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At the beginning of the year, I like to offer some predictions for anti-aging breakthroughs and beauty trends, and then I wait eight months and go through the potentially masochistic ritual of seeing if any of them passed muster. So, was I right about mitochondria, actives everywhere and facial oils? Actually, my predictions for this year were not bad, and the good news is there is now much more to say — and try out. Read the update of my seven anti-aging predictions for 2014.
When scientists made the news at the end of 2013 with a discovery that they could turn the clock back for mice, they essentially put mitochondria on the anti-aging map. Mitochondria are responsible for providing the necessary energy for cell activity. I had hunch that this was a big deal but was frustrated not to find any anti-aging products that addressed mitochondria head on. And then, with the help of a tip from a member of the Truth In Aging community, I discovered MitoQ Moisturizing Anti-Aging Serum ($119 in the shop) and MitoQ 5mg Targeted Anti-oxidant Supplements ($69.95 in the shop). MitoQ uses a form of ubiquinone that was developed to target mitochondria. It is accumulated selectively and extensively by mitochondria, in contrast to other antioxidants, which distribute evenly throughout the cell. This accumulation — or concentration — is where MitoQ bases its claims of being 1,000 times stronger than other antioxidants. Hyperbolic though that seems, I still find MitoQ to be an excellent serum that is really one of the great Truth In Aging finds of the year. And you’ll find that TIA community reviewers of the serum and the supplements, overwhelmingly agree.
To prove my other point at the beginning of the year that beauty brands are getting extremely serious about their antioxidants, we got to know some new antioxidant powerhouses like Medik8 CE-Thione Rechargeable Vitamin C Serum ($150 in the shop). The vitamin C is “recharged” by glutathione and vitamin E. Glutathione wasn’t on my prediction hit list, but probably should have been. Look out for more on this “mother of all antioxidants.”
My prediction for 2014 was that we’ll see a lot more products that were once merely decorative or utilitarian containing one or more active ingredients. Happily for us consumers, actives are everywhere from shampoo to sunscreen, and some very intriguing combinations have been turning up this year.
Amarte Ultra Veil Sunscreen ($45) is perhaps the only sunscreen that I know of with epidermal growth factor for skin repair and collagen production, plus there’s sulfur to calm and brighten as well caviar extract for fatty acids, vitamins, minerals and amino acids.
Certainly not your mother’s red spot treatment, Medik8 Red Alert Serum ($60 in the shop) uses teprenone to provide calming relief from redness and flare-ups caused by skin hypersensitivity, rosacea irritation and erythema. Teprenone is one of the most cutting edge actives out there and was part of a Nobel prize winning anti-aging discovery a couple years ago. It is also in Medik8 Red Alert for Body ($75 in the shop), which is a great bruise and burn healer (yep, I’m a klutz).
We’ve gone beyond mere shampoo to treatments that help hair grow and reduce shedding. Our completely revamped Truth Vitality line is available this week with copper peptide infused shampoo and conditioner as well as the Truth Vitality Advanced Serum ($49 in the shop) and Brow Empower ($39 in the shop).
I’m especially excited that sprays have really taken off this year. These, my friends, are not toners or mere mists, but serums and moisturizers that you happen to spray on. The new and notable come with exciting actives – and results.
I think the whole idea of an anti-aging mist that cools hot flashes is genius. Osmotics Blue Copper 5 Cooling Moisture Mist ($35) really does relieve overheated skin in seconds. The cooling is done by a clever extract that comes from green algae and has specifically been called out as a “potent antioxidant” by researchers.
For those of us who need to replenish our vitamin D (and according to current science, that would be most of us), there’s the lovely Elizabeth Dehn Vitamin D Moisture Mist ($39 in the shop). Long-lasting hydration boosted by Alpine rose extract to protect against environmental stressors and dryness while shiitake mushroom is a rich source of vitamin D.
Kat Burki Beauty Elixir ($42) refreshes skin with bursts of lavender and aloe vera hydrosols. Raw grapefruit seeds and camu camu berries soothe and hydrate while also instantly revitalizing skin with vitamin C. And another new find is Blissoma Tone Adaptive Energy Tonique ($25.99), which is wonderful for problem skin, with nourishing organics, such as cantaloupe, red clover, basil and calendula.
Another prediction was that we will come to embrace facial oils. With good reason, too. As there is no water, there’s no need for nasty preservatives or things that hold creams together and stop them from separating like salad dressing. The result is concentrated actives. Now, it seems that there is a new facial oil every week.
One of our new finds is from Irish seaweed spa, VOYA My Little Hero Face Serum($102 in the shop) is packed with antioxidant oils as well as the brand’s signature seaweed. And a personal favorite of my mine is the Indie Lee Squalane Facial Oil ($32), with nothing but 100% pure olive-derived squalene.
For those looking for an oil-based cleanser, there’s Elizabeth Dehn for One Love Organics Active Moisture Vitamin B Cleansing Oil & Makeup Remover ($38 in the shop) with exfoliating pumpkin and papain.
My hero actives for the year are astaxanthin, which can eliminate free radicals 6,000 times more effectively than vitamin C, and copper peptides, which are powerful and proven wound healers, wrinkle repairers and encouragers of hair growth. This year, we have made some great new finds with my active heroes.
Benir Beauty BV 9 Platinum Bee Venom Cream($136 in the shop) has copper peptides and bee venom, no less, plus Coenzyme Q10, argireline and hyaluronic acid. Kenneth Mark MD Antioxidant Hydrating Cream with Astaxanthin($120) is much more than a two-fer with astaxanthinand copper peptides. It also boasts minerals, vitamin A, two forms of vitamin C, alpha lipoic acid and superoxide dismutase.
Osmotics Blue Copper 5 Prime ($135) is a new serum very much targeted at menopausal skin conditions. There’s a potent blend of copper, epidermal growth factor, natural artichoke leaf extract and a new tetrapeptide that promotes collagen and elastin. Mirai Purifying Body Serum ($29) gives your basic hydrating body lotion a boost with astaxanthin. Dry skin will appreciate shea butter, jojoba oil and hyaluronic acid.
Myotone Facial Toning Device ($279) was the first at-home microcurrent device that I found to work well. I haven’t been very impressed by others, such as the Nu-face or Serious Skincare. So, my prediction is that we’ll see more great microcurrent devices for use at home has, so far, not come true.
And there are still no stand-out neck creams. For that matter, there aren’t even many mediocre ones. I’m not sure why the beauty industry hasn’t tackled the challenge of coming up treatments for the neck’s very specific needs. In the meantime, I’m making do with off-label use of the above mentioned MitoQ Anti-Aging Moisturizer Serum and Osmotics Prime, as well as Eslor Active Night Cream ($95 in the shop).
Marta Wohrle is an anti-aging skin care and beauty expert and the founder/CEO of Truth In Aging. Marta is dedicated to uncovering the truth behind anti-aging product claims.