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Five Best with Peptides

Five Best with Peptides 2012
February 29, 2012 Reviewed by Marta 8 Comments

Peptides have become a byword for anti-aging products. They are short chain proteins (which for some reason are pictured as ribbon-type things in chemistry books), mini proteins if you want to think of them that way, are active molecules that send signals to your cells. They are synthetics made in labs and often proprietary to the manufacturer - this means that there isn't much independent research to back up whether they work. Anecdotally, there does some to be evidence that they are effective anti-agers. Recently, I was asked to come up with a Five Best with peptides and, after giving it some thought, decided that the best way to respond would be to select my Five Best peptides and feature a standout product for each. Here they are:

Matrixyl 3000
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
The mother of peptides and perhaps the best known, it is popular with formulators and consumers. Two peptides that work synergistically to mimic the appearance of this broken down collagen, causing your skin to react by producing more collagen, as well as elastin. Products with Matrixyl 3000: Your Best Face Correct ($150 in the TIA shop), Cellbone Hyper Peptides, Calvin Klein’s antiaging foundation. Beautisol 99% Pure Peptide Rescue Advanced Serum ($120). This gets a lot of love from the TIA community. It has amped up its peptide power with seven other peptides including hexapeptide-11, tripeptide-1, and nonapeptide-1. A great deal of thought clearly went into developing this formula. Each peptide serves an important purpose in the battle against premature aging and wrinkling and their cumulative effect was described by Copley as remarkable. Beautisol is Nisha’s go to pm serum.

If you combine tripeptide-1, soy and wheat proteins and xanthan gum, you get Aldenine, which is supposed to boost production of it by 300% in seven days. It does this by going after a particular type of free radical called reactive carbonyl species (RCS). All the research has been conducted by the lab that makes and sells Aldenine, but products (see below) with it get good anecdotal reports and is supposed to be more effective than carnosine. Read more on Aldenine
Products with Aldenine: Osmotics Anti-Radical Age Defense ($111), Zelens Skin Science Serum, Dermaxime Rejuvenating Day Cream, Skin Doctors Antarctilyne Plump, Hydropeptide Power Lift ($54) has a total four peptides, a slew of antioxidants and, they boast, 21 hydrating elements. With the rich formula of a night cream, this is good for smoothing skin and evening out skin tone. With some silicone and preservatives, this is not formulated for the purists within us, but it is formulated to work.

Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3
A tetrapeptide is made up of four amino acids and, like all peptides, it signals our bodies to do things – like get busy and produce more collagem, for example. Unlike most peptides, caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 is derived from a growth factor. The caprooyl part is a lipid, which is supposed to increase stability and skin penetration. It is supposed to increase collagen lll by 34% as well as laminin production by 26% and laminin 5 by 49%.
Products with ChroNoLine: SenZen Infinity Never Ending Moisture ($95), Beautisol Need I Glow More Self Tanner ($23 in the TIA shop), La Vie Celeste’s moisturizer, rich cream and eye cream have all been reformulated to include ChroNoLine. The Extra Rich Face Cream also has apple stem cell and R-Lipoic acid and is moisturizing without being heavy or pore clogging.

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric
This is a tripeptide that is specifically, it is aimed at lifting sagging skin. It stimulates hyaluronan (HA) synthesis and expression of the proteoglycans, decorin and lumican. The company that makes it had positive results on loose skin on face, arms and double chins. Also known as Essenskin. Read more on it here
Products with Syn-Hycan: Osmotics Necollete ($75). The newly formulated Your Best Face Control ($160 in the TIA shop) also has another tripeptide known as Relistase that inhibits elastase thereby boosting collagen 1 synthesis. It also has Matrixyl 3000.

Copper peptides
GHK tripeotide
An independent 2002 study on 20 women showed that it increased collagen in 70% of those treated with GHK, compared to 50% for vitamin C and 40% for retinoic acid. I was particularly interested to read that combining GHK with red LED lights (get out those Baby Quasars or Sirius Auroras) has been shown to increase collagen production by fibroblasts.. Copper peptides have also been shown to assist hair growth. More on copper peptides.
Products with copper peptides: Skin Biology Hair Signals ($27 in the TIA shop), Skin Biology Folligen ($22 in the TIA shop), Skin Biology Super Cop 2X, Osmotics Blue Copper 5 ($125), which has Matrixyl 3000, copper PCA and copper ferment. Not formulated for purists, but this is very good for treating rosacea and works well when used in conjunction with LED.

  • June 13, 2013

    by Marine

    I love the Peptide Collagen Repair cream sold by I'm Fabulous Cosmetics. My skin has never felt so plump. Love it.

  • March 5, 2012

    by Julie Kay

    Jamie- Mad Hippie is a product you may want to give a try. Its list of ingredients is lovely and features Matrixyl 3000 and the prices are down to earth. Skinn by Dimitri James was my first find in good skincare. His day cream "Crease and Release" and night cream both, though priced slightly higher than Hippie, are still ones I suggest to those on a budget. Hope this helps! Peace ~jk

  • March 5, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Jamie, with peptides it can be difficult to find inexpensive options because the actives are synthetically manufactured and proprietary (meaning the labs that make them can charge a premium). However, there are some alternative anti-agers for under $65 and under $50, check them out below:

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  • March 5, 2012

    by Jamie

    Hello. Is there anything that the average woman aging woman can use that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I can't afford those expensive creams. =\

  • March 1, 2012

    by Marta

    Hi Oksana, I think that both Beautisol and Hydropeptide could be used with LED and would provide antioxidant benefits. They also both have tripeptide-1, a free radical scavenger that could be good at prevention.

  • March 1, 2012

    by Oksana

    can either Hydropeptide or Beautisol be used with LED? any synergistic effects, in your opinion?
    which one of the listed products best for early prevention (excluding copper peptides)?

  • February 29, 2012

    by Susan Dent

    Hi Marta and everyone at TIA, I don't get here often but it's always very informative and refreshing to read your work.

    I just wanted to ask, are Syn-Hycan and Essenskin actually the same ingredient. or not? Syn-Hycan when googled comes up as the Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate active, stimulating HA, lumican and decorin. I've also seen it under the name Syn-Glycan (might have originally been called that?) and also as "Glycan Booster Peptide" on the choose your own adventure, I mean active, Shenui website.

    But I thought Essenskin was a different active, "pentylene glycol, polysorbate-20, 3-aminopropane sulfonic acid, calcium hydroxymethionine and hydroxyethylcellulose", from your piece on turkey necks with the really cute neck photo. Does anyone know how that active actually works (does it stmulate anything)? I don't need to use such big guns at my age but am always curious about how ingredients work.

    Sorry for nit picking :)

  • February 29, 2012

    by Julie Kay

    My "independent research" proclaims (extremely loud and incredibly close- pun intended) that peptides do, indeed, work. Even the ones that affect this aging hippie offensively (Snap-8 and Argirline) do what they say they'll do. I've documented that elsewhere. As for these above, I adore ADORE and won't live without Matrixyl 3000. The effects are just too obvious; both while using and if I discontinue. My aging skin needs this more potent targeting agent. What I'd like to know is if these you've listed, Marta, are all team players TOGETHER. Have you ever seen a single product with them all or a cumulative combination? And if not is it because they don't work well in tandem or is it too expensive- OR would the industry want us to believe it's too expensive. I'm thinking for the DIY'rs out here.

    Knowledge is power. Peace ~jk

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