Sodium hyaluronate

This post has been updated: See our Five Best with Sodium Hyaluronate 2013

Sodium hyaluronate was put on the map when The Archives of Dermatology said it is one of three anti-aging treatments available that are proven to be clinically effective (the other two were retinol and laser resurfacing).  Since then, dermatologists have been increasingly recommending sodium hyaluronate (or hyaluronic acid). It is a naturally occurring and widespread component found within the extra-cellular space within bodily tissues, especially those of the face. Its water-binding and fills up the spaces between the connective fibers collagen and elastin in the dermis. Like most things, it decreases with age and, therefore, we need to top it up somehow. Here are the Five Best products with hyaluronic acid for doing just that.

SenZen’s Plump It Up Hydrating Serum ($48). Sodium hyaluronate is undoubtedly the star of the show there is a very nice supporting cast of silk amino acids and antioxidant botanicals including three types of tea. More unusually, there is magnolia, which is used as a skin whitener and to soothe irritation. Forsythia suspensa is one of SenZen’s signature ingredients and is an antioxidant that research has shown can outperform vitamin C. I reach for this when I am looking dried out and it goes nicely over a serum such as ReLuma.

Mango Madness Hydrospherex Hyaluronic Acid Firming Serum ($67). Copley is a big fan of Mango Madness and this serum is a good bet for anyone intrigued by sodium hyaluronate – because that’s about all there is here.  Hydrospherex is hyaluronic acid in two molecular sizes, water and preservatives. That’s it.

Your Best Face’s Hydrate B Concentrate ($40 in the TIA shop) is a simple formula that is mostly what it says on the tin. As well as sodium hyaluronate,there are two forms of vitamin B. There’s a one percent or so shot of DMAE, which works synergistically with the other B vitamins as it is a precurser of the B vitamin choline. DMAE, a favorite of Perricone MD and Nutra-Lift, has its detractors, however. Some claim that it damages cells, but the bottom line is more research is needed.  I like to use Hydrate B with my Sirius Aurora LED or over ReLuma’s serum for a little hydrating boost. YBF has also put together some DIY kits with Concentrate and botanical powders.

KaplanMD Lip 20 Gloss ($30). Here’s a good use of sodium hyaluronate: a lip plumper that is also a lip gloss (with some sexy shimmer). The plumping job is achieved by sodium hyaluronate in the form of patented molecules that easily penetrate the skin. Hyaluronate’s moisturizing power is backed up by shea butter and squalane. Another important ingredient is seabuckthorn (hippophae rhamnoides), which has loads of quercetin. One of Kaplan MD’s signature ingredients is black cohosh root extract. This is a source of plant-derived estrogen and is used as antiaging ingredient.  The only thing I am not so keen on is the chemical sunscreen ingredients.

Hydropeptide Power Lift ($80). This is a good firming cream for face and neck (I even gave it a Five Best neck cream status last year). Sodium hyaluronate is high up the list and it has four peptides plus a slew of antioxidants. One of the best ingredients is aldenine, a radical scavenger and it specifically goes after the reactive carbonyl species. It acts, therefore, as a cellular detoxifier, boosts collagen III production, and is supposed to protect cells from sunlight. Aldenine acts as a cellular detoxifyer and I have read that is more active than carnosine.

Ingredients in SenZen Plump It Up

Water, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, glycerin, sodium PCA, propanediol, jojoba seed oil, panthenol, tetrapeptide 17, silk amino acids, sodium hyaluronate, green tea, white tea, red tea, Job’s tears extract, forsythia suspensa extract, magnolia biondi extract, bacillus ferment, flax seed, liposomal blend, lavender oil, grapefruit oil, polyacrylate-13, polysobutene, polysorbate-20, butylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, fragrance, FD&C blue 1, D&C red 33

Ingredients in YBF Hydrate B Concentrate

Reverse osmosis water, vitamin B5, sodium hyaluronate, niacin B3, dimethylamioethanol (DMAE), paraben DU

Ingredients in Hydropeptide Power Lift

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer/Isodecyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lecithin, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Glutamyl Heptapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Ceteareth-20, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Menthyl Lactate, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Polydiethyleneglycol Adipate/IPDI Copolymer, O-Cymen-5-OL, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Diacetyl Boldine, Tropolone, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, 1, 2-Hexanediol, Fragrance.

Ingredients in KaplanMD Lip 20 Treatment Gloss

Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 3%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene,, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, polyisobutene, ethylene propylene styrene copolymer, octylodecanol, silica silicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, sunflower seed awax, peppermint, beeswax, cadellia wax Hippophae Rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn Berry) Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa (Black Cohosh) Root Extract, Atelocollagen, Sodium Hyaluronate,, palmitoyl oligopeptide, carbomer, sodium chondrotin sulfate, tocopherol, lecitin, water, polysorbate 80, butylene glycol, retinyl palmitate, silica dimethyl silylate, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylene glycol, mica CI77019, iron oxides CI77491 CI77499 CI774492, titatnium dioxide CI77891, Red 28 lake CI451012, Red 7 lake CI158501, Carmine, CI75470, Bismuth Oxychloride CI77163

Ingredients in Mango Madness Hydrospherex

Hyaluronic Acid Low Molecular Weight, Hyaluronic Acid High Molecular Weight. Other ingredients: Purified Water, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.