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Hydropeptide Even Out and new actives for dark spots

Is a Solution for:
Age Spots
July 23, 2011 Reviewed by Marta 7 Comments
Dark spots, hyperpigmentation, leopard spots, lentigines (that’s the posh name) and melasma - note the unilateral refusal to utilize age spots - are very hard to treat safely. The Holy Grail is to find non-bleaching and benign alternatives to hydroquinone and it remains relatively illusive. The best dark spot fader I have found so far is Lumixyl’s Topical Brightening and it works even better with LED green light. But there is always the hope that there may be better and so I was excited to receive a sample of Hydropeptide’s Even Out ($60).

Hydropeptide does not formulate for those that want only natural ingredients with nothing potentially nasty. But its products work far more often than not and people looking for results may choose to lighten up (yes, that is an embarrassing pun) when it comes to things like sodium hydroxide.

Whether Hydropeptide Even Out does give results remains to be seen. Before embarking on my test I wanted to check what the hyperpigmentation actives were.  I was recently unpleasantly surprised to discover that the skin brightening active in Algenist was a weed killer – and I’d been using it for several weeks.

Hydropeptide Even Out relies on two actives, B-White and ChromaBright, bolstered by lactic acid and resveratrol.

B-White is a peptide - oligopeptide-68 - that is said to inhibit tyrosinase activity, inhibit melanin synthesis, and decrease the proteins involved in the pigmentation process. The maker of the peptide says that it mimics a growth factor, the TGF-ß and so, unlike many brightening agents, it doesn’t rely alone on inhibiting tyrosinase, which is the enzyme primarily responsible for skin pigmentation. Behaving like a TGF-ß ,it also “inhibits the action of the MITF cellular pathway to decrease constitutive and facultative pigmentation, allowing for a safe lightening effect”.

Chromabright, which is actually something called dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate, seems to focus on inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It claims to do a much better job than spot faders such as arbutin, kojic acid or MAP. Tests by the manufacturer (not independent ones, unfortunately) showed a 50% reduction in melasma and lentigines in 30 days. It also has a useful ability to prevent future sun damage.

I’ll be trying out Hydropeptide Even Out and will see what kind of result I get in 30 days.

Ingredients

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Trimethylpentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Oleifera (Japanese Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Panthenol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Oligopeptide-68, Dimethymethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Menthyl Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dimethiconol, Laureth-7, Sodium Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Methylisothiazolinone
  • November 21, 2011

    by Marta

    Hi Susan, unfortunately Even Out did absolutely nothing for me.

  • November 21, 2011

    by Susan Dent

    Hi Marta, Did you complete the trial for this product yet? How did it go?

  • July 27, 2011

    by Kim

    Actually, I've been wondering why I've seen nothing on this site about Hydropeptide's Anti-Wrinkle Cellular Transformation Serum. Personally, it works better for me than the ReLuma, which I tried on the recommendation of many here. I've been using the Hydropeptide transformation serum for about five years and it has definitely made a difference in my skin texture, smoothing/firmness. I've spoken to the company, as well, and love the folks there. I would highly recommend trying that product of theirs out.

  • July 27, 2011

    by Jaysie

    Marta - Sounds like you are an excellent test case for skin lighteners as your spots are a combination of hormonal, sun exposure, and the one under your eye that you've had most of your life might just be a pigment anomaly. I'll be looking for your review!

  • July 27, 2011

    by Beth

    Hi Marta,
    Interesting product....I hope it works! I've had melasma on my forehead for several years; I hide it fairly successfully with make-up. I've also had 6 IPL treatments, which haven't had nearly the effect I'd hoped for. IPL does seem to work well on the melasma on the sides of my face though. I also use Skinceuticals pigment regulator.

    I had a facial recdently & they suggested a melanage minipeel. Have you heard of it? They said it works really well for some people but with melasma who knows what will work; it's tricky stuff.
    Looking forward to hearing about your Even Out results!

  • July 24, 2011

    by Marta

    Hi Stephanie, I am trying this on my right hand (large freckle) and just under my right eye where I have a leopard spot (I've had it most of my life so it might be a lost cause). However, your point has prompted me to also go for a darkish sun spot on my chest, which is fairly new and less exposed to the sun.

  • July 23, 2011

    by Stephanie

    Hi Marta,
    Are you trying this on your face or on a body part? I've been wondering if one needs to use a different regimen depending on the location of the spot in question, and whether or not the spot is in an area that gets more or less sun - ie covered in clothing or not?

    I am not discounting sunblock, but I can't help but wonder about the every day impact of received sunlight on the face, hands etc.

    Thanks,
    Stephanie

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