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Glycoderma Revitalizing Facial Cream- reviewed and rejected

Is a Solution for:
Sagging Skin
October 8, 2010 Reviewed by Marta 4 Comments

Glycoderma Complete Care System, an Italian brand, came on to my radar screen when a reader asked me to take a look at Revitalizing Facial Cream. On the face of it, I can see why; it has a hefty 15% or even 20% dose of glycolic acid, as some good looking anti-wrinkle ingredients and costs only $24.99. However, there are many reasons why I wouldn’t use this.

For a start, 15% glycolic (although a relatively gentle alpha hydroxy acid made from sugar) is at the upper end of what I’d use on my face and I certainly wouldn’t use 20% version more than once a week. However, Glycoderma instructs use of Revitalizing Facial Cream to be daily for three months. If I was to consider this, I would want to be certain that all the other ingredients were super gentle. Not so.

There are so many ingredients here that are potential skin irritants. I haven’t quite got to the bottom of diethylhexyl cyclohexane, but a search on diethylhexyl always throws it up alongside phthalates, part of a group of chemicals known as endocrine disruptors, that interfere with the body’s endocrine, or hormone system. Cyclohexane is listed separately by the EWG, where it says that it is associated with neurotoxicity.  Not far behind it on the ingredients list is sodium hydroxide, which various studies acknowledge to be a strong irritant that is corrosive to the skin and eyes. Then there is every paraben known to man, phenoxyethanol and imidazolidinyl urea.

To be fair, there are some good antioxidants in the midst of all of this, such as wheat germ and green tea. Ceramide-3 is a signaling molecule and it helps the skin retain moisture. However, given the backdrop of irritants here, soothing calendula and allantoin seem to have their work cut out for them.

I couldn’t help but compare it to Reviva’s glycolic cream. Granted this is only a 5% concentration of glycolic (although I believe that there is a 10% version as well). But, according to Renova, they use actual strands of glycolic that enter the skin’s own natural polymer structure, supposedly to penetrate more effectively to induce better exfoliation. The rest of the formulation is so clean and green that it makes Glycoderma look like land fill.

Ingredients in Glycoderma

Water, glycolic acid, octyldodecanol, glyceryl stearate, diethylhexyl cyclohexane, cetearyl alcohol, glycerin, dicaprylyl ether, ceteareth-20, sodium hydroxide, bisabolol, butylene glycol, dimethicone, rapeseed sterols, fragrance, magnesium aluminum silicate, xanthan gum, ceteareth-12, cetyl palmitate, sweet almond oil, tetrasodium EDTA, wheat germ oil, ceramide-3, propylene glycol, calendula extract, grape extract, horse chestnut extract, allantoin, green tea extract, retinyl palmitate, glyceryl arachidonate , glyceryl linoleate, phenoxyethanol, hexydecanol, glycyrrhetinic acid, imidazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, propylparaben, butyphenyl methylpropional, hydroxycitronelliol, benzyl salicylate, hexyl cinnamal, citronnelol, benzyl benzoate, geraniol, hydroxyisohexyl-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde

Ingredients in Reviva 5% Glycolic

Purified water, 5% glycolic acid polymer (extracts of sugar and rhubarb), extracts of pumpkin, peach, sage, comfrey, chamomile, witch hazel, vitamins A, D, E, safflower oil, sunflower oil.

  • January 3, 2016

    by Edith

    Glycolic acid is not a treatment for sagging skin. It is used to gently exfoliate the outer layer of skin cells to prevent growth of sun damaged areas into cancer cells. My dermatologist told me to use it at 15% strength daily about 20 years ago. Men achieve by his same effect on the areas of their faces that they shave every day.

    Don't expect it to do a thing for sagging skin unless the product has other ingredients in it. The purpose of glycolic acid (fruit acids) treatment is to remove pre-cancerous skin cells from your skin. I use it on the backs of my hands, also.
    Ask your dermatologist. He/she may sell you some without parabens.

  • December 28, 2014

    by Angela

    "Cyclohexane" is not in the list of ingredients,"diethylhexyl cyclohexane" is. This makes a HUGE difference!! The ingredient in the product is derived from castor oil and is used with the other ingredients to make a very effective moisturizer. The diethylhexyl cyclohexane lowers the melting point of the emulsion and makes the product more stable. See patent #DE2003140412 for more information.

  • October 9, 2010

    by marta

    Hi Colinmack, glycolic is going to make your skin more sensitive so you have to make sure that it isn't alongside ingredients that will irritate and be sure to take a look at other products in your regimen and put anything to one side that has something that might irritate for a day or two while using a glycolic. Ideally, though you should look at using a glycolic that is formulated with things that will soothe your skin. You could take a look at La Vie Celeste's glycolic mask - effective but gentle:

  • October 8, 2010

    by colinmack

    What is the best way to use a glycolic cream? It seems everytime I try I break out. I usually do well with Reviva products but hesitate on the glycolic cream because of this. But I know it has good benefits.

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