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It has been over a year since our last Five Best antiaging serums for 40 and 50-somethings. And, ahhh, how things have moved on since then! Looking back, I found that they were all good products. But how many of them would be superseded by finds made during the last 12 months? Before embarking on the exercise, I was willing to guess most of them. We’ve had a great year for finding really effective antiaging serums. OK, so these are not the cheapest (check back next week for the best antiaging serums for under $50), but if, my fellow wrinkle warriors, you need the heavy guns at least one of these should be in your arsenal.
Before I proceed with the new Five Best, I need to mention that Skinceuticals CE Ferulic was one of last year’s top picks. Not anymore. Not only has Skinceuticals jacked up the price by $50, we found a near identical formula by CSS for $100 less! I have since revisited another 2009 pick, Medik8, and think it has been surpassed by new finds. As far as ReLuma goes, I really need to try it again to see how it stacks up. And, while I still believe the Circadia is a good product, if you are in the market for something that costs $150 or more, then I think we have found even better. Read on:
E’shee Cellular Repair Serum ($179 in the TIA shop). This serum is hugely beneficial for rosacea, broken veins and deep wrinkles. The key active is the cutting edge FGF 1 (a Recombinant Human acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor). FGF1 is rather bossy and signals FGF2 to get on with fibroblast growth and collagen production, hyaluronic acid and elastin, while getting FGF7 to get busy with hair follicles and grow hair. FGF7 is also responsible for keratinocyte resulting in rejuvenated skin. They also support angiogenesis, which is the growth of new blood vessels. Is this why my broken veins seem to be diminishing? The horse chestnut is the repair for broken capillaries. Horse chestnut trees (particularly the seeds) contain a saponin called escin. This is supposed to strengthen veins and capillaries by blocking an enzyme called hyaluronidase, which can breakdown of proteoglycans (part of the structure of capillary walls). The only other botanical is mulberry. This is typically used in skincare as a whitener. Studies have been shown mulberry leaf extract to inhibit tyrosinase activity. Additionally, several phenolic flavonoids, such as gallic acid and quercetin, and fatty acids, such as linoleic acid and palmitic acid, have been isolated from its leaves. With sodium lactate and lactic acid providing exfoliation and sodium hyaluronate, this formulation covers most bases. This is an expensive potion for 10 ml or 0.34 fl oz., so I target it only where really needed - deep wrinkles and areas of rosacea prone skin with some tiny broken veins. The results are very impressive. Full review of E'shee.
Skin Nutrition Cell CPR ($173 in the TIA store). I just bought a second bottle of this with my own hard earned cash. Skin Nutrition, the maker of Cell CPR says “if our skin came with a manufacturer’s maintenance elixir, Cell-CPR™ is what it would have come with!” I’d have to say that my skin agrees with this bold claim. When I was on a regime of Cell CPR and Osmosis Replenish, I got compliments. Skin Nutrition’s philosophy is that skin cells are complex things made up of phospholipids, proteins (enzymes, oligopeptides, amino acids), oligosaccharides, oxygen, vitamins and minerals. And so, therefore, is Cell CPR with a whopping 70 or so ingredients. The peptides are especially worth a call out: hexanoyl dipeptide-3 (which is lecithin and norleucine Acetate) activates skin cell regeneration by stimulating the natural desquamation process of the skin, leading to a gentle peeling. Rh-oligopeptide-1 (Egf) is a recombitant human epidermal growth factor. I have seen it in hair growth products and, apparently, it also repairs wrinkles and wounds. More familiar to me is another wound healer, copper tripeptide (also known as copper GHK). One of the most fascinating ingredients is adenosine triphosphate (ATP). It is the main energy source for the majority of cellular – and muscular – functions. This includes the synthesis of DNA. Full review of Skin Nutrition Cell CPR.
KaplanMD Perfecting Serum. KaplanMD’s range is based on what the good doctor calls his 10-3-1 Concept. “There are ten active ingredients per product, to prevent and treat all three types of skin aging, in one concise and synergistic line.” The idea is that the formula uses intensive concentrations of these actives so that you don’t need to use loads of different products (mind you, he has day creams, night creams, toners and whathaveyou like anyone else). Unlike many serums, KaplanMD’s is very hydrating. This is surely due to the fact that this product is a whopping 50% sodium hyaluronate with a helping hand from glycosaminoglycans. The ten actives include Dr Kaplan’s signature black cohosh, which along with grape and soy, is supposed to counteract to depletion of estrogen that women experience as they age and is one of the three causes of skin aging identified by Dr K. Phytogenic (plant derived) hormone therapy is widely touted as a way or women to control hormonal imbalance. Full review of Kaplan MD and reader review.
Osmotics Lipofill ($85 in the TIA shop) is designed to target the labial nasal lines. When I use it, I definitely see an improvement. As well as sodium hyaluronate, there is saccharide isomerate, which works as a moisture regulator by binding to the free amino groups of lysine in the keratin of the outer layer of the epidermis. At the forefront of Lipofill is rye seed. Rich in arabinoxylans that are responsible for the cohesion and mechanical resistance of the plant, Rye extract is said to act as an internal tensor and boosts the skin’s abilities to firm and lift. Artemisia abrotanum, known as wormwood, contains four flavenols with spasmolytic activities. Spasmolytic is a type of muscle relaxer and so could be playing a role here as a kind of natural Botox. There is also the tried and trusted peptide, Matrixyl, plus tripeptide 1. Full review of Lipofill.
Your Best Face Restore ($120). Restore is a lovely product that lives up to its name. Expect skin to be both soothed and brightened. Vitamin C and alpha arbutin will refine the complexion, while antioxidant spin trap and vitamin B (niacin) prepare you for the long haul. Lipochroman 6 is a form of vitamin E that, according to Lipotec who makes lipochronan-6, does a significantly better job of fending off oxidative stress than resveratrol, the antioxidant component of grapes. I turn to Restore again and again, especially if my skin is out of sorts. Over time it will help fade discoloration and hyperpigmentation, as well as smooth out wrinkles. Full review of Restore.
Ingredients in KaplanMD
Water (aqua), Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Glycosaminoglycans, Gylceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Soy Isoflavones Aglycones, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa (Black Cohosh) Root Extract, Lecithin, Phospholipids, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Algae Extract, Yeast Extract, Carnosine, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Glucosamine HCI, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polysorbate 20, Urea, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Fragrance
Ingredients in Lipofill
Purified water, caprylic/capric triglyceride, rye seed extract, butylene glycol, artemisia abrotanum extract, isohexadecane, BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer, cyclopentasiloxane, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, tripeptide-1, saccharide isomerate, ethylhexyl palmitate, tribehenin, sorbitan isostearate, palmitoyl oligopeptide, oat kernel, squalane, stearic acid, glycerol stearate, cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, PEG-100 stearate, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), carbomer, disodium EDTA, diazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, tromethamine.
Ingredients in E’shee
Aqua, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Distillate, Propylene Glycol, 1.3 Butylene Glycol, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Glycerin, Morus Alba (Mulberry) Extract, Tinocare GL, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Triethanolamine, D-Panthenol, Lactic acid, Carbomer, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol, FGF 1 (Recombinant Human acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor).
Ingredients in Cell CPR
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Steareth-21, Panthenol, Retinyl Palmitate, Cyclodextrin, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3, Norleucine Acetate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Rh-oligopeptide-1 (Egf), Rh-polypeptide-1 (Bfgf), Copper Tripeptide-1, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Peg-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Mitracarpus Scaber Extract, Superoxide Dismutase (Sod), Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Adenosine Triphosphate (Atp), Yeast Polysaccharides, Acetyl Tyrosine, Proline, Oleyl Alcohol, Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, Perfluorodecalin, Ceramide 3, Rhodochrosite Extract, Hematite Extract, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Sodium Pca, Trehalose, Allantoin, Peg-32, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Steareth-2, Peg-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Alcohol,Disodium Edta, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol.
Ingredients in Restore:
Reverse osmosis water, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (vitamin C), alpha arbutin, ppg5 ceteth-20, vitamin B5, dimethyl isosorbide,niacin, spin trap (phenyl butyl nitrone), vitamin e, c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium hyaluronate, polysorbate-20, Lipochroman-6(dimethylmethoxy chromanol), triethanolamine, paraben du