Natura Bissé says it was inspired by facial fillers when it created its new High Density Lift ($290). Well there certainly are plenty of fillers, too many, for a 1.7oz pot that costs nearly $300. But I told myself not to dismiss High Density Lift until I had investigated further – after all Natura Bissé claims to be using a “revolutionary” ingredient for the “very first time in a cosmetic formula”. What could it be?
Natura Bissé calls its revolutionary active PDGF-Remodeling Complex High Density Lift. Since this doesn’t really mean anything, I moved on to the next clue: a peptide going by the name of sh-polypeptide-59. It seems that sh-polypeptide is a synthetically produced human growth factor. I found them numbered 7, 28, 71 – and others, including sh-polypeptide-50 in a cream called Prolastil E-50, but never a 59. So perhaps that is what makes Natura Bissé High Density Lift unique.
Perhaps, but it doesn’t shed much light on whether High Density Lift deliver on the promise that it “restores the appearance of suppleness and a youthful volume”. There are some other ingredients though that have a credible track record, such as pea extract, an antioxidant and thiotic acid (also known as alpha lipoic acid), an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory that also boosts glutathione – a tripeptide that is also present in the formula.
High Density Lift majors on sodium hyaluronate in three different guises, which moisturize and will counteract the drying effects of the exfoliants, retionol and lactic acic. Natura Bissé has added in some hydrolyzed elastin and collagen. Personally, I’m not yet convinced that adding collagen creates collagen, ditto elastin. It seems to me that collagen boosting peptides and other actives are more likely to pull this off.
While I’m not really persuaded that Natura Bissé has really pulled off anything never before seen in cosmetics, there are some good ingredients here. The problem is that there aren’t really enough of them to justify the price tag. Which takes me back to my (admittedly weak) pun on fillers. By which I mean the synthetic emollients such as penetaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate and diisostearate, silicones, stabilizers such as octadecyl di-t-butyl-hydroxyhycinnamate.
I was surprised (and kind of amused) to find a spermicide, octoxynol-9, lurking amongst enough preservatives (including controversial parabens) to ensure that High Density Lift will have a shelf life of decades. I don’t really know why a spermicide should be here, but it does give this cream another role in your life should it disappoint as a facial filler.
Ingredients: Water, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl ethylhexnoate, glycerin, glyceryl stearate, penetaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate, propanediol, shea butter, pea extract, cetearyl alcohol, ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, distarch phosphate, mango seed butter, coco-caprylate, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed elastin, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, arginine, methylsilanol hydroxyproline, aspartate, sodium hyaluronate oligosaccharides, ascorbic acid, glutathione, thiotic acid, retinol, sh-polypeptide-59, allantoin, tocopherol, lactic acid, sodium lactate, serine, urea, cyclopetasiloxane, sodium polyacrylate, PEG-75 stearate, polyglyceryl-4, diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, sodium isostearate, ceteth-20, steareth-20, dimethiconol, ethylhexyglycerin, disodium EDTA, benzotriazoyl doceyl p-cresol, cyclodextrin, pentylene glycol, octadecyl di-t-butyl-hydroxyhycinnamate, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, sodium chloride, octoxynol-9, polysorbate 20, lecithin, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, chlorphenesin, methyparaben, salicylic acid, sodium methylparaben, propylparaben, fragrance, limonene, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, linalool, citronellol, cinnamyl alcohol, citral, benzyl benzoate.