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five best ingredients for wrinkles

Five Best Ingredients for Wrinkles

Is a Solution for:
Fine Lines, Wrinkles
Reviewed by Marta April 22, 2014 20 Comments

Thanks to tireless scientific research and studies in skin care, the aging process is no longer as inevitable as it was once thought to be. But when it comes to anti-wrinkle ingredients, some have the hard evidence to back up their claims while others just don’t live up to the hype. I’ve narrowed down these heavy-hitters as the Five Best ingredients to look out for in anti-aging skin care products. 

Matrixyl & Matrixyl 3000

Matrixyl and its big sister Matrixyl 3000 have been around for a few years now. There has been compelling anecdotal evidence that well-formulated serums with either ingredient are extremely effective — that’s certainly been my experience. The trouble was that there wasn’t any independent research until 2013. Then, Matrixyl got its first independent endorsement when University of Reading researchers found that it can nearly double the amount of the protein collagen needed to give skin its elasticity. A bit of tech background: Matrixyl is palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3, and this is a peptide that specifically stimulates collagen synthesis and skin repair. Finally, I must make a personal plea to be wary of potions that claim to have turbo-concentrations of 10% or 20% Matrixyl or M3000; more does not mean more potent, and all the trials are at 4%.

Recommended Products: Your Best Face Correct ($150 in the shop), Arcona Peptide Hydrating Complex ($75), BRAD Biophotonic Ultra Elastin Lift ($210), Eslor Active Night Cream ($95 in the shop)

Human conditioned media

Surely a breakthrough in skincare, human conditioned media made its way out of wound healing trials and into cosmetics with great effect. If it can heal a wound, it can repair a wrinkle. Look out for human fibroblast conditioned media, human adipose stem cells or epidermal growth proteins. Typically, they are taken from human adipose (fat) cells. From the progenitor cell, many thousands of new cells have been grown in the lab. The many different proteins signal cells to do different things. FGF (found in E’shee products) are involved in angiogenesis and wound healing, for example. While overall skin tone and firmness can be addressed, human conditioned media really comes into its own as a wrinkle eraser.

Recommended Products: AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum ($149 in the shop), ReLuma Skin Illuminating Serum ($145/20 ml), ReLuma Anti-Aging Moisturizer ($85), Stemulation Elevate Eye Cream ($75)

Vitamin C

The stalwart of anti-aging skincare has tended to provoke either a love or hate reaction. I was one of vitamin C’s detractors — it didn’t work, made my skin dry and went all brown in the bottle. So, how did it come to be on my Five Best list? Well, the thing is that vitamin C has come a long way, baby. New versions are stable and powerful, and that means you don’t need the super high concentrations that caused skin irritations with the old versions — you don’t need to insist on 20% vitamin C! Less can be more. The important thing is to know your vitamin Cs, and look out for the good ones. Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate is effective at low concentrations and ideal for those with sensitive skin. MAP (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) is also a great choice and is specifically good for the suppression of melanin and hyperpigmentation. Those with acne-prone skin should look for sodium ascorbyl phosphate, also known as Stay C 50. Although prized for its antioxidant qualities, vitamin C also boosts the immune system and synthesizes collagen.

Recommended Products: Your Best Face Advanced CE Concentrate ($50 in the shop), E'shee Vitalizing C Serum ($119), Medik8 C-Tetra ($70 in the shop), Elizabeth Dehn for One Love Organics Vitamin C Active Moisture Serum ($68)

Copper Peptides

With one of the longest research pedigrees (thorough studies have been ongoing since the 1970s), there is no doubting copper peptides’ prowess. As the Cleveland Clinic points out, studies have shown that copper peptides promote the production of collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans while acting as an antioxidant. Clinical studies have found that copper peptides also remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and scar tissue because they activate the skin’s system responsible for those functions. There is a study showing that copper and LED light increase collagen production significantly. And when it comes to hair growth, copper helps in two ways: increasing follicle cell proliferation and decreasing programmed follicle cell death, which results in smaller follicles. Once fairly rare in beauty products, copper is coming into its own in anti-aging skincare and hair care products.

Recommended Products: Truth Vitality Advanced Complex ($59-79 in the shop), Truth Vitality Brow Empower ($39 in the shop), Medik8 Firewall ($145 in the shop), Kenneth Mark MD Antioxidant Hydrating Cream ($120)

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid, or the molecularly smaller sodium hyaluronate, offers a simple but effective solution for aging skin: moisture. Topically adding sodium hyaluronate transforms the dermis layer of your skin into a super-sponge for your face. By helping to maintain and attract water within the extracellular matrix, it not only hydrates the skin and increases its volume and density, but, by effect, temporarily stabilizes the intercellular skin matrix — the glue that holds your face together. Fun fact: your skin’s dermis layer is made up of about 70% water and claims nearly 50% of your body’s total hyaluronic acid allotment.

Recommended Products: Your Best Face Hydrate B ($45 in the shop), Hyalogic Episilk Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum ($59.95), Medik8 Growth Factor ($160), Arcona Peptide Hydrating Complex ($75).

see all our five best picksSee All Our Five Best Picks

  • May 7, 2015

    by Marta

    Hi Velma

    I should explain how Truth In Aging works. We test and review all products for at least 30 days. If the product is strongly recommended then we add it for sale in the shop. If we don't see results or the reviewer does not recommend a product then we don't include it. So, the Truth In Aging shop is curated by its own community of reviewers.

  • May 7, 2015

    by Velma Fernandez

    Do you ever recommend products that you don't sell "in the shop?"

  • September 27, 2014

    by Janice

    All of the recommended products are just too expensive and you hear so many different opions it's hard to know what to believe.

  • April 24, 2014

    by lisam

    I would love this opportunity. Matrixyl sounds very promising and at 44 I need some extra help with my skin in elasticity and moisture. Hyaluronic acid would definitely help with moisture! I have tried vitamin C before and I love that... I think this serum with all these fascinating ingredients would be fantastic on my skin and would love to review it!

  • April 23, 2014

    by joni

    Like many of your customers and followers, I have tried a plethora of creams and serums, ranging from drugstore varieties to expensive department store and medically endorsed products. One can spend a fortune just experimenting. I would not begrudge the money spent if I could find something which was of a "definitive-proof" status for my 66 year old skin. Face is mostly fine...neck needs help!
    It would be nice to be able to "try" something which is a costly product...if it works, by eliminating everything else, I could justify the expense.
    Many thanks for information and updates!

  • April 23, 2014

    by Aimee

    I am totally excited over what I read about Omni Phyto-Cell Serum, that it "is packed with proven wrinkle-fighting ingredients such as Phyto Stem Cells and Matrixyl 3000", especially the Matrixyl 3000, that "Matrixyl got its first independent endorsement when University of Reading researchers found that it can nearly double the amount of the protein collagen needed to give skin its elasticity."

    This product sounds like it is exactly what my 63 yr old skin needs. My skin is in pretty good shape...even on my neck there is no signs of aging or sagging. But, I am noticing some sagging around my chin...not much, but, enough to concern me. I also would like to see my cheek area to be more firmed.

    I hope that I get the chance to try out Omni Phyto-Cell Serum...if I do, I will definitely be doing the Happy Dance!

    Thanks so much for giving us these chances, Marta!

  • April 23, 2014

    by JuliaD

    I have never used a serum on my face and would love to try this to see if serums are worth the considerable expense. I turned 61 last month and all of sudden everything started looking like it needs help. Right now my routine consists of occasional use of the Sirius LED device ( requires a bit too much of a time committment for me when life gets busy) and a moisturizer. I know I need to do more. I found this article while looking for HELP!

  • April 23, 2014

    by Kelly

    As many have stated, there is much to love about the product ingredients. My skin has been hit hard by menopause and would surely give it the proper testing ground !

  • April 22, 2014

    by SandraJT

    I've tried serums with vitamin c, as well as with hyaluronic acid and copper peptides, but not a serum with all 3 of these ingredients. I'm a huge lover of serums & would be incredibly excited to try this product. I've got sagging in the neck, which I finally went & got botox for approximately a month ago, and which I was disappointed in the results of. Am now looking at other alternatives, including topical treatments.

  • April 22, 2014

    by Miles

    Is there a product that combines all (or most) of these ingredients in ONE serum or moisturizer??? Would love to get my hands on THAT! :)

  • April 22, 2014

    by Karen

    I agree that the various articles through truthinaging are invaluable to those of us who truly are seeking a healthy and results oriented skincare routine.

    I know I would like to try the Sciote brand serum for that very reason. To improve the skin's appearance and know that it is being accomplished in a safe and effective manner is what counts in this day of wonder creams full of numerous and many not so wonderful ingredients.

    Thank you again for steering so many of us towards the kinds of products that pamper and protect the skin.

  • April 22, 2014

    by Gina

    I've used Vitamin C products, but I have yet to try a product with either Copper Peptides or Hyaluronic Acid. I love the idea of trying a serum that is loaded with all three!

  • April 22, 2014

    by Sandy

    I've been waiting and waiting for a product that really works; the ingredients in this product sound promising.

  • April 22, 2014

    by Julie

    I am 60 years old and really feel it. My skin is not to bad, but sagging is definitely the problem. I have tried everything under the sun, and am beginning to think there is really nothing out there short of fillers or surgery, that will work

  • April 22, 2014

    by Julie

    I feel like that dog and would love to try a product to help smooth my face and neck -In my 60's and all the help I could get would be awesome --great article and i would love to prove it right

  • April 22, 2014

    by Tina Mulcahy

    I am new to this great site. I really loved the Sciote sample I recently received. Recently had laser and it was a great product. Would love to try more in this line.

  • April 22, 2014

    by Francine

    Informative and interesting article :-) I would definitely give Sciote Omni Phyto-Cell Serum a try with an open mind.

  • April 22, 2014

    by Lori

    I MUST try this product because I am obsessed with this line! I love the ingredients, sometimes I go to the Sciote website just to read the ingredients. I have yet to find any "bad guys" in any of the products. I'm saving up to buy as many Sciote products as possible. If you choose me to review this, well first of all you're saving me some money, but we can get this amazing product line in the TIA shop that much sooner. Everyone will love it!

  • April 22, 2014

    by Susan

    Thank you for an informative and helpful article. I plan to concentrate on these ingredients to target my aging skin.

  • April 22, 2014

    by Pam

    The Sciote brand looks like a winner to me, and as I don't have a serum, I think good results would be noticeable. (I'm early 50s) thanks for consideration.

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