Makeup Memo - why matte falls flat
Matte foundation and too much powder can kill a youthful glow.
Using anything that is too matte looking on the face (and lips) accentuates dryness, which translates into looking older. As we age the loss of hydration adds to dullness in skin and the loss of collagen and elastin leads to wrinkles. Skin acts similarly to a piece of fruit as it dehydrates and shrivels. Think of how a fresh, plump plum turns into a prune as it crumples and shrinks, losing its ripe juiciness. So in order to appear more youthful and delicious, it’s essential to make sure that the face looks hydrated, glowing and plump.
Using overly matte products also takes away dimension. Flattening out the features with makeup means light doesn’t naturally bounce off the tops of our cheeks or the ridges of the mouth, which helps make them look fuller and generally more attractive.
Obviously, skin care is going to play an enormous role in this equation, but you don’t want your makeup to counteract all that loving care by slapping on the wrong type.
The only major exceptions to these suggestions are women who have incredibly oily skin who may need a more mattifying formula. But even they must make sure not to use too much makeup in the “powder danger zones” where it can accentuate wrinkles.
“Powder danger zones” are the outer corners of the under eye area, where crow’s feet appear, tops of the cheekbones, the upper lip line, and the smile lines next to the mouth.
Foundations marketed as “long-wear” whether they are powder or liquid are the biggest culprits in making skin look dry. The ingredients in these just suck up moisture like a sponge so it can attach to your skin like a mask. Yeek! You are better off reapplying once or twice throughout the day if really needed in certain spots, than wear a painted-on face that looks like the desert.
Mineral Powder Foundations
Many mineral powder foundations can look beautiful and glowing on the face.
As a proponent of liquid foundations for most of my career, I actually have learned to love some mineral powder foundations. The reason I say “some” and not “all” is because there is a quality difference between them, especially when it comes to how the product is made. The powders must be very finely milled or it looks too thick on the skin. They are great for creating a sheer, even layer that blends into the skin fairly easily and without much hassle.
The caveat with mineral powder is that if you put too much on your brush and go straight to the face you will look just as gunky and dry as if you had put on theater makeup. So using a light hand with a fluffier brush (not a tight kabuki brush), and avoiding putting too much product over the “danger zones” is the best advice I can give here.
Application for a Dewy, Youthful Look
Allow your daily moisturizer to set for about 2 minutes before you apply makeup. Your moisturizer shouldn’t leave your skin feeling greasy, because if it does all the makeup you apply will just slide right off. Then use a liquid or creamy foundation to spread all over your face as you would a moisturizer, making sure to blend out the edges near the hair and jaw line. To finish, add a light dusting of powder only in the T-Zone of your face, avoiding the “powder danger zones.” What you should have at the end is an even looking canvas that still has dimension and looks hydrated and youthful!
We can’t prevent aging, nor should we go crazy trying to fight Mother Nature, but let’s at least apply makeup that makes us look as great as we really are!
Thank goodness there are a huge variety of textures to choose from when selecting a base! Being a makeup artist who strongly believes that natural is better from a health standpoint, I’ve rounded up some of my favorite brands for you to try that use safe formulations (no parabens here!) and mostly have very natural and organic ingredients.
Liquid Foundation/Tinted Moisturizer:
100% Pure, Couleur Caramel, Dr. Hauschka, Jane Iredale, Josie Maran, Juice Beauty ($35 in the TIA store), Korres, Lavera, Physician’s Formula Organic Wear and ZuZu Luxe
Mineral Powder Foundation:
Alima Pure and Jane Iredale
Alima Pure, Jurlique and Youngblood