I was excited to see Lorac's new Breakthrough Performance Lipstick ($22) for two reasons. First, it is billed as a multitasker that is lip color, sunscreen and anti-ager. Secondly, I am already a fan of Lorac's Natural Performance Foundation
. My enthusiasm dissipated pretty rapidly, however, when I realized I was being age-washed.
My theory of age-washing is that there is a new bandwagon for makeup that is good for your skin and all too often cosmetic companies think they hitch a ride with nothing more than a drop of olive oil and a dab of vitamin E. Lorac claims that its lipstick it's "exclusive antiaging SMS Complex neutralizes and prevents the signs of aging by helping to stimulate collagen production and promote cell turnover". And what might SMS complex be?
Um, it would be olive oil and, um, vitamin E. OK, so there's jojoba seed oil as well.
As well as being unimpressive, this Lorac lipstick is controversial at best. The sunscreen active is octinoxate
, considered a moderate hazard, primarily because it can lead to developmental and reproductive toxicity through enhanced skin absorption. It’s a penetration enhancer and is easily absorbed into the skin. It can produce estrogen-like effects and should not be used by pregnant women and children. However, the research is contradictory as to what concentrations are toxic. One Norwegian study
in 2000 declared toxicity on mice at levels much lower that that used in sunscreen. Now is that something that you would put on your lips?
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Octyldodecanol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Polyethylene, Polybutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isostearyl Isostearate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Candelilla Cera), VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (Carnauba), 2 Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil (Olea Europaea), Ethyl Vanillin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Simmondsia, Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Oil), Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite , Tropolone, Silica. May Contain: Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Mica (CI 77019), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6 (CI 15850), Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140).