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IS Clinical sent me a sample of their brand new eye cream, Youth Eye Complex ($85) and I started using it in early January. Nothing much happened in the first week or so, but around ten days into my trial it kicked into action and I am really liking the results. This eye cream smoothes out fine lines, depuffs and does a nice lifting job. I'd happily buy a replacement of Youth Eye Complex.

One thing I have noticed is how hydrated the skin around my eyes is, despite harsh winter weather. This is surely due to the sodium hyaluronate and phospholipids, weird and wondrous things that hold on to moisture, and glycosaminoglycans. GAGs also promote the ability of the collagen and elastin fibers to retain moisture, therefore remaining soluble.

Many of the key ingredients seem to be doing a number on boosting collagen production. One of the highlights is l Kollaren (INCI: Aqua,  urea, glucose, guanidine HCL and tripeptide-1). This is a peptide that mimics the relationship of the growth factors involved in the healing process and synthesis of collagen. Specifically, it is supposed to stimulate the synthesis of collagen I and III, fibronectin and laminin.

Another peptide, tripeptide-10 citrulline mimics a molecule that regulates collagen fibers. As we get older, decorin (the molecule in question) activity declines. The new peptide, tripeptide-10 citrulline, behaves like decorin so that the collagen fibers are fooled into thinking they should still be productive. A trial was conducted on 43 women, about half of which were given tripeptide-10 citrulline. Granted this was conducted by the manufacturer, Lipotec. Nevertheless, the results (published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science) aren’t bad with 54% showing an increase in skin suppleness. Over a two month period, it was shown to make the fibres more uniform.

Aldenine is the result of combining tripeptide-1 with soy and wheat proteins (both here in Youth Eye Complex). It is supposed to boost production of collagen III (the type of collagen we had when we were very young) by 300% in seven days.

The only thing that I'd prefer IS Clinical not have included is triethanolamine, a fragrance additive. The US National Library of Medicine says there is a strong evidence that Triethanolamine is a human skin, immune system and respiratory toxicant. One or more animal studies show sense organ effects at very low doses, especially when used around the mouth, eyes and lips.

Ingredients

Water, sodium hyaluronate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, acetyl octapeptide-3, glyceryl dilaurate, pseudoalteromonas extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, tripeptide-10 citrulline, tripeptide-1, lecithin, silica dimethyl silylate, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, glycosaminoglycans, urea, glucose, guanidine HCI, dipalmitoyl hydroyproline, panthenol, centella asiatica, phospholipids, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, pantothenic acid, phytonadione, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, butylene glycol, xanthan gum, carbomer, triethanolamine, PVP, ethylhexyl palmitate, disodium EDTA, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol.