Charlie’s Angel Jaclyn Smith is well into her 60s, but you wouldn’t know it from the airbrushed picture (shown left) on the website of her skincare collection, Jaclyn Smith Beauty. The blurb says that her skin “appears ageless” – that would be one way of putting it. I was quick to assume that her beauty products would be just as phony, but actually have to admit that they aren’t too bad.
Not great, but not the worst. And if you are willing to overlook the multitude of harsh preservatives and silicones there are a couple of interesting actives that crop up. I especially like saccharomyces copper ferment; this is an extract of yeast fermented in the presence of copper ions that may have antioxidant properties. It is a favorite ingredient of Osmotics, whose potions (which are very good) are generally a little more expensive than Jaclyn Smith’s Rehydrating Day Moisturizer ($58) and Repairing Night Moisturizer ($42), both of which feature the copper ferment. It is also in the fabulous Benir Beauty BV9 Bee Venom Cream and Kenneth Mark MD Antioxidant Hydrating Cream.
Rehydrating Day Moisturizer also has phospholipids, which both attract water and hold on to it. This makes it a helpful moisturizer. Phospholipids are actually a rather strange ingredient described as a having “heads” and “tails.” These arrange themselves into a structure that is similar to skin and is often called a “second skin.” This ingredient can also be found in Arcona Hydrating Serum and Avitalin Bee Venom BioLift Complex. Jaclyn Smith's moisturizer also has ubiquinone, a form of CoQ10 that can to penetrate the skin easily, and reduce free-radical damage due to its antioxidant properties.
Unfortunately, there are no less than five sunscreen ingredients that are somewhat controversial and would deter me from using this cream. Octinoxate is associated with reproductive toxicity, has estrogen-like effects and should not be used by pregnant women. Ethylhexyl salicylate is also called octisalate and can cause contact dermatitis. Then there is titanium dioxide, which is photo-sensitive and can cause free-radical damage.
Jaclyn Smith’s repairing Night Moisturizer also has some troubling and off-putting ingredients. There’s every paraben known to man, despite consumer concerns about links to cancer, and the formulator seems to be especially bacteria-phobic as a slew of other preservatives including BHT, a carcinogen (at least as far as the State of California is concerned) and phenoxyethanol. These, handful of silicones and various other synthetics drown out the good. Which is a pity because here again we have copper ferment, vitamins, wheat protein and a peptide, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, otherwise known as Syn-coll and supposedly more powerful than Matrixyl.
All in all, Jaclyn Smith Beauty isn’t really good enough for one of Charlie’s chosen ones.
Ingredients in Day Moisturizer: Active: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 5.5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4.0%, Titanium Dioxide 1.5%, Homosalate 1.0%; Other: Water, Dimethicone, Capreylic/ Capric Triglyceride, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Phospholipids, Soluble Collagen, Saccharomyces/ Copper Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Ubiquinone, Dimethylaminoethanol, Thioctic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients in Repairing Night Moisturizer: Water, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Saccharomyces Copper Fennel (SIC), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Elastin, Allantoin, Retinol, Cyclomethicone, Dimethiconol, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Lecithin, Glycolipids, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride, Dimethylaminoethanol, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-6, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin