know if a topically applied activator really works.
Looking at Time Zone Line & Wrinkle Reducing Lotion SPF15, sirtuins seems to be in the form of grape seed extract that appears about one-third of the way through a list of about 60 ingredients. Resveratol has also been isolated from polygonum cuspidatum root extract, also known as Japanese knotweed. So this may be a another source of the sirtuins touted by Estee Lauder.
I must say that the rest of this potion looks a lot like many other anti-agers on the market. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but there isn't much (apart from sirtuins) that makes it a standout let alone a candidate for 'it' status. After the handful of emolients, there is a medley of botanicals, most of which (wheat, barley, rice and pomegranate) have strong antioxidant properties.
Further down, there is a more unusual antioxidant in the form of hordihydroguaiaretic acid. This comes from the creosote bush and the National Cancer Institute says it inhibits the proliferation of tumors. It is also an anti-inflammatory. There is also creatine
, which skincare manufacturers believe may improve skin cell turnover, increase elasticity and treat hyper-pigmentation.
There are many of the usual suspects in the silicone and preservative department so I'd want to be a believer in the power of sirtuins before be willing to overlook them.
Ingredients in Estee Lauder Time Zone Line & Wrinkle Reducing Lotion
Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.50%, Avobenzone 3.00 %, Octisalate 5.00%.
Water/Aqua/Eau, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Yeast Extract/Faex/Extrait de Levure, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Centaurium Erythraea (Centaury) Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat Bran) Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract/Extrait d’Orge, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Juice Extract, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul’s Wort) Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Larix Sibirica Wood Extract, VitisVinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Selaginella Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Tamarindus Indica Seed Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Linolenic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Polyethylene, Cholesterol, Pentylene Glycol, Creatine, Caffeine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Sucrose, Acetyl Glucosamine, Phytantriol, PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Trehalose, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Sodium PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Timethylsiloxysilicate, AcrylatesC/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysorbate-80, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Sulfate, Adenosine Phosphate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Cyclodextrin, Silica, Fragrance (Parfum), Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol.