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Five Best anti-aging serums- October 2008

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin
Reviewed by Marta October 22, 2008 9 Comments
It's hard to believe that the last time I posted Five Best anti-aging serums was in April. Since then we have made such good finds that it restores my faith in the cosmetic industry. In a sea of department store crap, there are some real islands of excellence.

Although Image Skincare remains a favorite of mine, there are some new contenders that are so powerful that they have ousted three of the former Five Bests. Gone are Osmotics (I was allergic to it, however, I must admit that I gave it to a friend who has great results with it) Tracie Martyn Firming Serum, Mychelle Supreme (the new version doesn't have matrixyl 3000 and the performance was poor in my experience), and Remergent DNA Repair.

And now a small drumroll for the latest Five Best anti-aging serums that actually live up to the name:

Image Skincare's Ageless Total Anti-Aging Serum ($40).I think I've been using this for the last two years for about five days a week. I supplement it with other collagen and cell-building serums (such as Reluma) because I think that Ageless is primarily a gentle but effective glycolic acid. It is brilliant at keeping the surface of the skin plump and bright. This is due to three acids - glycolic, lactic and malic - and hyaluronate. And it does have alpha lipoic acid, a good anti-ager. A little goes a long way - not only is this well priced, it can be eked out for nearly a year. The only problem is that it is not that easy to find so I'll have to direct you to my estheticianIdli Pekar.

Reluma Skin Illuminating Anti-aging serum ($130). This works at fading wrinkles and encouraging new growth. I like it so much that I'll be buying a second bottle (always the litmus test). The mercifully simple list of ingredients contains one that is extremely complex. The active in ReLuma, which is made by Invitra Cosmeceuticals from where you can buy direct, is human fibroblast conditioned media. In all, ReLuma has nine different human cytokines in the human fibroblast conditioned media.

Nutra-Lift Rejuvenating Therapy ($40). This well-priced product puts a lot of those $100-plus creams to shame. In addition to matrixyl 3000, this is choca with most of the anti-aging ingredients known to man. The collagen and elastin are from fish, so that should mean there's no danger of estrogen (as there is if they have been derived from human or other animal cells). Also included is astaxanthin, which is supposed to be 100-500 times more powerful as an antioxidant than vitamin E. Pycogenol is another antioxidant from the bark of the French maritime pine tree. I'm using it right now and the results on fine lines are very good.

Circadia's Myo-Cyte Rx Serum ($150). I won't pretend that it isn't on the pricy side, but this really works. As soon as I finished the tiny sample bottle (which was enough to fade a few lines pretty dramatically), I immediately forked out $150. Myo-Cyte has Matrixyl 3000, carnosine (which extends the Hayflick Limit - the number of times a cell can reproduce itself) and threonine, which helps keep connective tissues and muscles throughout the body strong and elastic.

Your Best Face Control($160). Control has YBF's signature ingredient, spin trap. This is a clever little molecule that seeks out free radicals that are spinning out of control and sets them right before they can do damage. While spin trap is going after free radicals, Matrixyl 3000 is promoting collagen growth, assisted by idebenone (CoQ10), another antioxidant with a good pedigree, and vitamins C and E. YBF can be bought in the TIA Shop.

Ingredients in Nutra-Lift Rejuvenating Therapy

Certified Organic Aloe Vera Gel, Matrixyl 3000 at 5% (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 PAL KTTKS), Vitamin C ester, sea kelp / algae, liposomes, astraxanthin, grape seed extract, cetyl esters, nikkomulese, co-Q10, pycogenol, natural mixed tocopherals (vitamin e), anti-oxidant complex 14, natural firming complex (dmae, alpha lipoic acid) fruit flower complex 12, herbal complex 30, plant derived polysorbate 20, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hyaluronic acid, copper peptide, marine collagen, marine elastine, organic royal jelly, Mexican yam, green tea, milk thistle, retinyl palmitate, ( vitamin A) ppgsmdi co-polymer., l-tyrosine, zinc sulfate, squalene, colloidal minerals.


Ingredients in ReLuma Skin Illuminating Anti-Aging Serum

Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media, deionized water, gycerin, sodium PCA,
allantoin, panthenol, cellulose gum, DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate


Ingredients in Circadia Myo-Cyte

Water, Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide, Ethoxydiglycol, Tretrasodium EDTA, Passion Flower Extract, Rosemary Extract, Chamomile Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Amino Acid Complex (L-Carnosine, L-Threonine, L-Glycine), Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

Ingredients in Your Best Face Control

Reverse osmosis water, argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3), cyclomethicone, ppg-5 ceteth-20, matrixyl 3000 (palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3), c10-30 alkyl crylate crosspolymer, dimethyl isosorbide, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, spin trap (phenyl butyl nitrone), jojoba, nylon 12, idebenone, triethanolamine, alpha lipoic acid, polysorbate 20, sodium hyaluronate, vitamin e, paraben du.
  • February 10, 2009

    by marta

    Feli, I started getting lines at your age and I wish I'd known about anti-aging serums then. I've added links to Amazon for the those that can be bought there. The others cannot be bought at most stores but online. For YBF, you can buy it here: http://www.theskincareshop.com/

  • February 10, 2009

    by Feli

    Hi Marta thanks for the informative review. I'm 26 and recently I've noticed that a few lines started appearing on my forehead, I freaked out at the discovery. I'm trying a hyaluronic cream from vitamin world but I think it has made my skin either very dry or irritated that my skin is peeling! Do u think an anti-aging cream/serum could be asolution? And can these serums u recommanded be purchased at any retail store? Thanx heaps!

  • January 2, 2009

    by marta

    Ann, thanks for drawing my attention to this one. Actually, the 15% claim might be genuine. Matrixyl 3000 can be made by combining tetrapeptide and oligopeptide. But it can also be made with palmitoyl GHK and palmitoyl GQPR. All four are in this product. It looks worth checking out.

  • January 1, 2009

    by Ann Stewart

    I can't believe the number of mistakes I made in my post about "15% Matrixyl 3000". Here is how it should have been:

    I was wondering if you’ve reviewed “15% Matrixyl 3000 Serum” (http://www.ncnproskincare.com/skin-care-products/anti-aging-products-/15-matrixyl-3000-serum.html). I don’t know whether NCN Professional Skin Care makes it or just sells it. It’s only $35. The ingredients are:water, sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl KTTKS, palmitoyl GHK+ palmitoyl GQPR, butylene glycol, carbomer, polysorbate 20, palmitoyl “olio-peptide” (I assume this was supposed to be “oligopeptide”), methyl & propyl parahydroxy bezonate (I assume this was supposed to be benzoate), diazoldinyl urea. Since the oligopeptide is way down the list, I don’t see how the serum can be “15%” Matrixyl 3000. I’d like to hear your opinion on the ingredients and, of course where to find any posts on this product on your site.

  • January 1, 2009

    by Ann Stewart

    I was wondering if you've reviewed "15% Matrixyl 3000 Serum" (http://www.ncnproskincare.com/skin-care-products/anti-aging-products-/15-matrixyl-3000-serum.html). I don't know whether NCN Professional Skin Care makes it or just sells it. It's only $35. The ingredients are:water sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl KTTKS, palmitoyl GHK+ palmitoyl, palmitoyl GQPR, butylene glycol, carbomer, polysorbate 20, palmitoyl "olio-peptide" (I assume thjis was supposed to be "oligopeptide"), methyl & propyl parahydroxy bezonate (I assume this was supposed to be benzoate), diazoldinyl urea. Since the oligopeptide is way down the list, I don't see how the serum can be "15%" Matrixyl 3000. I'd like to hear your opinion on the ingredients.

  • October 23, 2008

    by Marta

    <p>I could be wrong, but I regard copper peptides (ie the Super GHK) as being more about repairing than prevention. I would use Super Cop 2X on targeted areas - perhaps where I am erasing a sun spot.</p>

    <p>I'll do a post on my regimen in a couple of days.</p>

  • October 23, 2008

    by salome

    <p>Marta, how do you rate these serums against SRCPs, such as the ones sold by Skin Biology? I read your review of their Super GHK serum, and I was curious if you felt one product was better than the other.</p>

    <p>I'm a 33 year old woman, and my skin is in incredible shape. I'm almost always mistaken for being just out of high school/in college. I'm doing my best to keep it as healthy as possible, and I'm just now starting to look into adding serums, retinols, etc to my skin care routine. I've been making my own moisturizing/anti-aging facial oil for some years, and that has served me well, but I feel it's time to start looking to the big guns.</p>

    <p>I agree with a commenter from a few entries ago that it would be great to read about you guys' skin care regimens. I need some inspiration and guidance.</p>

  • October 22, 2008

    by Marta

    <p>I'll always have a place in my heart for Tracie's serum, but these others are simply cutting edge.</p>

    <p>I have a slightly weird approach to my regimen in that I try to work out what my skin needs by how it looks and I even micro-target, so some days I might use Reluma everywhere and another I target the eye and cheekbone area and use Control (which is a bit more moisturizing) on my forehead because it happens to feel a bit dry. </p>

    <p>I don't do anything twice a day (I have a phobia about overkill and I don't use anything seven days a week - five at most, so that I can rotate as outlined above. </p>

    <p>Its all a bit fussy probably. But as good as these potions are, I don't think there is a silver bullet and you have to play around a bit. Anyway, that's just me....</p>

  • October 22, 2008

    by ash

    <p>Marta, TIA's best lists are always my favs; a great way to get a snapshot of the best options in one place.<br />
    I am suprised that Tracie Martyn was knocked off. When that happens, the list must be filled with great options imo.<br />
    I have been using Image Skincare in my evening regiment and love it. However, I haven't had a chance to supplement it with other serums (Reluma) yet. Question: How often do you use it in your regiment (twice or once a day)? Also, where does YBF Control fit in your regiment now? Great update, thanks.</p>

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