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I was really surprised to discover that the last Five Best eye cream update was in the summer of 2009. Since then, there have been some new good finds and its also nice to know that Your Best Face Correct ($150 in the TIA shop) and Optyma by Dermophisiologique ($88 in the TIA shop) are still in active use in my bathroom cabinet. The notable new additions to the Five Best eye cream ranks are IS Clinical, Osmotics’ relatively new Renovage ($78 in the TIA shop) with its high tech ingredients for extending cell life (one of them, teprenone is also in YBF Correct).
Dermophisiologique’s Optyma eye cream ($88). I bought Optyma with my own money – always a good sign – and it remains a stalwart of my regular routine. The most impressive thing about it is that it tightens and it claims to last 24 hours and it does. If you have eyelid droop this is the eye cream for you. Poiesis is a growth factor ingredient providing long term benefits of skin and wrinkle repair. Amongst the botanicals, I particularly like the use of escin, which is a saponin found in horse chestnut and is responsible for extracts of that plant being able to mend broken capillaries. It is also a collagen booster. Estheticians like this cream because it is fairly thick and substantial enough for a light massage.
IS Clinical Youth Eye Complex ($85). This eye cream smoothes out fine lines, depuffs and does a nice lifting job. It is particularly hydrating. This is surely due to the sodium hyaluronate and phospholipids, weird and wondrous things that hold on to moisture, and glycosaminoglycans. GAGs also promote the ability of the collagen and elastin fibers to retain moisture, therefore remaining soluble. Many of the key ingredients seem to be doing a number on boosting collagen production. One of the highlights is l Kollaren (INCI: Aqua, urea, glucose, guanidine HCL and tripeptide-1). This is a peptide that mimics the relationship of the growth factors involved in the healing process and synthesis of collagen. It is joined by another peptide, tripeptide-10 citrulline mimics a molecule that regulates collagen fibers.
Your Best Face Correct ($150). This is still my hands down favorite eye cream and I am pleased to be converting my friends one by one. I was glad to hear from one of them that Correct eliminated her dark under eye circles for the first time in her life. In addition, it is a great firmer and smoother. Say goodbye to crepe. The formula has been updated since our last Five Best and now includes some of the latest heavy hitters known to cosmeceuticals such as teprenone, lipochroman-6 and Syn-Tacks.
Osmotics Renovage Cellular Eye Repair Cream ($78). This has (like the reformulated YBF Correct, the IT ingredient of the year, teprenone. This stabilizes telomeres and extends the number of times cells can remake themselves and it is helped along by another ingredient called carnosine. These are long term solutions, but for a quicker fix, this cream is good at depuffing and has a botanical that can prevent the formation of expression wrinkles.
Derma Radiant Ageless Eyes ($29). This does more than provide quick relief. There is the antioxidant peptide formulation, Matrixyl 3000, which along with retinol, encourages collagen synthesis. I now know thanks to Gessato (see my earlier post) that aloe is also helpful in the collagen department. Derma Radiant, for what it’s worth, claims to use mid-leaf aloe, which it says is where the most potent properties reside. Amongst the botanicals is euphrasia officinalis. As this also goes by the name of eyebright it should need no further explanation. Humulus lupulus (hops) has been clinically established to be an anti-depressant. Since this is what goes into making beer, it puts a whole new meaning to happy hour. Fascinating though that is, it doesn’t explain why it is in an eye cream. It turns out that hops come with prenylated flavonoids that are antioxidant. Be warned, this eye cream tightens but is a little drying: use with a moisturizer.
Ingredients in Derma Radiant Ageless Eyes
Deionized water, ceteraryl alcohol, ceterearyl glucoside, glycerin, hesperidin methyl chalcone, montmorillonite, steareth 20, dipeptide-2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3, caprilyc/capric triglyceride, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloydimethyl taurate copolymer, squalane, polysorbate 60, butylene glycol, palmitoyl oligopeptide, polysorbate 20, carbomer, sodium hyaluronate, retinol, lavender extract, licorice extract, chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract, centella asiatica, euphrasia officinalis, biotin, hops extract, L-tyrosine, rosacanina fruit extract, citric acid, propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, propylparaben.
Ingredients in Osmotics Renovage
Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Seed (Shea) Butter, Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride, Squalane, Teprenone, Butylene Glycol, Aminoguanidine, Decarboxy Carnosine HCL, Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glycerol Stearate, PDG-100 Stearate, Ubiquinone, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Dimethicone, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Cholecalcipherol, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Carbomer, Titanium Dioxide, Disodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol.
Ingredients in Correct
Reverse osmosis water, Eyeseryl (water, acetyl tetrapeptide-5), licorice root extract, Haloxyl (hydroxysuccinimide, chyrsin, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3), Snap-8 (water, acetyl octapeptide-3), olivem (cetearyl olivate), Matrixyl 3000 (glycerin, butylene glycol, water, carbomer, polysorbate-20, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3), cucumber extract, Renovage (triglyceride, teprenone), nylon-12, triglyceride, Syn-Tacks (glycerin, palmitoyl dipeptide-5, diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate),alpha arbutin, nutmeg butter, caffeine, olive leaf extract, vitamin e, ethyhexyl palmitate, vitamin B5, dimethyl isosorbide, spin trap (phenyl butyl nitrone), Lipochroman-6 (dimethylmethoxy chromanol), Sepilift DPHP (dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline), idebenone, alpha lipoic acid, sodium hyaluronate, c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, violet leaf absolute, oakmoss absolute, triethanolamine, paraben du.
Ingredients in IS Clinical
Water, sodium hyaluronate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, acetyl octapeptide-3, glyceryl dilaurate, pseudoalteromonas extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, tripeptide-10 citrulline, tripeptide-1, lecithin, silica dimethyl silylate, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, glycosaminoglycans, urea, glucose, guanidine HCI, dipalmitoyl hydroyproline, panthenol, centella asiatica, phospholipids, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, pantothenic acid, phytonadione, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, butylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, triethanolamine, PVP, ethylhexyl palmitate, disodium EDTA, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol.
Ingredients in Optyma by Dermophisiologique
Water, PEG-30 dipolyhdroxystearate, dicapryl ether, zea mays oil, glycerin, caprilyc/capric triglyceride, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, sweet almond oil, beeswax, triethylhexanoin, aluminum starch, octenyl succinate, capryloyl glycine, olive fruit oil, silica, propylene glycol, magnesium stearate, magnesium sulfate, tocopheryl acetate, yeast extract, panthenol, wheat germ oil, coconut oil, poiesis factor, sylibum marianarum extract, lilium candidum extract, vaccinium myrtillus extract, malllow extract, helycrisum extract, centella asiatica extract, echinacea extract, hypericum perforatum extract, fragrance, linseed oil, hyaluronic acid, hydrolized glycosaminoglycans, glycine, escin, hexamidine disethionate, decyl oleate, sodium benzotriazoyl, butyphenol sulfonate, buteth-3, tributyl citrate, lecithin, ascorbyl palmitate, tetradibutyl pentaerithyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, citric acid.