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Reviewed by Ann
I hadn’t ever taken too much notice of what my skincare products contained until I made the leap from simply having “normal” skin to “mature” skin. Now I had concerns beyond a drying cleanser or an overly greasy moisturizer. I thought the natural progression was from Target to Macy’s.
As I made my way through the often-pricey department store brands, I found the effects to be nonexistent or highly temporary, washing away in the evening. What was actually supposed to diminish my wrinkles? While researching Lancome’s Visionnaire, I discovered Truth in Aging, and learned to distrust the shiny cosmetic counters and the poreless women working behind them.
Kaplan MD’s Night Replenishment Concentrate is sold at higher-tier stores – Neiman’s and Bergdorf’s. It comes with a gimmicky wand called the “Micro-Circulation Applicator” as well as a ginormous price tag ($225 for 1.7 oz.). It’s been developed by a Beverly Hills dermatologist, Stuart Kaplan. I was skeptical and prepared to be disappointed.
The product is somewhere between a lotion and a cream. It is very oily and can separate, so an occasional shaking is required every few days. The texture is very smooth and it applies easily. I have not had to use very much in an application. I’ve spread it all over my face, including around my eyes. The light fragrance is neither pleasant nor unpleasant.
After applying the cream, I then take the “magic” wand and massage it into my skin, using circular motions. The applicator is cold and silver coated. It is supposed to draw heat away from the skin, allowing the actives to penetrate more deeply. It does feel nice, particularly while it’s been so hot. While the cream feels sort of oily and like it’s sitting on top of my skin, once I roller it, it does feel absorbed. Did it just get wiped off? Well, the silver tip never feels greasy.
On night one, I was concerned that my face would be broken out and irritated by the heavy-ish cream. But when I woke up the next morning my face was not at all oily or more shiny than usual. It felt so soft and looked really bright.
After using this nightly for about a month now, I think it is an excellent moisturizer. It leaves my normal skin supple, with the softness of two decades earlier, and balanced. I always massage any product left on my palms in to the backs of my hands, and these too are so soft. I will give it some credit for brightening and evening my skin tone, and maybe there is some wrinkle-reducing and smoothing going on. It works really well with and seems to be enhanced by Osmosis Correct. This combination at night makes for a very happy morning. I look so well-rested and unlined.
Night Replenishment Concentrate relies upon a newish anti-aging chemical commercially called “Juvinity.” Juvinity is a combination of geranylgeranyl isopropanol and a triglyceride. In this case, it is the familiar caprylic/capric triglyceride, which is the third ingredient. This chemical is said to “reduce oxidative stress and rebalance mitochondrial activity.” In plain English, it works on extending a cell’s longevity. In a test on 28 women done by the company who invented Juvinity, wrinkles were found to be reduced by 26.5%. It was patented in 2011.
When looking for information on Juvinity, I came across some different products that use it. One is a body lotion available in Europe called “Body Youther,” by Dr. Kitzinger. Another was called Breastgro Firming Mask. It was part of a system to “naturally” enhance your breasts. It must be a versatile chemical! It’s oil soluble, hence the more oily nature of the product. While the triglyceride is the third ingredient, it’s active partner is ninth.
There’s also a peptide – Matrixyl Synth’6, and it’s in the top third of the ingredients list.
Dr. Kaplan has included 21 organic extracts in this recipe. You get your RDA of fruits and veggies! Carrots, borage, ginkgo biloba, green and white tea, and he dips into the sea with algae and kelp, to give you a sampling. And if that’s not enough, there are also stem cells from the Swiss apple that never ages and from the Alp rose leaf.
There are some junky ingredients. Of course phenoxyethanol is the preservative of choice. There are a couple of incarnations of dimethicone. Butylene glycol is near the end of the list. This is a new product for Kaplan. I compared it to the old night cream, and it is a drastic improvement. No more parabens!
While I have enjoyed using this cream, the cost is prohibitive. I can see that it includes the latest and greatest ingredients, and no expense has been spared with packaging. The wand comes enrobed in a navy velveteen drawstring bag, the same shade as the sturdy cardboard box and heavy jar. Thank you, TIA, for the treat. But I doubt I’d actually buy it. I’m not a movie star or a model (or particularly rich) to justify the expense.
I remembered a product reviewed on this site, which included some stunning before and after photos. I looked it up, Skin Nutrition’s Night Cream, and found it too is chock-a-block with plant and fruit ingredients. At only $75, I’m planning on trying this on top of the Osmosis Correct to see if I can get the same level of softness. Maybe I can have my cake and afford to eat it too? Maybe I’d better make that blueberries!
Ingredients: Purified Water (Aqua), Octyldocecyl Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene, Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes, Sqalane, Jojoba Esters, Cetyl Alcohol, Geranylgeranylisopropanol, Geranylgeranylisopropanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Cetyl Dimethicone, Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rhodendron Ferrugineum (Alp Rose), Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Malus Domestica (Swiss Apple) Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Gamay Teinturier Freaux Grape) Fruit Cell Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract*, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract*, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Extract*, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Extract*, Panax Ginseng Root Extract*, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract*, Trifolium Pratense (Red Clover) Extract*, Rosa Canina Fruit (Rose Hips) Extract*, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract*, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Extract*, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract*, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract*, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract*, Ginkgo Biloba Extract*, Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail) Extract*, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract*, Ilex Paraguensis (Yerba Mate) Leaf Extract*, Sambucus Nigra (Elderflower) Extract*, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract*, Fucus Vesiculosus (Seaweed) Extract*, Porphyra Yezoensis (Algae) Extract*, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Extract*, Soy Isoflavones, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Yeast Extract, Urea, Fragrance (Parfum), Sodium Benzoate, Lecithin, Isomalt, Lactic Acid, Glucosamine HCI, Algae Extract, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein