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IS Clinical is all about "intelligent innovation" and so I am about to see if I can boost my eye-Q with the company's brand new eye cream, Youth Eye Complex ($85). I started using my free sample this morning and I will come back with a full review in three weeks or so.
In the meantime, one of the highlights of the ingredients is l Kollaren (INCI: Aqua, urea, glucose, guanidine HCL and tripeptide-1). This is a peptide that mimics the relationship of the growth factors involved in the healing process and synthesis of collagen. Specifically, it is supposed to stimulate the synthesis of collagen I and III, fibronectin and laminin.
Another peptide, tripeptide-10 citrulline looks promising because it mimics a molecule that regulates collagen fibers. As we get older, decorin (the molecule in question) activity declines. The new peptide, tripeptide-10 citrulline, behaves like decorin so that the collagen fibers are fooled into thinking they should still be productive.
A trial was conducted on 43 women, about half of which were given tripeptide-10 citrulline. Granted this was conducted by the manufacturer, Lipotec. Nevertheless, the results (published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science) aren't bad with 54% showing an increase in skin suppleness. Over a two month period, it was shown to make the fibres more uniform.
Aldenine is the result of combining tripeptide-1 with soy and wheat proteins (both here in Youth Eye Complex). It is supposed to boost production of collagen III (the type of collagen we had when we were very young) by 300% in seven days.
Like Victoria Principal's eye cream, IS Clinical's Youth Eye Complex uses glycosaminoglycans. Their primary role is to maintain and support collagen, elastin and keep protein fibers in balance and proportion. GAGs also promote the ability of the collagen and elastin fibers to retain moisture, therefore remaining soluble (Source). They are important in the reaction of copper peptides to help repair wrinkles and acne scarring. Known as the water reserve of the viable epidermis and dermis, these carbohydrates are dependent on fluid intake. Glycosaminoglycans are also linked to the lymphatic system.
Also notable is acetyl octapeptide-3, marketed as SNAP-8 it is one of those expression wrinkle inhibiters. Studies of in vitro samples of pseudoalteromonas extract showed a 128% increase in collagen I production over 15 days; 81% in collagen IV; and 31% in elastin.
Water, sodium hyaluronate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, acetyl octapeptide-3, glyceryl dilaurate, pseudoalteromonas extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, tripeptide-10 citrulline, tripeptide-1, lecithin, silica dimethyl silylate, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, glycosaminoglycans, urea, glucose, guanidine HCI, dipalmitoyl hydroyproline, panthenol, centella asiatica, phospholipids, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, pantothenic acid, phytonadione, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, butylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, triethanolamine, PVP, ethylhexyl palmitate, disodium EDTA, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol.