Dark spots, hyperpigmentation, leopard spots, lentigines (that’s the posh name) and melasma - note the unilateral refusal to utilize age spots - are very hard to treat safely. The Holy Grail is to find non-bleaching and benign alternatives to hydroquinone and it remains relatively illusive. The best dark spot fader I have found so far is Lumixyl’s Topical Brightening and it works even better with LED green light. But there is always the hope that there may be better and so I was excited to receive a sample of Hydropeptide’s Even Out ($60).

Hydropeptide does not formulate for those that want only natural ingredients with nothing potentially nasty. But its products work far more often than not and people looking for results may choose to lighten up (yes, that is an embarrassing pun) when it comes to things like sodium hydroxide.

Whether Hydropeptide Even Out does give results remains to be seen. Before embarking on my test I wanted to check what the hyperpigmentation actives were.  I was recently unpleasantly surprised to discover that the skin brightening active in Algenist was a weed killer – and I’d been using it for several weeks.

Hydropeptide Even Out relies on two actives, B-White and ChromaBright, bolstered by lactic acid and resveratrol.

B-White is a peptide - oligopeptide-68 - that is said to inhibit tyrosinase activity, inhibit melanin synthesis, and decrease the proteins involved in the pigmentation process. The maker of the peptide says that it mimics a growth factor, the TGF-ß and so, unlike many brightening agents, it doesn’t rely alone on inhibiting tyrosinase, which is the enzyme primarily responsible for skin pigmentation. Behaving like a TGF-ß ,it also “inhibits the action of the MITF cellular pathway to decrease constitutive and facultative pigmentation, allowing for a safe lightening effect”.

Chromabright, which is actually something called dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate, seems to focus on inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It claims to do a much better job than spot faders such as arbutin, kojic acid or MAP. Tests by the manufacturer (not independent ones, unfortunately) showed a 50% reduction in melasma and lentigines in 30 days. It also has a useful ability to prevent future sun damage.

I’ll be trying out Hydropeptide Even Out and will see what kind of result I get in 30 days.

Ingredients

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Trimethylpentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Oleifera (Japanese Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Panthenol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Oligopeptide-68, Dimethymethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Menthyl Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dimethiconol, Laureth-7, Sodium Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Methylisothiazolinone